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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All, I'm a newb to Honda's, having previously owned a Suzuki Savage (LS650) bobber. I recently had a friend of mine give me his 86 honda shadow 700, stating that if I could get it running, it was mine. Thus far, I've put the tender on it and the battery has been charged. The tank was removed and I'm in the process of trying to work my way through getting it back up and running, which will be process. One of the things I can't find anywhere is the service\repair manual for this year and size. Does anyone have any ideas where I can find one? I can get ahold of a physical copy, but I'd love a electronic copy.




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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
And if anyone has advice on how to get the tank back on, it would be appreciated. Do I put it on first, then do the two hoses? Or the hoses, then the tank?


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You people must start taking photographs before you undo things..You have two areas of fault finding to do..electrics and fuel..

You don't need a tank to check the electrics..

Do you know how to test for spark?

John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As to the undoing of things, it was off when I inherited the bike.

To check for spark, wouldn't that be a screwdriver and testing the starter?
 

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No..

First you need a good battery..a $10 Digital multimeter and a spare spark plug..

The battery should read 12.6 volts measured on the dc volts scale..

put the bike into neutral.. the kill switch to run and switch on the ignition..

press the starter..the engine should turn over..

now pull one HT lead off any sparkplug and fit the cap on the spare sparkplug..Press the thread of the spare sparkplug firmly against the metal part of the engine with a piece of wood..

Look closely at the sparkplug electrode while getting someone to press the starter..do you have a spark?

John.
 

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No..

now pull one HT lead off any sparkplug and fit the cap on the spare sparkplug..Press the thread of the spare sparkplug firmly against the metal part of the engine with a piece of wood..

Look closely at the sparkplug electrode while getting someone to press the starter..do you have a spark?

John.
Awww... why did you tell him about the wood! Everyone should try just holding it against the metal at least once! :twisted:
 

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Awww... why did you tell him about the wood! Everyone should try just holding it against the metal at least once! :twisted:
LMAO! I was thinking the exact same thing! It's part of the learning curve that everyone should experience at least once. Twice if you're a little thick!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, this question may go in another thread, but here goes:

I've looked in the primary tank with a flashlight and everything appears to be rust free. It appears that the reserve is a blank tank on the bottom of the bike, under the battery. Is there any way to know if it is "clean", or what should I do? I looks like it is completely closed off, except for two openings that feed from the primary fuel tank.


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Sort out your spark first then when you have a spark we can sort out the fuel and the engine will run..if you don't do one thing at a time you will end up with a box of bits..

John.
 

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Originally posted by Zanshin
Awww... why did you tell him about the wood! Everyone should try just holding it against the metal at least once!
I haven't been keeping up with the thread, but for the reasons why solutions shouldn't be served up on a silver platter ....

  • The snag is a rite of passage for a given bike.
  • It's easier to not reply at all and enjoy the poor guy's frustration.
  • It's easier to type "Search the archives ...."
  • The OP is really a jackass who would never ever volunteer solutions himself.
  • Odds are the OP won't post a follow-up on how things worked out.
 

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^^^^^
And he seems not to be able to afford a shop manual either which wwould be the smartest thing to do 1st. but thats a repeated advice that should be the 1st. offering of help here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
all, I can't afford the shop manual at the moment, due to the christmas season and purchasing of gifts. I will reply each time something works; having never had a project bike (the suzuki worked when I bought it), i've never had to go through something like this before and do "troubleshooting". all the links that have been offered to me I was unable to download the manual. once I can afford it, I will be purchasing it. if I can, i'll even have the spine ripped off it and have it scanned, then send it over.

does anyone know what the part number is for either the champion or autolite plugs? I've gone to both walmart and oreilly and purchased what they gave me based on their computer, but the boot wouldn't properly "lock" over the end of the plug. What are the repercussions to unscrewing a current plug and using the part number on it (assuming there is one) to buy another one? I've never gapped a plug before and would prefer to avoid that right now if at all possible.

I am requesting solutions to some things, but it's because I've never done this stuff. Knowing the expected outcome of something that I'm working on is helpful, since knowing how it's supposed to work helps me troubleshoot it when it doesn't work.

i've got the board ready, I just need the right size plug to test with. both wm and orielly provided with me a chamption ra8hc, which the boot didn't fit over. once i get that, I will test. and testing a metal spark plug on a metal surface....just not smart. good way to get zapped. seeing the burned scorch mark on wood...much better (when I get there).






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You can use any old plug to test for spark

the correct one for your bike is NGK DPR6,7,of 8 EA-9 it is one of the cheapest you can buy, you will probably get 4 for $10.. a manual will probably cost you $25 and will save that on just one repair..

The reason not to unscrew the existing plug was simply to save time, but it has been several days now so that is not an issue.. just unscrew one of the plugs and use that.. NGK plugs will work right out of the box.. and if you can't afford a manual because of Christmas ask for one as a christmas present.. Haynes or Clymer both make one and they are cheap enough..The Clymer one is # M313

John.
 

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I will reply each time something works;
I & et al. wasn't meaning 'You' personally, so purely FYI stop eavesdropping in on the private conversation. It's only necessary to post status reports if it's requested for example to confirm something obviously vital to determine or rule out a given culprit. This is not Tweeter, yet, the last I checked. However, even if it takes 2 months to finally get around to fixing things, you're busy such and such, it's nice to post a follow up. You might have even stumbled on an easier solution.
 

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all,

does anyone know what the part number is for either the champion or autolite plugs? I've gone to both walmart and oreilly and purchased what they gave me based on their computer, but the boot wouldn't properly "lock" over the end of the plug. What are the repercussions to unscrewing a current plug and using the part number on it (assuming there is one) to buy another one? I've never gapped a plug before and would prefer to avoid that right now if at all possible

i've got the board ready, I just need the right size plug to test with. both wm and orielly provided with me a chamption ra8hc, which the boot didn't fit


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do you know that the top of an an american spark plug will un screw from the [email protected]?
most foreign plugs just have the threaded end, that is a friction fit in the plug wire cap!

gapping a plug is easy with a feeler gage!!they aint very expensive!!
 

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In case no one else has posted it for you, here is the PDF version of your Shop Manual...VT700 Service Manual

As someone else pointed out...or maybe they didnt, either way, the NGK sparkplugs do have a cross reference for Champion and AutoLite..depending on your parts place...I opted to pay the extra $2 a plug and went with the NGK`s, I just had to wait 2 days for them to come in from Advanced Auto. When they come in, just take them out of the box and spin the rounded cap off and you will be left the same connector that your plug wires work with normally..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I did not know that the plug had a cap on it until I went back to orielly and told them what was happening and they showed me that it unscrewed.

I had turned the ignition to on, the run switch to run, made sure it was in neutral (light was on) and hit the starter button, pulling wire #3 (back right wire as you're sitting on the bike). It made a whirring and "clicking" type sound, but I did not see any spark against the wood. I have not checked the other three wires (my batter died before I could...I think I will need a new one, as even after being fully charged on the tender it only last for a couple of "hits"). With all that being said, what's the next step? Test the other three wires? Purchase new ignition wires\modules? FYI, the tank is sitting on the ground, and I'm assuming that I don't need it at this point...am I incorrect?

FYI, when the battery is charged, I do get lights to come on and such, so it is powering the bike. Given that info, since the lights are coming on and the tender is green, that should be enough "juice" to spark things, yes or no?

Thanks to all.
 
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