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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-22-2007, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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clutch guru needed

Ok, the last couple months I have noticed that when I take off from a stop, I feel a heavy vibration as the clutch is "grabbing". Once the clutch is out completely, the vibration quits and everything seems fine.

Now, I have noticed the clutch slipping twice. Once when accelerating hard in first gear (riding solo), and once riding with a passenger taking off kind of hard on a steep incline.

My question is, should this be adjustable? Or would changing the springs help? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

1998 750 ACE with 18,000 miles.


1998 SHADOW A.C.E. 750 - billet mirrors, memphis fats, HD choke cover, 39t sprocket etc. etc. etc.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-22-2007, 09:49 PM
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When you say vibrations, would you call them a "chatter?"

If your clutch is chattering, you have one of two problems...

Either the plate material is worn more in one area of the clutch pack
than the other or one of the floater discs is warped.

If you are noticing your clutch slipping, it may have gotten hot and warped
a disc or glazed the material.


You might try adjusting some more free play in the clutch lever.
That would ensure that you aren't slipping the clutch due to mis-adjustment.

If it hasn't slipped a lot and caused any damage, it's possible to adjust it out.
IF it has warped a disc or glazed the clutch material, it's gonna be time for a replacement.

You haven't put any oil in it that's "energy conserving" have you?


Gasoline is for washing parts, Alcohol is for drinking... NITRO is for racing!
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-22-2007, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Hi litnin,

I wouldn't call it a chatter. To me chatter is more of a noise and there isn't really a noise that comes with this symptom. It feels to me like the clutch is grabbing and releasing very fast giving a sort of vibration feeling or maybe a shutter feeling. it feels like somebody is smacking the frame with a 40 lb. rubber mallet very fast.

I wish I could explain it better but I just don't have the mechanic vocabulary.

To be sure I am not confused, you are saying to make adjustments at the lever to ensure that I have more free play than what I have currently? And how much free play is way too much?

1998 SHADOW A.C.E. 750 - billet mirrors, memphis fats, HD choke cover, 39t sprocket etc. etc. etc.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 03:27 AM
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KD, unless a clutch is really bad it won't slip in first gear, it isn't untill it get into 3rd or higher that it slips because of the load, if I'm reading what you said about the 40# hammer you have something very wrong, like was stated warped plates can do that by trying to engage and then disengage and engage, another thing that will do it is a clutch basket that's grooved, not knowing how much you know about clutches I'll explain, the clutch basket is like a bowl with slots cut in the sides, the clutch plates have tabs on the outside and they fit into the cut outs, the disks are hooked to the engine by a splined hub so that they turn independent of the plates, when you let the clutch lever out the springs in the cover plate compress the clutch plates and contact is made and off you go, if for some reason the hub had gotten some hard use where the tabs make contact they can and will make indentations that will hold them in place untill enough pressure is applied to overcome the resistance caused by the indentations, this will make it jerk like you describe. It's not a big deal to pull the side cover and take a look, if you do this pull the clutch cover, clutch plates and disks, check the disks on a very flat surface like a piece of glass, they should be flat,,,,and that mean flat, no daylight between the plate and disk, do the same with the disks, be aware that the disks have very little material on them, there should be some open spaces in the material, if their gone or just about gone replace them, you can check the springs by putting them on a very flat surface and using a straight edge on the top of them see if there all the same height, if not replace them all, if it were me and I got into it that far I would just replace them. I hope some of the other suggestions cure it for you, I don't think adjusting the clutch is going to do it, if it's too tight it's to late, I beleive the book says 10mm or a little over 3/16th's

Good Luck KD

Ted
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.D.
Hi litnin,

I wouldn't call it a chatter. To me chatter is more of a noise and there isn't really a noise that comes with this symptom. It feels to me like the clutch is grabbing and releasing very fast giving a sort of vibration feeling or maybe a shutter feeling. it feels like somebody is smacking the frame with a 40 lb. rubber mallet very fast.

I wish I could explain it better but I just don't have the mechanic vocabulary.

To be sure I am not confused, you are saying to make adjustments at the lever to ensure that I have more free play than what I have currently? And how much free play is way too much?
Yep, that is what clutch chatter is... It's not really a noise, it's more of a
studder..

Yeah, you can make an adjustment at the lever (providing you're not hydraulic).
You should only have about 1/4" of free play or so...

Is this bike fairly new to you or have you had it since new?

Does the clutch cable feel hard? Usually, when the clutch gets worn
bad, it will drastically stiffen up the lever (harder to notice on hydraulic systems).

I was wondering about a previous owner and if someone has been in to it before... because there are springs inside called Judder springs.
If those are left out, worn, or not installed correctly, it will cause
the shudder (clutch chatter) like you are talking about.

If the case has never been cracked, more than likely, your clutch is
just needing replaced. It's a relatively easy task...
With a shop manual, you should be able to do it inside 2 hrs.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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I bought the bike earlier this year and I believe it had two owners before me. I made some adjustment to give it just a hair more freeplay but I still feel some of the chatter.

Can I wait until winter (to replace clutch) when I do a sprocket/chain mod or should it be fixed ASAP? Will leaving it for a couple months (maybe 2000 miles if i am lucky) hurt anything else?

1998 SHADOW A.C.E. 750 - billet mirrors, memphis fats, HD choke cover, 39t sprocket etc. etc. etc.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.D.
Can I wait until winter (to replace clutch) when I do a sprocket/chain mod or should it be fixed ASAP? Will leaving it for a couple months (maybe 2000 miles if i am lucky) hurt anything else?
Probably not, it might just be a little irritating.

You might want to change the oil a little more often than you normally do,
just to keep the shed clutch material disposed of as much as possible.

You'll know that the clutch is getting worse because the slipping will get
more and more pronounced and you should notice some stiffness in the lever. If you take it easy and not make real hard runs, you'd probably
be fine for a couple of thousand miles... even more.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, thanks a bunch for all the help just one last question... what is a good name brand for clutch parts? OK two questions, what about gaskets for the case?

1998 SHADOW A.C.E. 750 - billet mirrors, memphis fats, HD choke cover, 39t sprocket etc. etc. etc.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.D.
Alright, thanks a bunch for all the help just one last question... what is a good name brand for clutch parts? OK two questions, what about gaskets for the case?
I would go with the factory clutch pack assembly or the Barnett performance clutch pack set.
The Barnetts might be a little more stiff than the factory set, but both are
about the two best you can get.

On the gaskets, I doubt you can find any after market gasket sets, but
even if you could, I would stay with the factory gaskets.
I've never seen an after market set of gaskets that are as good as the factory ones.
Just make sure the case halves are good and clean and put them on without
silicone. Torque the bolts down per spec and you'll be fine.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 08:26 AM
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barnett

get the gasket from honda and go for the barnett performance kit. you will love it. a little stiff for the first thousand miles but your clutch will never slip again and you will get use to faster grab ...

if you are going to do all the work ... i say upgrade! I did and I am very glad.


Hammer: '95 ACE VT1100C2; Vance&Hines, DynoJets, iridiums plugs, K&N filter, Metz 880s, Cobra boards/bars/rack, saddleman seat, Kuryakin grips- pegs.
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