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Discussion Starter #241
Took her out today, didnt make it around a block, down the road and back, front brakes locked up and I ended up dumping her, coming into a parking lot. At least i was close to home. My father ran out with the tools, disconnected the calipers and I rode her home. Time to go through the front brake system
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Check the brake master cylinder return port. It is very tiny and can get clogged and hold pressure in the lines. Mine was doing that when I got my bike from a friend. That's when I learned about that port. Soak the fluid up with a rag and clean the hole with a sewing needle since it is so tiny. Refill with new fluid and you shouldn't have to bleed the brakes that way.
Picture from my clutch master but brake is very similar=
 

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Discussion Starter #243
I did just that. Actually pulled the master off the bike and cleaned it up thoroughly. Brake fluid looked like honey, got that all drained and cleaned up/flushed out. Just have to bleed the air out now. Figured to let it settle so the air rises to the master cylinder and I can bleed from that banjo bolt. Looked like there was some rust around the return hole. Cleaned it up as best i could with a tiny bread twist, stripped the plastic back and ran the wire through the hole several times, twisting as I went.
 

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Good, that little port sure can cause issues.
When I bled mine I noticed the manual says to put a stop block 3/4 inch thick so the lever doesn't come all the way back to the bars, Sounds strange, but I did that.
 

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Discussion Starter #245
Yup, that's what it said in the clymer manual. Glad I flushed the front brakes. They're back to 100% functionality. Great pad life left too. Local salvage yard didnt have the correct rear tire. Bunch of front ones thay say harley davidson on them. But the front tire is fine. Just keeping an eye out for a rear tire out there, or just have to go get one brand new from the parts store here in town, with a "free" mount and balance...
 

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So what was the problem with the 750?
 

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Discussion Starter #247
Havent stripped it down yet. The current problem is idle was erratic, would fire up and idle fine. Next fire up it would idle around 3000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #248
288547

Thinking about putting the last 2 green pods in front of the tire and silicone them to the frame. Help "light" things up
 

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Discussion Starter #249
Fork seals are now done. The oil was nasty. Black and rank. Like when an A/C compressor grenades internally. The black death, something like that... motorcycle store looked it up, and said to run a 7 or 8 according to looking it up. But I could safely run 10. So I did that
 

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Discussion Starter #250
Got a set of new brake master and clutch master in today. The front brakes just quit working. Wouldn't pump up anymore, plus leaked onto the tank. Cheaper as a set off evilbay. I think they look better than the stock ones, even though they're for a different Honda.
289280
289281
289282
 

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Looks Great. Were those new or used parts? And for what model?
 

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Discussion Starter #252 (Edited)
Brand new. Ad said it was for a magna or nighthawk. Front brakes are fully functional again. Didnt take much bleeding for the clutch and came with the switches. Already to ride. Plug and play with bleeding the fluid.

Comes as a set of them, not individual when you order
 

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Lookin good! I just replaced the masters for both brake and clutch as well. The original ones on the bike were just to gunked up and Leaking everywhere. You went the best route.
 

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Good, that little port sure can cause issues.
When I bled mine I noticed the manual says to put a stop block 3/4 inch thick so the lever doesn't come all the way back to the bars, Sounds strange, but I did that.
LOL! My father and I were deep-cleaning the clutch master last week when I read that. AFTER we spent several minutes watching the piston over-extend! We eventually got it to push fluid through, so I think we got lucky. I believe what happens is the piston over-extending could cause the rubber seal on it to ‘flip’ the wrong way, and no longer seal. By working it around, I think mine just happened to re-seat itself the right way.
 

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Discussion Starter #255
Glad it worked out for you. As for mine, a week ago I rode home from work, everything seemed to be OK. Minor leak on the tank, said to myself I will fix that after ordering the rebuild kit. It was leaking from the plunger seal. Went to ride the next day and I had no front brakes. I bled and bled didn't get any air out of the system, just fluid. Figured it was time for the rebuild kit. The kit I looked up ended up being the same price for the new masters. Figured the better option was new masters. I already did a kit on the calipers, after they locked up on me and I went down. Cleaned the calipers out completely, new seals and I used some brake fluid as lube to install the pistons and get everything back together. Didnt use any WD40 or lube of similar viscosity to install the pistons in the calipers. Everything seems to be good now.
 

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Discussion Starter #258
Had to readjust the carbs. Pilot jets were 1/2 turn out too far. Didnt want to restart when hot. Had to WOT to restart. Seems to be doing good now. Have a crash bar for a different bike I am going to custom modify for my shadow, and then place it in front of the radiator, attached to the frame
 

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We used my vacuum bleeder to flush fluid through the line, then finished up with a standard bleed. For some reason, the clutch pack was still ‘sticking’, again until we stopped the rear rim with a broomstick... Then the clutch worked perfectly. This scares me. ;)

We then slapped on the two ‘weenie’ mufflers from the parts bike, and it fired up fairly quickly! Lots of seeds flying out the exhausts like shotgun pellets, though. It sounded like it was running great, if a bit rich! But the oil leaks... Seeping from the valve cover gaskets of both cylinders... I really don’t want to remove the engine again, or I could just run it like a ‘70s Harley. Built-in anti-rust system...
 
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