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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone dealt with a fuel cutout relay showing as bad due to continuity checks and have the same indications after the $80 swap? Can I safely bypass this thing for good? I swapped both the relay and fuel pump(welded point set and none available...go figure). I have it back together, the pump works fine when I jump the relay connection, but I get nothing with the relay installed. Help!
 

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Well, a relay makes an internal connection once power is applied. So, the question is...does it ever get power and does it close? Do you have a multimeter? I've said it a few times here, that you really can't shotgun electrical problems. You need a tech manual with wiring diagrams. To test the relay itself you should be able to do that with it not connected and use a battery to apply 12v to it (make sure it's a 12v relay first). If it closes a multimeter will read continuity. If it doesn't close it is bad. You do not want to permanently bypass it because if you have an accident (where a fuel line is cut, burnt, or disconnected) the fuel pump could potentially keep running and therefore turn a bad scene into a nightmare. It's a safety device.
 

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Got a manual?
There MAY be one to download in the sticky???

Does that one work off the Pulse from the pulse generator???
Just curious???
 

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I also doubt that the relay is faulty.. but you need more than a manual, you also need an understanding of electricity..

Don't try to bypass the relay, measure the voltage across the coil, the fault could be something as simple as an open circuit fuse or a corroded wire.. I suspect that your local repair shop may have fixed this fault for less than the $80 you have already spent.

John.
 

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If you have to bypass the relay you can, it won't hurt anything. The relay is just a safety device. True that could turn bad in an accident but for enough damage to occur that the pump is pumping fuel out of a broken line, you're gonna have leaks in other spots anyways. Thats the way I look at it.
 

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This^^^

Many motorcycles use a tip sensor instead of the cut off relay as a safety. This results in the pump being energized any time the ignition is in the run position....unless the scooter is laying on its side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. I have the Honda manual and was performing the tests that it called out. Which is one reason I took the relay in to my local Honda shop. I was told they need the bike, not just the relay. The manual didn't speak at all about the third lead, which goes to the ICM and the front coil. If that is a determining factor in it's operation, you'd think the factory manual would have mentioned it. I believe I've read your post about bypassing before, Spool. I get that the relay is a safety device, but I'm starting to wonder...
 
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