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Part 14, headlight stay. Part 18 nests in 14. Most extension plates are like the pic. They're for headlights that have a single bolt on the bottom of the bucket. The Shadow headlights use two bolts to mount the headlight on the lower bridge, so the typical extension brackets don't work. Naturally, you could drill them out. If your headlight were fork mounted, (side mounted), there's much more options.

Also, the headlight bolts are only like 6mm. I suggest that you go to the next larger SAE diameter size. If you went 8mm metric, after drilling the I.D. there won't be very much meat left on the circumference of the boss that the bolts fit in depending on your bridge. 6mm is kinda weak for a headlight in my opinion. I don't think there's a 7mm bolt easily available. Also, because the triple tree is angled, you might need a dog leg bent in the bracket so the headlight don't point too much up, dunno. ( x, bottom graphic).

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Wanted to start a thread for this model. Interested in hearing from other owners, and learning more about its history, it’s quirks, and it’s technical resources. Didn’t see a thread come up for this here.

View attachment 282751
(I know this has a business logo, but it’s the nicest photo I’ve seen anywhere of this model, no plug intended.)

The 1987 VT1100C model took on a brand-new look with a lower seat (660 mm (26 in)), a longer wheelbase 1,700 millimetres (65 in), a 13.0 litres; 2.86 imperial gallons (3.44 US gal) fuel tank, and an 41 mm (1.6 in) extended front fork. Both exhaust pipes were now run along the right side of the bike, with the horns being relocated to the sides of the engine. The engine, while the same 1099 cc displacement as the previous model, is rated for approximately 60 horsepower due to shorter stroke and larger pistons. It also now had a four-speed transmission with a hydraulically actuated clutch. The "VT1100C" model was not manufactured in 1991 (to sell off excess stock of 1990 models), but returned in 1992 with a "Made in the USA" stamp on the seat.
Visually, the VT1100C matched most of the styling cues of the Harley-Davidson FXDWG. This styling continued through 1996.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_VT1100

Is that true that it was “Made in USA”?
Love that bike, bought one new in 1996 and put nearly 50.000 miles on it:
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Re: making a plate to extend the headlights from the lower bridge.

the bolts for the VT1100 headlight stay are 8mm, it's not necessary to drill out the lower bridge for larger bolts. The Oem graphic is misleading. 8mm is large enough. [edit] I'm not suggesting the extender as the best solution to re-position your headlight from the lightbar. The headlight wires might need to be lengthened, etc.

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Do you think it a bad idea to fabricate a 3’ extension that replaces part 16? Either angles steel or solid aluminum the housing could bolt directly into. As you know the OEM housing has 3 small bolts not the single bolt that seems like most housings seem to use. Appreciate your input!
 

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Leave the headlight, stay, bracket, nuts and bolts, etc. together as a unit. Bolt the total assembly to the adapter as described below.
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Do you think it a bad idea to fabricate a extension that replaces part 16? Either angles steel or solid aluminum the housing could bolt directly into.

Item 15 are rubber mounts. Welding a neck from 14 to 16 probably won't allow you to keep the rubber mounting system without doing a lot of intricate work. Also, 16 isn't replaceable, unless you're able to duplicate the bolt pattern. Just a hunch, but you're not too much after a finished look?
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
A fabricated piece like this. This is likely longer than needed, only need to add 3’. It can be finished in a chrome paint or black.

038E4118-24BB-4CE4-987F-2EA48B7E7739.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ever changed the rear tire on one of these? Standard far to remove and put new one on rim, but seating it on the rim can be a bit of a challenge. Found this after a few hours of trying different things and it worked like a champ!
I've done nearly 100 GS front and rear tires. The GS front has a narrow rim, but the tire is nearly always narrower. My three suggestions are:

*Make sure you do not have the schrader valve in the stem.

*Make sure both sides of the tire have some lube (water and dishwashing liquid if you don't have tire lube).

*Lastly, lay the wheel on it's side and push the tire around so that the tire is evenly spaced around the wheel on both sides.

This is important because it makes sure the sidewall of the tire is touching all the way around. You only need a tiny bit of contact to get the tire started. I have done the other methods on the GS wheel, using a strap, bouncing it, etc., and none work as consistently as ensuring the tire is evenly spaced around the rim.
 

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06' VT1100C/99' GL1500C Valkyrie
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Honestly it's more work to produce than needed and probably won't look as good.

I made a extension plate as pictured for CPTRICK3 though the pic he posted doesn't show it as you see that his lamps are way past his headlight.
Part #14 bolts to it with a 100mm spacing X however much you want to extend it.

Pictures of mine before she left the stable. The handlebars are J&P 81/2" Custom Street.
J&P Cycles 1 Chrome 8-1-2 Custom Street Medium Handlebar 5000066 J&P Cycles



 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yeah, I have some on now that were non standard end shields. Doesn’t look great, but keeps my boots from melting, and my ankles from cooking.
 
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