Honda Shadow Forums banner
21 - 40 of 41 Posts

· Registered
2002, Shadow Spirit 1100
Joined
·
3,201 Posts
To clarify, you have a nearly 25 year old bike with only 6,000 miles on it? Abd it’s jumping gears? Something seems off here.
I agree. That is low mileage for a bike to jump out of gear like the cogs are worn. Bad shifting habits by an unskilled person could possibly wear the cogs wrong during breakin to where the cogs slide off dropping a gear.
I still don't think the tranny should wear that quickly unless something broke.

If oil not rated for a motorcycle was used you could be getting clutch slippage and not be really losing a gear.
I used non-motorcycle oil in my bikes for years and really didn't have much of an issue. I never changed the clutches for slipping. If the clutches slipped I added a few ounces of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer and the clutches grabbed just fine. You need to verify if the clutches are slipping or you have a transmission mechanical issue. If the clutches are slipping I would dump the oil, run diesel through it. Put the same quantity of diesel as your oil quantity. Run the bike for about 2 minutes. Kill your engine and drain the diesel out. Let the bike sit overnight with the drainplug out so all of the diesel drips out. Put your drain bolt back in, a new oil filter and new Motorcycle rated oil in the bike in the morning. I would add about 4 ounces of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer to help those clutches.

Let us know what you find out.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,278 Posts
Ok… I couldn’t connect it! That’s mom with her custom ‘74 Super. We’ve had about 5 or 6 of those, from the 6-V ‘65 to a few ‘74 super beetles. Sure with id have kept them 20/20!
I have a 61 with shortened pan and fiberglass buggy body, not running yet,,, Had a street legal rail buggy for 21 years
 
  • Like
Reactions: DryDiver

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
So rode it yesterday for a while. Still jumps out, unless I hold my foot on the shifter and keep pressure in the direction necessary to counter the jumping. When I “hold it” in gear like this it’s fine. Does that help narrow the problem down?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
917 Posts
Years ago, I mean Decades ago, some guys were buying a few garden hose rubber washers. Stacking them together, then sliding the stack between the shifter and case. This kept the shifter where it operated without problems. Some gave the side that contacted the shifter a light coat of grease to prevent binding, and moving of the the washers.
I suppose it`s worth a try. Should cost more then a buck or so. You have to make a slit in each one so you can slide the stack over the spindle. I`d 3-5 should do it.
'

'
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Yeah
Years ago, I mean Decades ago, some guys were buying a few garden hose rubber washers. Stacking them together, then sliding the stack between the shifter and case. This kept the shifter where it operated without problems. Some gave the side that contacted the shifter a light coat of grease to prevent binding, and moving of the the washers.
I suppose it`s worth a try. Should cost more then a buck or so. You have to make a slit in each one so you can slide the stack over the spindle. I`d 3-5 should do it.
'

'
I see where you’re going with this. Wouldn’t I want the shifter to bind with the casing to help hold it in place, like I said I had done with my foot, or am I not looking at this the way you intended?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I have a 61 with shortened pan and fiberglass buggy body, not running yet,,, Had a street legal rail buggy for 21 years
I wish I could come across one that wasn’t outlandishly expensive. It only took a small toolbox, some duct tape and baling wire and you’re all set!
I used to pass the 4 wheel drives in the snow and kinda snicker as I was throwing a tail!
 

· Registered
2003 ACE 750CD, 1998 ACE Tourer
Joined
·
234 Posts
Yeah

I see where you’re going with this. Wouldn’t I want the shifter to bind with the casing to help hold it in place, like I said I had done with my foot, or am I not looking at this the way you intended?
Just wait. I had similar problems but not as severe on both my bikes. Low km 2003 ace vt750 and high km 98 vt1100 ace tourer. Bought both last year. They were popping out now and again cause it felt like they weren’t engaging fully. Both had the same thing in common - really really really neglected oil changes. And bring not run much in a year or more like yours. Sludge city. On both I went through a number of changes and types of oil. Always motorcycle oil. Within less than 1000 miles.

The first in the 750 Was rotella t4. 15-40. Made it worse and I could tell the clutch and engine didn’t like it at all. I put sea foam in the crankcase and rode it for 200 km. Drained and Put in Honda gn4 and new filter too - much better. After a 1000 km I noticed the shifting was getting bad again. Drained and it was too sludgy for the km Put in amsoil synthetic. Nothing to note until about 50km into a ride then bam. The engine was smooth as heck. But the shifting was better too. Not as good as my vt1100t

On that I went through three oil changes of Castrol go! 10-40.Within 1000km. Hard shifting and some popping out. I put in a few ounces of atf for wet clutches. When i checked my oil after that change only 50 km into it it was very black. So I put in liqui moly engine flush shot safe for wet clutches when the engine was hot. Let it run for 15 minutes in the garage. Drained the oil and wow. What crap came out was shocking. I changed the stator, popped in the same castrol go! And the shifting is orgasmic. Smooth, super quiet and positive. Way better than my low km 750 even. Engine smooth and quiet too

the 750 is getting that treatment end of next season latest. I will be changing the oil on both as soon as I get a hint of shifting changes from now on. It’s my indicator from now on.

I would 100% not disregard the oil factor just yet It’s cheop safe abd non invasive to do as first steps.

Ps. When you are riding with your foot holding the shifter down, do you feel thumping on your foot trying to disengage from the gear?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,169 Posts
So rode it yesterday for a while. Still jumps out, unless I hold my foot on the shifter and keep pressure in the direction necessary to counter the jumping. When I “hold it” in gear like this it’s fine. Does that help narrow the problem down?
Yes, for me it does. Rode it for awhile means 1 thru 5 needs no pressure to hold it in gear. It means the shift linkage [in or out] does not effect the 1 thru 5. My guess is 3rd needs for sure both intersect of those 2 gears, a fork for sure, and an inspection of the drum at each peak in the trough. Fresh roller washer(s), or the larger one.

-EDIT-
With New's post I would wait. If you said you bought it and no issues with all the miles you put on it, the oil change becomes the variable. Get it? But I'd short shift from 2nd to 4th. I don't want any load on the forks needing it forced to say by pressure...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Just wait. I had similar problems but not as severe on both my bikes. Low km 2003 ace vt750 and high km 98 vt1100 ace tourer. Bought both last year. They were popping out now and again cause it felt like they weren’t engaging fully. Both had the same thing in common - really really really neglected oil changes. And bring not run much in a year or more like yours. Sludge city. On both I went through a number of changes and types of oil. Always motorcycle oil. Within less than 1000 miles.

The first in the 750 Was rotella t4. 15-40. Made it worse and I could tell the clutch and engine didn’t like it at all. I put sea foam in the crankcase and rode it for 200 km. Drained and Put in Honda gn4 and new filter too - much better. After a 1000 km I noticed the shifting was getting bad again. Drained and it was too sludgy for the km Put in amsoil synthetic. Nothing to note until about 50km into a ride then bam. The engine was smooth as heck. But the shifting was better too. Not as good as my vt1100t

On that I went through three oil changes of Castrol go! 10-40.Within 1000km. Hard shifting and some popping out. I put in a few ounces of atf for wet clutches. When i checked my oil after that change only 50 km into it it was very black. So I put in liqui moly engine flush shot safe for wet clutches when the engine was hot. Let it run for 15 minutes in the garage. Drained the oil and wow. What crap came out was shocking. I changed the stator, popped in the same castrol go! And the shifting is orgasmic. Smooth, super quiet and positive. Way better than my low km 750 even. Engine smooth and quiet too

the 750 is getting that treatment end of next season latest. I will be changing the oil on both as soon as I get a hint of shifting changes from now on. It’s my indicator from now on.

I would 100% not disregard the oil factor just yet It’s cheop safe abd non invasive to do as first steps.

Ps. When you are riding with your foot holding the shifter down, do you feel thumping on your foot trying to disengage from the gear?
Thank you for the news! No I don’t have a feeling of trying to kick out when holding my foot on shifter. The other significant factor I think may be that it’s just “slushy” in between 1st, neutral, and second gear. Sitting still and not running I can just easily run between these gears with my hand. Not normal at all! You know how ya gotta kinda rock it back and forth a little normally to change from one to another, nope not anymore with my bike as is.
 

· Registered
2003 ACE 750CD, 1998 ACE Tourer
Joined
·
234 Posts
Thank you for the news! No I don’t have a feeling of trying to kick out when holding my foot on shifter. The other significant factor I think may be that it’s just “slushy” in between 1st, neutral, and second gear. Sitting still and not running I can just easily run between these gears with my hand. Not normal at all! You know how ya gotta kinda rock it back and forth a little normally to change from one to another, nope not anymore with my bike as is.
Y’a. I was having trouble with first neutral and second too.I would still recommend my treatment. If you need to know what atf is safe I’ll take a picture. I researched it. It’s compatible with older wet clutch transmissions. The only thing I’m thinking is there may be enough build up in the transmission of gunk that the engagement isn’t tight or sure.
Although mine was not nearly bad as you describe, I had to stomp on the gears hard to engage. Was worried I was going to bend something. Thought fir sure my trans was bad. After this it’s the best thing in my bike. What could the atf flush have done? I feel it’s the safest way to flush too.

i would do it until things run clear. A couple of changes anyway. It’s cheap safe first step. Old bikes get gummed up weird. Not good.

let us know how it went!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
The shifter started rattling a little, I thought it might be loose and didn’t look at it for a few days. Then it jumped out of 3rd I believe it was. Not I can’t ride, it won’t stay in gear. Bike has 6,xxx miles on it. I bought it 2 years ago, changed the oil and saw it called for 10w-40 but didn’t know the other qualifying oil it required. I don’t know if one has anything to do with the other or not.
Every time would be gear dogs worn or bent shift forks possibly. Cant see the dogs being worn if that's original miles.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
917 Posts
I see where you’re going with this. Wouldn’t I want the shifter to bind with the casing to help hold it in place, like I said I had done with my foot, or am I not looking at this the way you intended?
A few Garden Hose Washers would not "bind" the shifter. It will just provide some slight outward pressure, keeping the shifter spindle in place. I would give it a try.
'


PS
OK I found some old posts on this. The outside washer would be a nylon washer. Followed by 2-3 rubber garden hose washers. The shifter spindle will not bind in anyway rubbing on the outside Nylon Washer.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
So a new factor has been introduced to the equation. I rode about a hundred miles yesterday while lightly holding in gear which seemed to work well, then got on it some a noticed for the first time the clutch slipped. Tried it a few more times, yep it slipped. So I pulled over and put about a third of a can of Seafoam in the oil, gonna ride it another hundred miles or so then change the oil and go the route Newfiend mentioned, and maybe add a tad bit of the atf mentioned above (yeah shoot me a pic if ya don’t mind). Hopefully the combination will work out any sludge and get me back to my feet on the highway bars!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Y’a. I was having trouble with first neutral and second too.I would still recommend my treatment. If you need to know what atf is safe I’ll take a picture. I researched it. It’s compatible with older wet clutch transmissions. The only thing I’m thinking is there may be enough build up in the transmission of gunk that the engagement isn’t tight or sure.
Although mine was not nearly bad as you describe, I had to stomp on the gears hard to engage. Was worried I was going to bend something. Thought fir sure my trans was bad. After this it’s the best thing in my bike. What could the atf flush have done? I feel it’s the safest way to flush too.

i would do it until things run clear. A couple of changes anyway. It’s cheap safe first step. Old bikes get gummed up weird. Not good.

let us know how it went!
Yeah I’m gonna give it a shot. Like y’all have said it’s a good, cheap place to start. Will keep ya posted!
 
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Top