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Discussion Starter #1
hello, i just bought a 1984 honda vt700 a week ago when i bought it it was running and shifting fine, on my way transporting it i think something happened, when i took the bike off the van i noticed the oil bolt connecting the clutch cable to the reservoir came loose and the clutch flued was leaking from the reservoir. i then sat it down turned the ignition key the bike started fine and was idlingin neutral fine but when i went to put it into first gear it jumped and just turned of, i did this again and same thing , seems like the clutch was not engaging since the clutch lever was soft and spoongy and had little resistance, so the next day i read the manual and performed the clutch fluid replacement and air bleeding but the same thing happened and the clutch lever is still spongy. this cannot be a serious thing seeing the bike was running fine until the oil bolt came loose. maybe i need to re - bleed the clutch again to see if there is still air bubbles in there. can someone please advise, i also thought of one other thing i removed the oil bolt and found the bolt has a hole that pierces thru and thru does this mean the bolt when conneted to the reservior has to be positioned a specific way so the hole in the oil bolt helps the flow of the clutch fluid. i know this is not a big problem if anyone can help ill be much abliged.

thank you....
 

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We call that oil bolt a "banjo bolt". Don't worry about the hole placement, just rotate it to result in the least stress on the hose.

Now, about bleeding the clutch. If you do a search you'll find that a lot of people have trouble with it. Some experienced mechanics have even given up trying to manually bleed it, and use a vacuum pump.

It can be done manually -- here's how:
Put the bike on the center stand and rotate the handle bar to level out the clutch fluid reservoir as much as possible.
Bleed the system in the conventional manner at first. The manual warns not to squeeze the handle all the way - leave about a 3/4" gap, to prevent the "piston overtravel."
At this point, you still won't feel much pressure when you squeeze the clutch handle. Now you have to bleed the banjo bolts.
Squeeze the clutch handle, loosen the banjo just enough to let the air & fluid escape, then tighten it back up before releasing the clutch handle. Do this to both the upper and lower banjos.
That should do the trick. If it doesn't, do it all again. Eventually, you'll get it.
Keep in mind though, that you're still going to feel a clunk as you put the bike into first gear. That's just the way these bikes are. However, it shouldn't kill the engine, or even slow it down.
By the way, when bleeding the banjos, use rags to keep the fluid from getting on your bike -- it can ruin the paint.
 

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Yup Scotterhodes13 beat me to it. I found out the hard way when I tried to bleed the clutch on one of those bikes. I rebuilt one of those for my brother-in-law and had a **** of a time trying to get the air out of the line. Only to find there's just a small amount that gets trapped just outside the master cylinder by the banjo bolt. After bleeding that off, I had a perfect disengaging clutch!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok thanks but can you give me a step by step directions as to how to do this, and you mentioned to do this to both upper and lower banjo /oil bolts...do you mean the banjo /oil bolt located on the reservoir as well as the banjo /oil bolt located on the slave cylinder?

so let me know if im correct with my steps...

1. stand bike up on center stand and make sure reservoir is level/parallel with ground.
2. connect bleed hose to the bleed valve.
3. loosen the bleed valve on slave cylinder then pump the clutch lever until no fluid is
flowing out of the bleed valve.
4. close the bleed valve fill the reservoir and install the diaphragm.

now my question is where do i impliment the bleeding of the banjo/oil bolts on the upper and lower part of the clutch hose.
 

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3. loosen the bleed valve on slave cylinder then pump the clutch lever until no fluid is
flowing out of the bleed valve.

now my question is where do i impliment the bleeding of the banjo/oil bolts on the upper and lower part of the clutch hose.
Steps 1 through 4 are good, except Step 3 -- bleed until no AIR is flowing out of the bleed valve.

Then bleed the banjos.

Check the reservoir continuously during the process and when you're all done. If it goes dry, you'll have to start all over.

To bleed the banjos, you just loosen the bolt a bit while holding pressure on the clutch handle, and let the fluid and air leak out. There's no other way. You might have to do it two or three times. Just be careful to crack the banjo bolt loose and quickly retighten it before releasing the clutch handle so that no air gets in. Also be careful not to let the fluid get on your paint.
 

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Markus, when I bled mine I did as you wrote it, then I bled both banjo bolts starting on the lower one, then I bled the top one last. Not sure if it makes a difference either way, all I know is my clutch works now, and it didn't before I bled the banjo bolts. Make double sure you wrap rags around the bolts before you open them and bleed them. brake fluid will ruin your paint and any plastic parts it comes in contact with. Let us know how things work out.
 

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I used a hand operated vacuum gun with a brake bleeder attachment on it, I had a working clutch in under five minutes, but you have to keep an eye on the reservoir as it displaces a lot of fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks guys for all your suggestions, i did it...yeah...it was air iin the top oil bolt, and it took anly 10 mins, now i have my headlight to get working,

now i have another problem, my headlight dose'nt seem to be working, i bought the new bulb , took the old one out but realized it did nt seem blown so i replaced it anyway but the new one did nt work either, the funny thing is the front and rear blinkers work, the horn works the rear brake light works, what could be the problem. i push the high and low beam button , nothing the high beam light dosent come on the indicators when you turn the bike bike on, i also examined the wires too but didnt see anything odd except i saw one orange wire loose , was not fitted into any socket jus open. can some one guide me as to how i get this headlight to work.

thanks
 

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Are you sure that loose wire is orange? Orange is for the left turn signal. There should be a loose brown wire though. Honda put it there in case you want to add an accessory.

Now the headlight - It's on it's own fuse, so check that first. While you have the fuse box open, check that you have power to the headlight fuse (with the ignition on). From the fuse box, power runs to the starter switch, so it can be cut off when starting. So you could have a problem in the starter switch. The switch is pretty easy to take apart and clean -- just be careful when you take it apart as the springs and contacts will fall out. After the starter switch, the power for the headlight runs to the dimmer switch. I've never had that switch apart, but it's probably easy to clean also. You can at least check to see if it's power makes it that far. Finally, (or maybe I should say check this first) check the ground from the headlight. I can't remember if the high-beam light normally comes on when you turn on the ignition.
From time to time, people post links to sites where you can download a manual. You might do a search to see if you can find one of those posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok thanks, now where is the fuse box? and in the headlight harness there is a single fuse, whats that fuse for?it seems to come with a spare dont know how long they have been in there , they are 20w , i was told it should be 10w is that correct, ok that wire i will check again could have been brown instead of orange.

thank you again...
 

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To get to your fuses, remove the chrome cover that's on the housing with the indicator lights.
I'm not sure about that single fuse in the headlight bucket. My schematic seems to indicate that it goes to the radiator fan, but several people have found that the bike won't run at all if the fuse is blown.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Tactometer sometimes work how do i fix it permanently

good day to you all and thanks for everyones help with the clutch totally was banjo bolt, now i have a small problem, the tochtometer does not move sometimes when i turn on the bike and rev throttle when in neutral the needle dosent move, also the 84 vt700 has water cooled tand i notice when i turn bike on the temp needle goes pass the red zone, note that bike runs fine and coolant is full. now how can i track down that problem and is running the bike without fixing this problem will ruin the engine? i have ridden the bike alot since the warm weather and everyday it starts up and runs fine everytime, i was just wondering if anyone had this problem with their tachtometer and do you know how to go about fixing it.

thanks
markus
 

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The tachometer -- search the forum here - there is a recent thread on how to take apart the tachometer and resolder the connections. Before you do that though, you might want to look for a broken wire or loose connection.

The temperature gauge -- if it immediately goes to the red zone you've probably got a bad temperature sensor. It's located on the thermostat housing. If the bike warms up and then goes to the red zone, check whether the radiator fan comes on. If not, either the temperature sensor on your radiator is not working or the fan is not. There's a fuse in the headlight bucket that I think goes to the fan. Check that first.
 

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Do you have a manual, if not its time you got one. I'd say that something got knocked loose in all the bumbling and fiddling you have been doing over the course of this thread. Retrace your steps, check all connections and wires, in the areas you have been working. Start at the last thing you did.
 
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