Oilology - Page 2 - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum
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post #11 of 360 (permalink) Old 08-31-2008, 10:57 PM
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When you empty the oil and before to put back the filter and the nuts, you can fill the motor with an extra sysntetic quart. When you see the new syntetic oil beggining to be out, then put back the nut and the filter and fill until the line.

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post #12 of 360 (permalink) Old 09-04-2008, 09:31 PM
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I use Shell Rotella synthectic 5w-40w in Indiana climate. This covers the cooler climate and cold starts very well on my ZR7. Have'nt used it in my Spirit as of yet but it is my choice until it proves differently. Besides having the highest "flash point" rating of most synthectics it also cost 17.00 a gallon at Walmart. Walmart Supertech ST6607 (2.5 in. lg.) or ST 7317 (3.25 in lg.) which fit my 2006 1100 Spirit are 2nd. only to Puralator PL14612(2.5 in. lg.), PL14610 (3.5 in. lg.). They cost under $3.00 to boot. Fram is considered by most as a "sub par" filter now days. Supertech has one of the best filtering media in their filters. I'm not a great fan of "China Walmart" but they do have the best prices on oil products etc. The "Oilology" info is a great and a accurate read for those who need to keep thier rides going down the road.





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post #13 of 360 (permalink) Old 10-15-2008, 05:58 PM
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MarkC,

Since you are the oil guru Id like to ask you a question ok two.

I put Mobil 1 synthetic in my bike at about 6,000 miles. I am coming up on 12,000 miles and want to jump on the Rotella T bandwagon.

Should I stick with the synthetic or would it be ok to go back to crude?

You have stated (I think) that you use it in your gasoline cars too so I was thinking of doing the same and making it a simple one oil garage. I got a 06 Taurus and 00 Neon.

Do you see a problem with that?

'05 Shadow Spirit 750 DC
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post #14 of 360 (permalink) Old 10-15-2008, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sk8er408
MarkC,

Since you are the oil guru Id like to ask you a question ok two.

I put Mobil 1 synthetic in my bike at about 6,000 miles. I am coming up on 12,000 miles and want to jump on the Rotella T bandwagon.

Should I stick with the synthetic or would it be ok to go back to crude?

You have stated (I think) that you use it in your gasoline cars too so I was thinking of doing the same and making it a simple one oil garage. I got a 06 Taurus and 00 Neon.

Do you see a problem with that?
Okay, lets start with the bike. Going from a synthetic oil back to a conventional isn't a problem at all! so your good there.

Now for the one oil for your cars and your bike, that's possible but we need to clear up a couple of things first.

Your car calls for an API approved Energy Conserving oil so the problem is if you use the Rotella-T oil in your car if it has any warranty left on it you may have a problem if "Something" was to happen to the engine they may not want to fix it.
Next problem is A lot of the newer cars are calling for very light weight oils like, 5W-20 if yours does then the Rotella is out of the game, the lightest weight it comes in is 10W-30 for the conventional oil and 5W-40 for the synthetic, in either case it would be the wrong viscosity oils.

Now! if the car is out of warranty and the manual list the use of a 5W-30 or a 10W-30 then your car would do VERY well with the Shell Rotella-T 10W-30 oil.
And if the manual for your bike list the use of a 10W-30 then you could use the one oil in both your car and your bike. If Honda recommends a 10W-40 for your bike then your best choice of the Rotella oil would be the 15W-40, but that would for sure be to heavy for your car.
I use the Rotella-T 10W-30 in both my cars, and the 15W-40 in my bike bike.
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post #15 of 360 (permalink) Old 12-05-2008, 06:01 PM
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Just about this note what you should lean the bike or something to get this last bit of oil out... I don't know about this, but I tried once to leave the oil drain overnight on top of the regular 30-40 minutes I would give it. Guess what - there have been about 1/2 a cup of oil there. I don't know if it really plays a big role, but...
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post #16 of 360 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 03:10 PM
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can i use this type of oil?

My buddy works at an oil shipping place. i let him know that i was doing an oil change soon. so being the good friend that he is he managed to get me some "damaged" oil. it's honda motorcycle oil. 10w-40 synthetic blend without moly. 4 stroke. the only real concern is that it says honda Racing. I am thinking that it's more for dirtbikes. can i oput this in my 05 VLX without any adverse affects? personaly i just wanted to put it in and see what happens but my brother talked me into asking before i do damage to my bike....he's the level headed one out of the two of us.
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post #17 of 360 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 02:24 PM
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WARNING on Purolator PureONE filters recommended by the

Quote:
Originally Posted by h13man
I use Shell Rotella synthectic 5w-40w in Indiana climate. This covers the cooler climate and cold starts very well on my ZR7. Have'nt used it in my Spirit as of yet but it is my choice until it proves differently. Besides having the highest "flash point" rating of most synthectics it also cost 17.00 a gallon at Walmart. Walmart Supertech ST6607 (2.5 in. lg.) or ST 7317 (3.25 in lg.) which fit my 2006 1100 Spirit are 2nd. only to Puralator PL14612(2.5 in. lg.), PL14610 (3.5 in. lg.). They cost under $3.00 to boot. Fram is considered by most as a "sub par" filter now days. Supertech has one of the best filtering media in their filters. I'm not a great fan of "China Walmart" but they do have the best prices on oil products etc. The "Oilology" info is a great and a accurate read for those who need to keep thier rides going down the road.
Here is what Purolator has to say about their filters recommended on that website as it pertains to motorcycles:

What About PureONE

If you're thinking you want to install a PureONE oil filter on your bike, please think again. PureONE oil filters are designed for vehicles, not bikes. Because of PureONE's high efficiency, the motorcycle oil pump may not be able to handle the pressure. The Purolator motorcycle filter line is designed to meet the specific needs of a bike; therefore we highly recommend the use of a Purolator ML filter over a PureONE oil filter.

Reference this link:
http://<br /> http://www.purolatora...lefilters.aspx

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post #18 of 360 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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I don't doubt your findings! but keep in mine that "ANY" company that produces a motorcycle specific line of items will NEVER recommend the use of their automotive counter part for a motorcycle application, NEVER! the specific line takes in WAY more money because of the little motorcycle on the box!
Many oil companies that at one time Did recommend their automotive oils for use in motorcycles, now don't, IF they offer a motorcycle line of motor oils! So more money is made in the specific line of items, even if they MAY??? only be automotive oils and filters repainted and put in a different package.

So, yes its up to EACH individual to decide for them selves what they choose to use.
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post #19 of 360 (permalink) Old 03-16-2009, 08:31 AM
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OK...much thanks for all the info...a great help.....but a few more questions??
First, I realize that you shouldn't run any oil with "friction reducers", etc. but how about the ones that claim they reduce sludge...same story??
Also, and I know this is a dumb one, but what oil filter wrench do you use....I am struggling tried the traditional...the one that fits like a "socket"...going for the over sized channel lock type next..the filter won't budge!!



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post #20 of 360 (permalink) Old 03-16-2009, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmbo
OK...much thanks for all the info...a great help.....but a few more questions??
First, I realize that you shouldn't run any oil with "friction reducers", etc. but how about the ones that claim they reduce sludge...same story??
Also, and I know this is a dumb one, but what oil filter wrench do you use....I am struggling tried the traditional...the one that fits like a "socket"...going for the over sized channel lock type next..the filter won't budge!!
Oils to stay away from are,

Energy Conserving oils (you'll find these in mainly automotive oils below the 10W-40 weight range)

The next oil to NOT USE! is the "High Mileage" oils, again you'll find these in the automotive line. These are the oils that are designed for car engines that are considered to have "High Mileage" on them, like 75,000 miles plus!. These oils have a pretty strange additive pack and have been known to really mess up a wet clutch system.

Anti-sludge, anti-deposit, ect.. are more about cleaning, and suspension (not letting deposits settle back out of the oil) and shouldn't be a problem at ALL!

From the sound of it you have a factory installed oil filter and to that I say "Good Luck"
An installed over tightened, non pre-oiled filter seal can be ONE MAJOR pain to remove with any filter wrench. You may have to totaly distory the filter to get it off!
A few people on the forum has went as far as laying the bike down on its side (Two People) in some soft grass (or other soft something) and then going after the oil filter,

Strap wrenches,
Large Channel Locks plairs,
Punching holes through the filter with a large screwdriver.
Ect...

With the bike on its side you may be able to put a band type oil filter wrench over the filter and slide it far enough down the filter to also put a socket type wrench over the end of the filter and use BOTH at the same time to break the filter free. also, if you do deside to lay the bike down on the the ground it would help if it was low on fuel.

When putting the new filter back on no NOT! use any wrench at all, put it on ONLY hand tight and be sure to pre-oil the filters seal!
MarkC

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