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Discussion Starter #1
The site has been helpful. Once you get passed fruatrations and liaten to any help other riders provide. Got my bike to fire up. After swapping the engine, going to a 750 from removing the blown 700. Getting the wires and small pieces the bike needs. Replacing the bad rectifier new battery. I'm excited to take it out for a ride. Minor details now, like the license plate light/mounting. Needs another tachometer/temp gauge, fan doesnt cycle, unless i short out the temp sender to run all the time when the key is on. Ill get her ready for next season. Pics will be posted in my album.

First bike I've actually had to completely put back together. Still excited and stoked to take it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
That was before. A lot of scrounging at the boneyard in salt lake city, since i have come across a lot of discontinued parts. Also read on the forums here that most parts have been discontinued. Anyways here it is now. Im still excited to ride it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Took her out for a good 10 miles last night. Runs fantastic. 2nd gear likes to buck occasionally, just cant goose the throttle, have to kind of ease into it. Havent fully opened it up yet. Purring like a dream
 

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it is so fun to ride !!-

especially after figuring out the different issues and fixing them yourself-
congrats to you
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate it. Went for a good 10 mile run and the battery quit. Already had it warrantied, brand new battery. Rectifier is hard wired, no connector. 2 batteries within 2 months. The battery is being charged and double checked again. At this point i am probably going to get another battery from somewhere else besides o'reilly/checker. Any recommendations? I know its a johnson control battery thays been in there for a week. Maybe try the local motorcycle shop for a new battery?
 

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I appreciate it. Went for a good 10 mile run and the battery quit. Already had it warrantied, brand new battery. Rectifier is hard wired, no connector. 2 batteries within 2 months. The battery is being charged and double checked again. At this point i am probably going to get another battery from somewhere else besides o'reilly/checker. Any recommendations? I know its a johnson control battery thays been in there for a week. Maybe try the local motorcycle shop for a new battery?
So you're in Salt Lake I take it. So are we. Wright's or Cycle Gear is about it for a battery other than the auto parts stores. I've always felt Wright's is a little pricey. I like Cycle Gear but you would most likely need to have it shipped with them. You did test both the stator and rectifier before hard wiring?

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1983 VT500C
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Took her out for a good 10 miles last night. Runs fantastic. 2nd gear likes to buck occasionally, just cant goose the throttle, have to kind of ease into it. Havent fully opened it up yet. Purring like a dream
Check to make sure all your tank hoses are correct and NEW...
mine also lagged a little in second around 1400 rpms...
better when all the hoses got replaced and secured with clamps.
Especially the vaccuum hose leading to the carb ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
New hoses. Already did that when i was putting the bike back together. Doesnt lag, its like the clutch is slipping and grabbing. Went for another ride today. I got the battery back from oreilly, bike fired right up no problem. Went for about 5 miles and stayed close to home. When i got back, killed it and tried to restart. I watched the volts go from 13.5 initial, to 12.5 cranking down to 11.1 and then 8 v even to jump back up to 11.9. All while cranking. Wonder if my rectifier has an intermittent short. It was hot.

Just got back from doing some errands and changed my rectifier. Battery is sitting around 12.8. After firing up, seems to start better it jumps to 13.6 then drops back down to 13.8-13.0. At 2500 rpm seems to go to 14.3 and anything higher seems to top out at 14.6. Waiting for the bike to cool and refire. See if its doing any better. I feel like a doctor now. Im a mechanic by trade, but this bike is my baby...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright, been riding the bike to and from work. Havent had a hiccup until today. Stopped at 7-11. Spent about 10 min inside. She wouldnt fire up. Glad the 7-11 is right around the corner from my work. Pushed her there and yanked the battery out. Put it on the 2 amp trickle charger and left it there. Initial read was 60% when i hooked it up. 12.47v i think.

Anyways got off work and put it in the bike and she fired up. As expected. 100% charge and 13v. Jammed my multi tester in the battery and took off riding with it attached. Readings were normal at first. When i took off the readings jumped to 14.3 guess thats to be expected. Hopped on the freeway went to 14.8 and then 14.93. Got off the freeway and hit a red light and the readings tipped at 15-15.1. Im thinking its the stator. Have to go back through and do some testing. Any help here is really appreciated guys.
 

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2001 Valkyrie I/S
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Did you put on a new r/r or a used one, sounds like your battery is being over charged at 15 v. Should check your grounds also as that's how the r/r works it shunts excessive power to ground.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Used one that tested good over a week ago, because the one that was on there wasnt charging. Battery dropped to 8v while cranking. Ill definitely be double checking that this weekend. The R/R and stator. There is something going on. Time to open the manual and try to decipher it. Im leaving her parked until i can fix her.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Been perusing the forums as well, looking to other people that have had similar problems, or the same problem.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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My 83 750 was charging up to the 15 volt range also and the battery was getting tired. I put in another AGM battery and it is more in the 14.5 range again. I have the original regulator. Still not sure if the older battery was the cause of the higher voltage or the high voltage wore out the battery. But it was a cheap Battery Sharks battery 2 years old, so who knows. Add a 10 gauge ground wire to the regular case and see if that helps.
 
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Discussion Starter #15

Followed the diagnostic in this thread from litnin. Great help. Figured it out to be a bad rectifier. Thanks for the help, and no need for starting a new thread, when someone else has had a similar issue.
 

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Yea, litnin, definitely knew what he was doing. Hasn't been around for years though.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thinking about it, stator output was a little high. The three yellow wires had .8, nothing shorted to ground. When i revved the bike vac went up 1.5. Yet when i had the output at 15 - 15.1 the battery never got hot or boiled over.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Still convinced the rectifier is to blame. Checked continuity between the 3 stator wires .5, nothing to ground. Ohm meter didnt show a reading between stator wires and ground. Infinite loop. So stator should be good. So to changed the rectifier and try this again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So you're in Salt Lake I take it. So are we. Wright's or Cycle Gear is about it for a battery other than the auto parts stores. I've always felt Wright's is a little pricey. I like Cycle Gear but you would most likely need to have it shipped with them. You did test both the stator and rectifier before hard wiring?

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Yes im in Salt Lake. Most of the time im at Bill's on Saturday hunting for parts for the bike. Or trading in parts ive bought that have tested out junk. Exchange ok, no refunds. Bills been great with that and fair about his prices. Picked up the clymer manual from Wright's and had a tube installed in the front tire from Cycle House. The following week I ripped the tube back out and resealed the tire, since there was a leak in the tube. I still have it. Right now the bike is running great, took my wife around the neighborhood on Labor Day. Its her first time on a bike. I will be taking the choke cables to wrights for a repair. It broke. So this weekend i will pull them out and deliver them, since bill said they can repair/build a new set for the bike, since only the cable is broken and i have all the parts.
 

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Thinking about it, stator output was a little high. The three yellow wires had .8, nothing shorted to ground. When i revved the bike vac went up 1.5. Yet when i had the output at 15 - 15.1 the battery never got hot or boiled over.

Stator vac goes up to 70+ vac reving the throttle on any pair of yellow wires. That's ac. All pairs of wires should increase to the same voltage and at a similar rate. Well, approximately. Testing output vrs continuity are different tests. The output test should reveal continuity issues though. Did rolling on the throttle raise the vac equally on all combinations of yellow wires?
 
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