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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to start a thread for this model. Interested in hearing from other owners, and learning more about its history, it’s quirks, and it’s technical resources. Didn’t see a thread come up for this here.

282751

(I know this has a business logo, but it’s the nicest photo I’ve seen anywhere of this model, no plug intended.)

The 1987 VT1100C model took on a brand-new look with a lower seat (660 mm (26 in)), a longer wheelbase 1,700 millimetres (65 in), a 13.0 litres; 2.86 imperial gallons (3.44 US gal) fuel tank, and an 41 mm (1.6 in) extended front fork. Both exhaust pipes were now run along the right side of the bike, with the horns being relocated to the sides of the engine. The engine, while the same 1099 cc displacement as the previous model, is rated for approximately 60 horsepower due to shorter stroke and larger pistons. It also now had a four-speed transmission with a hydraulically actuated clutch. The "VT1100C" model was not manufactured in 1991 (to sell off excess stock of 1990 models), but returned in 1992 with a "Made in the USA" stamp on the seat.
Visually, the VT1100C matched most of the styling cues of the Harley-Davidson FXDWG. This styling continued through 1996.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_VT1100

Is that true that it was “Made in USA”?
 

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2001 Valkyrie I/S
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looking to replace OEM headlight with LED bulb (already), with larger headlight housing and lense and use same LED bulb (which already fits OEM housing). As always here, related to 1993 Honda Shadow VT1100C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The electronic turn signal relay worked like a charm to fix hyper flashing. It’s located left side behind the removable shield attached to frame. Used: 12V LED Flasher Turn Signal Light Electronic Relay Electronic Relay for Turn Signal Indicator LED Hyper Fast Blink for Motorcycles
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The electronic turn signal relay worked like a charm to fix hyper flashing. It’s located left side behind the removable shield attached to frame behind and below handle bars. This forum was a big help figuring all this out.
Coming tomorrow, Custom LED Blinker Genie for Motorcycles - Converts 2-Wire LED to 3-Wire for Run AND Turns (pair) so the front turn signals can also be running lights.
Last challenge will be to keep front side headlights on when high beams are on. Figuring I need to splice power to them between high beam power. Concern is that this might result in high beams staying on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sent to Custom LED Blinker Genie support, but posted here in case anyone has done this on their Shadow (this product claims to fix the 4 blinker LED problem as well as allow your front turn signals to also behave like running lights):

I’m having difficulty installing these on my 1993 Honda Shadow VT1100C. I have replaced the turn signal relay with an electronic relay to overcome the hyper flash problem. I have also replaced the turn signal bulbs in the new light bar right and left sides (2, not 3 wire).

The wiring in the bike, original, provides a forked green wire for each side, an orange and orange with white stripe for left, and a blue and blue with stripe white for left.

Your instructions say to connect the white to the power wire out to each signal, the red to the running light wire, and to ground the black wire.

Questions:
1. Which of 3 bike wires is the white genie wire to be connected? For simplicity let’s stick with just right side: to the forked green wire, the solid light blue, or the light blue with white stripe, or none of the original whites to the signal?
2. Is the genie red wire to be connected to any of those or to another source on the bike? I’ve read one place where it’s to be wired directly to the indicator light in the meter?
3. I don’t see a reciprocal grounding wire on the bike, is it just to be grounded to the frame, or is one of the original wires for that signal to be used?
4. When wired correctly, does one of the 2 wires from the actual turn signal remain disconnected? Or should it connect to one of the original signal wires on the bike?

I have the bike’s technical manual, but other than mentioning which wires are for which signal, it does not say what they actually are.

I’m excited to get this wired and working correctly, so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

Reference: https://www.customled.com/products/...IyIvuk7v55AIVQz0MCh2b7gKbEAQYBSABEgKMffD_BwE#
 

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On right side, solid green is ground, solid blue should be signal wire, blue with white strip should be running light. So white wire on right side should go to blue, red to blue white, black to solid green.
 

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Given:
  • Green wire is the oem's Ground wire on almost all Shadows.

  • GENIE module has an input side and a output side (see pic on the very bottom). The output side has a lone YELLOW wire.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

INPUT SIDE OF GENIE

Brown/White stripe wire on bike ..... to Genie red wire.

Solid wire on bike ..... to Genie white wire.

Green wire on bike ..... to Genie black wire.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OUTPUT SIDE OF GENIE

If incandescent turn signals, it doesn't matter which of the Genie's two wires connects to which of the 2-wire turn signal's wires.


If Led turn signals:
  • Genie's YELLOW wire to the turn signal's positive(+) wire. Led lights might have a polarity.

  • Genie's BLACK wire to the turn signal's negative(-) wire. From the schematic, Genie's BLACK wire has two branches. Branch A goes to the input side of the Genie module. Branch B goes to the turn signal's negative (-) wire.

    • By convention, RED is positive and BLACK is negative.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    282889
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you.
Here is the BG owners response for reference:
  • RED on BG to BLUE/WHITE stripe (running light wire from motorcycle)
  • WHITE on BG to Blue (blinker wire from motorcycle)
  • BLACK on BG to Green (ground)
  • YELLOW on BG connects to positive power input to the blinker lamp. This feeds positive power to the lamp you wish to control as run/turn. Connect the the ground wire of this lamp to the Black and Green wires also. All grounds just get connected together.
Now there is one more crucial step for Honda motorcycles such as yours. You need to interconnect the Blue/white and the Orange/White wires together. You can either run a jumper from one side to the other, or simply connect the blue/white, orange/white and the red wires from BOTH BG units all together. The reason is because the running light wire that runs to the front signals cuts off completely when the blinkers are activated, and stays off until the blinkers are canceled. This causes the operated load (LEDs or lamps) to not work properly as the Blinker Genie is designed to draw all power from the "running light" input wire. By connecting them together, you create a constant ignition switched power source for the BG’s.
 

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True, you can connect both stripe wires (running light) to RED (BG) to get constant voltage, since at least one running light will be ON and the BG requires constant voltage. This is probably better than the Brown/White (Constant ON) wire I suggested since you'd be cutting or splicing into a pristine B/W wire. Whereas the ends of the turn signal stripe wires are left dangling. You might as well make use of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I’m still not doing something right. Will post solution as soon as I have it. Sent follow up to BG support. He’s been fast to respond so far. Sent photo of wiring this time. My set of 10 wires I got doesn’t have the light blue or light blue with stripe, so provided photo and description.
 

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The wiring in the bike, original, provides a forked green wire for each side, an orange and orange with white stripe for left, and a blue and blue with stripe white for left.

Do we have a non sequitur? If you read the above, then read the below, what 10 wires are we talking about? I had thought you were using the stock wires on the bike to wire the aftermarket 2-wire turn signals (the quote above). Are you using the stock wires? Does the blinker Genie even have 10 wires to connect to? Just asking. After a while the Genie person might inform you that they sell pre-wired units for double the price, lol. They don't have pre-wire Honda units?


My set of 10 wires I got doesn’t have the light blue or light blue with stripe .....
282902


282904
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The BG wires are as illustrated in the photo above.
The wires from the new light bars (2 for each side) were BK and R, but they were too short to reach the wire box under the tank. So I extended them with an O wire to left turn signal bar R, and GN wire to left signal bar BK. For right side signal bar extended R with B wire and extended BK with GN. (So blue for right, orange for left, with a green grounding wire for each side) There is no 3rd wire from signal bar lights for B/W stripe or O/W stripe.

When I put the volt meter on the bike’s solid B or O solid, wires with ignition on, there are no volts. Turn the turn signal on and each has 12+ volts. The B/W and O/W striped bike wires put out constant .06 Volts. So they may not have enough electricity to power running lights.

(Note: when I replaced the mechanical turn signal relay with an electronic one, I notice it only had 2 pins, not 3, like the mechanical one. Not sure if this is significant, but thought I’d include it.)

I may well need to tap into the BN/W stripe on the bike for constant flow. The only one I saw in the wire box under the tank was in the wire bundle harness towards the front. Is that the one you are referencing?

The BG support says I also need an addition diode for each LED signal to avoid the 4 flash issue.

Note: when I restore wiring, without BGs, G to bike G, O to bike O, B to bike B, the turn signals function as expected (just no running lights, obviously).

Appreciate your help with this wiring spaghetti. Hopefully this thread will provide a how to for folks trying to do this in the future.
 

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The B/W and O/W striped bike wires put out constant .06 Volts. So they may not have enough electricity to power running lights.

.06 volts is low for the running light wire, for whatever reasons. Definitely not enough to supply the Blinker Genie with constant +12 that their literature states is required.


I may well need to tap into the BN/W stripe on the bike for constant flow. The only one I saw in the wire box under the tank was in the wire bundle harness towards the front. Is that the one you are referencing?

Br/W wire supplies the meter(s) with +12 to keep the meters lighted. So, that should be able to supply the Genie with constant voltage, instead of the suggested Br wire which powers the taillight running light (low-filament) and other things.



(Note: when I replaced the mechanical turn signal relay with an electronic one, I notice it only had 2 pins, not 3, like the mechanical one. Not sure if this is significant, but thought I’d include it.)

Mechanical flashers require a Ground wire. Most electronic versions only require an IN wire and an OUT wire, 2 wires only.



The BG support says I also need an addition diode for each LED signal to avoid the 4 flash issue.

If you installed leds on all 4 turn signals, than definitely diodes are required to prevent 4-way flashing, inadvertent hazard lights, where all 4 turn signals flash simultaneously no matter which side signals are activated. That's not always a problem with leds only in the front signals, or leds only in the rear signals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Diodes installed, all LED setup complete. Advise soldering diodes. Custom LED support was great. Ran ground wire all the way back through bike to grounding bolt near air filter under seat.

So in review:
  • Get electronic turn signal relay should fit without issue.
  • Install Custom LED Blinker Genies to allow 2 wire turn signals to function as turn and running lights.
  • Install Custom LED diodes to resolve 4 ways Blinker issue.
I used standard (for this bike) bullet connectors throughout, soldering in the diodes on flat connectors. A good crimper tool is needed. Check that everything works repeatedly as you reassemble bike to troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is there a recommendation for a 7inch forward sitting headlight housing that works with LED bulbs and that can reasonably be installed on this bike?

I’ve tried to read through many threads and wasn’t able to find a clear answer. I have a light bar installed and the stock light housing is so far back that it reflects off the 2 sidelight housings back at me, which is a problem for night riding.
 

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I have a light bar installed and the stock light housing is so far back that it reflects off the 2 sidelight housings back at me, which is a problem for night riding.

Never heard of the problem. Are you able to post a pic to give readers a visual reference? You can fabricate an adapter that extends the stock headlight stay out to the front. Use thicker metal though. The studs on the stay might have to be replaced for longer bolts. They're only tack welded to the stay.
283110

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