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Discussion Starter #1
Good day. I'm a first time post and appreciate all the people who make a forum educational and take the time to help out fellow riders.

Bike history - 1997 Honda VLX 600 40K miles - Texas bike - ran over dog bending two valves. Bike sat in garage for 2 years before I got around to rebuild. Insides of the motor were still perfect even the clutch housing. Honda makes some solid motors. Compared to my 1999 R6 transmission rebuild, the shadow motor was flawless and impressed the **** out of me. Bike is in perfectly physical condition and yesterday fired up for the first time. All stock. Stock exhaust.



Question/Troubleshooting issue: I'm having an issue with idle on the bike. Compression, spark are good. Fresh gas, fuel filter, plugs, etc. Air cleaner is on with new clean air filter. Bike revs great and sounds strong, but I'm having trouble configuring the carb. Manual says 1.25 turns out for the idle mixture screws. I've turned them all the way out to 4 turns and still can't get an idle without stalling.

Another issue, which might be due to the idle mixture is I'm maxing out the idle twist knob by the choke. I put the carbs on scyning the two carbs together but end up moving them around since I can't get an idle.

I don't know if the miles has something to do with the "stock" settings or what I'm doing wrong. Carb has been cleaned inside and out with no gumming issues.

Excited to hear ya'lls response.

Thanks,
 

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Is the idle too low? That is black knob on left side carb, adjustable by hand. A/F screw need not be used to increase idle RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes. When the choke is pushed in, the bike will shall. Bike will idle with choke on. Bike revs with or without choke, however, the only way to keep the bike running without choke is to turn gas slightly.

I've read not to adjust the idle mixture screw until the very last step, but I've only started messing with it since I haven't idle success.
 

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Look for black knob of left side (outer) of left carb, turn it to open throttle slide's, therefore increasing RPM. I guess the VLX has two carbs, bottom line is...you need to raise the idle (throttle stop) setting, not adjust A/F screw...yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Now when I increase the idle with the black knob (I know what you're talking about) will I also have to adjust the idle for the rear carb with the adjuster screw located in the middle of the carb?
 

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Well, yes, kinda...that is the sync screw. You know how to hook up to manometer and "level", heh?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I walked outside and fire the bike right up just now. Warmed it up and pushed in choke and died...

Increase idle screw and bike fires right up and than dies...fuel pump is working and as stated previously, when throttle is twisted there is no lag in rev.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
manometer and "level" - yes, I've done this with other bikes, however the idle would run rough, but still run. When carb is off I visually synced to each other. I understand the manometer and "level" process, but woudn't the bike still idle?
 

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What RPM do you think it is running w/o any additional throttle from you? A FEW hundred I would guess if it keeps dying. Set it up to 1000 or so. If need be, hold throttle open a tad to keep it runnin, and adjust black knob till it "overcomes" the position you are holding the throttle grip in. Sounds to me, (or I am thinkin) it's (closed throttle position) just too, TOO low...

Set that up to 1000 or so, I'd guess to start at 2.5-3 turns out on A/F screw, then sync carbs with meter installed. From my experience, FOR THE MOST PART, the A/F screw primarily helps popping on decel.
 

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sounds like clogged pilots or vaccume leak. or possibly idle adjustment as mentioned,
Get it to idle with the choke and spray some wd 40 or carb lean near the boots and see if the idle changes if so maybe the connectors need changing.... You may also, as a quick fix check the tightness of the connector clamps... if they are not tight around the boot you can remove the little spacer and make the clamp a little tighter and that may help..."if" that is leaking.. hth
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Question - according to my manual, when inital visual sync of carbs off the bike after cleaning, you are suppose to align the the base of the main jet. I've attached two pictures to help my ask my question, the butterfly is suppose to be at the base of the large hole or the small 4 holes? Red arrows are pointing to the locations. If I understand correctly, the 4 smaller holes are the small jets for low RPMS and the large 1 hole is for higher RPMS.

I have a haynes manual and it is pretty vague sometimes.

Thanks
 

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I'll be honest with you, I don't know anything about visually syncing the carbs...never heard of it. Only way I know to do it is with manometer (home-made is fine) attached to vacuum port(s) of intake boot. This "gauge" set up allows both carbs be adjusted to pull equal vacuum.

On second thought, maybe what you are asking is how to set the carb that DOES NOT "change" with the sync screw. You know, the sync screw only moves one of the carbs to "match" the other non-adjustable one...

I guess I can't completely answer the question, yet:wink:. Give me some more info, and what you tried/how that turned out..we can go from there.
 

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What you[ want to do is align both the butterfly with one of the 4 small holes and using the sync screw make both be at the same hole..or line up the same.. as for above idle or anything where the throttle cable takes over from the idle screw as far as tension on the linkage a sync guage would be the best. if you line it up as tthe manual suggests it wil be fine unless you have linkage problems
(highly unlikely).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had forgot that the element was so old it fell apart in my hand when I was removing parts and it slipped my mind when troubleshooting.
 

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baylor, if you can't resolve issues with info here for sure check in at the delphi forum,, it's strickly vlx, those guys over there are wiz bangs when it comes down to the engine or mods...

not meaning to take away anything from members here,,,just not many vlx riders here( i am one, but lack knowledge)

mark
 

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I would say yes, it NEEDS the air filter. These bike's apparently are fussy w/o one...
 
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