83 vt750c clutch issue - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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83 vt750c clutch issue

Hello I done created a headache for myself taking my clutch apart to replace the friction plates. I reassembled it 6 times now and it's still not right. I'll shift in to every gear and the bike will just roll around as if it's in neutral! I know the friction plates I got are for this bike and I followed directions as the manual showed but I can not figure what's wrong. I'm curious if the clutch rod is supposed to be free and loose or of it supposed to have a bit tension to it when the clutch slave is bolted on. I'm getting ready to just bring it to a shop but thought I'd ask you guys first to save myself some money, Thanks!

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 06:14 AM
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Model: Vt750c
Year: 1983
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The last washer you install is slightly cupped. If you put it on backwards, this will happen.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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The last washer you install is slightly cupped. If you put it on backwards, this will happen.
That what I figured so i flipped it and the same thing happens! BTWot has a smaller washer as well and maybe I'm putting that one in the wrong spot? Thanks for the reply
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 08:40 AM
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Hey Trvalle94, I did the clutch on my 1983 VT750C last year, I thought I had some pictures but I can't seem to find them.

Suggestion, disconnect the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder, so there is no pressure on the clutch. Then see if the bike will roll in gear. If it won't roll, you clutch plates are working. If it does roll in gear, the plates are messed up. While you have the slave cylinder off, it's a good time to check it out and clean it if needed.

-andy
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 10:25 AM
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Did you remember the thermal washer that sits under the clutch slave. It's about 1/8" thick. Without it your slave will be pushing the clutch pushrod as soon as you tighten it down.

If it jams, force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AndyFromWI View Post
Hey Trvalle94, I did the clutch on my 1983 VT750C last year, I thought I had some pictures but I can't seem to find them.

Suggestion, disconnect the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder, so there is no pressure on the clutch. Then see if the bike will roll in gear. If it won't roll, you clutch plates are working. If it does roll in gear, the plates are messed up. While you have the slave cylinder off, it's a good time to check it out and clean it if needed.


I will try that out that you , the clutch rod does seem really stiff when the slave is bolted down

-andy
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Originally Posted by ShadowGeezer View Post
Did you remember the thermal washer that sits under the clutch slave. It's about 1/8" thick. Without it your slave will be pushing the clutch pushrod as soon as you tighten it down.
I don't think I put that back on, does it come off when I pull the slave off I do not remember a washer coming off with if on other thing connected to a bolt looked to be a bracket that held some wires next to it



Thank you
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AndyFromWI View Post
Hey Trvalle94, I did the clutch on my 1983 VT750C last year, I thought I had some pictures but I can't seem to find them.

Suggestion, disconnect the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder, so there is no pressure on the clutch. Then see if the bike will roll in gear. If it won't roll, you clutch plates are working. If it does roll in gear, the plates are messed up. While you have the slave cylinder off, it's a good time to check it out and clean it if needed.

-andy
I'll be sure to try that out thank you
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 06:27 PM
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Attached are pics of the "insulator" and the exploded view of the clutch slave. The insulator (thermal gasket) is about 1/8" thick and fits between the clutch slave and engine case/cover. Its purpose is to insulate the slave from engine heat, since if the clutch fluid gets too hot, it will lose its hydraulic "push" and you clutch won't release. If you forget to put it on, the slave piston mates up right against the pushrod and you lose 1/8" of slack, with the piston engaging the pushrod and releasing the clutch as soon as you tighten the slave down to the case. But, maybe yours doesn't have this. Just a thought. but that might be the problem if your test of loosening the slave allows the clutch to engage and the bike resists pushing.
Attached Thumbnails
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If it jams, force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ShadowGeezer View Post
Attached are pics of the "insulator" and the exploded view of the clutch slave. The insulator (thermal gasket) is about 1/8" thick and fits between the clutch slave and engine case/cover. Its purpose is to insulate the slave from engine heat, since if the clutch fluid gets too hot, it will lose its hydraulic "push" and you clutch won't release. If you forget to put it on, the slave piston mates up right against the pushrod and you lose 1/8" of slack, with the piston engaging the pushrod and releasing the clutch as soon as you tighten the slave down to the case. But, maybe yours doesn't have this. Just a thought. but that might be the problem if your test of loosening the slave allows the clutch to engage and the bike resists pushing.
Ya I checked my manual out and it does show I need the insulator. Never had it on I just ordered one. I'll be sure to throw that on right away thanks for the info this site is great! I could tell every time I mounted the slave the push rod would be engaged and be stiff on the clutch side. I'm sure that is the problem I'm having.

Again thank you
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowGeezer View Post
Attached are pics of the "insulator" and the exploded view of the clutch slave. The insulator (thermal gasket) is about 1/8" thick and fits between the clutch slave and engine case/cover. Its purpose is to insulate the slave from engine heat, since if the clutch fluid gets too hot, it will lose its hydraulic "push" and you clutch won't release. If you forget to put it on, the slave piston mates up right against the pushrod and you lose 1/8" of slack, with the piston engaging the pushrod and releasing the clutch as soon as you tighten the slave down to the case. But, maybe yours doesn't have this. Just a thought. but that might be the problem if your test of loosening the slave allows the clutch to engage and the bike resists pushing.
Ya I checked my manual out and it does show I need the insulator. Never had it on I just ordered one. I'll be sure to throw that on right away thanks for the info this site is great! I could tell every time I mounted the slave the push rod would be engaged and be stiff on the clutch side. I'm sure that is the problem I'm having.

Again thank you
Any other ideas why it would keep clicking back to neutral? Even with the slave off I can tell the clutch is messed up when I push the rod in it feels like it's all loose

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