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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently swapped out my handlebars on my 03 Spirit 750. I had a really hard time finding the proper part no.'s for cables, I had a lot of questions in regards to the job, and I had a lot of concerns. There wasn't a plethora of information on YouTube and such in regards to this job. But after proper consideration and a lot of research I took a chance and did the job. It worked out really well and I hope that this thread could help somebody in the future.

All cables were made by Motion Pro.
The Pull cable is +12" over stock , part #: 02-0605 Cost $17.87+tax, free shipping.
The Push cable is +12" over stock , part #: 02-0606 Cost $18.03+tax, free shipping
The Clutch cable is +12" over stock , part #: 02-0607 (This cable was supposed to be shipped in stainless steel, but I received vinyl black and didn't complain.) Cost $17.80+tax, free shipping.
My handlebars are made by Emgo, Rise 14", Width 32", Center width 5.5" with a Pullback of 7.5". 1" bar diameter of course. Part #: 07-12505. Cost $51.67+tax
, free shipping.
My brake hose was made custom by a company in Boston, MA, if you PM me I will give the name of the seller. The hose cost $37.50+tax & $12.95 shipping, it is stainless steel coated and made to fit multiple models. I had mine made at a 48" length. This length works for me though I should've ordered 50" for a bit more slack. My forks have 2" extensions so it makes the 48" a little tight. But if your forks are stock then 48" should work just fine for your application.
I swapped out my risers, the ones I used are off of a 750 ACE, much shorter than the Spirit, they were $31.99+tax. Exact match to the triple tree. Otherwise, any other risers I would probably have had to drill out the triple tree spacers.

In regards to the handlebars that I used, I wouldn't totally recommend them only because the center bar (where the risers clamp) isn't long enough. It is a 5.5" width (the risers width is 5") but i didn't take into account that the bars start to bend where they rise and this posed as a problem when I clamped my risers. There is a little space on both sides which bothers me. It is safe, they won't move but I would prefer them to be fully seated. I will probably change to a T-bar (window style) in the near future.

Overall, was a simple job, took me 3 hours but I also had to mess with my carburetor for a good 45 minutes.

Notes:
-I'd say 14" is the max height with handlebars unless you want to re-wire the harnesses. My stock wires are maxed out right now, but I have the perfect amount of slack.
-Each control has a post that inserts into a hole on the stock bars. This prevents them from moving. I've heard of guys grinding them down. To each his own but I don't like that. I just measured and drilled a hole on each side of the bars.
-Brake hose came with brand new banjo bolts and crush washers; I ended up putting them aside and just re-used the stock bolts and crush washers, if it doesnt leak you're fine.
-I purchase everything from eBay, always.
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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Looks absolutely great! I run Drag specialties 18" narrow apes on 2" risers my Shadow and you are correct about the control wiring, it won't reach above about a 12-14" rise so I had to extend all of the control wires about 10" Personally I went with Venhill clutch/throttle cables and brake line but I'm sure the motion pro stuff is just as good, I'm running a 1375mm Venhill brake line(54") and I still have a bit of slack, but I also routed the line a bit differently than stock.

As far as your personal concern with the risers and bar combo you're using, you may want to look into the Chubbys HD conversion risers, they will allow you to run most four bolt one piece HD top clamps for a lot more clamping force, plus I really like how it looks. You will have to drill the stock bushings out to 1/2" to use em but that only took me a few minutes.

Here's my Chubby HD conversion risers with their top clamp, everyone I talked to told me with bars as tall as I run I should run a one piece top clamp.
283321


One question I have is do your bars move forward and back a lot with the stock risers bushings? I ended up using some specialized washers to clamp around the actual bushing to solid mount the bars to the tree to stop them moving at all. Really like your setup, looks great!
 

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Personally I went with Venhill clutch/throttle cables and brake line
  • but I'm sure the motion pro stuff is just as good,

I ordered several custom length cables from Motion Pro. The thing is they direct you to file it and pay for it at a phone number. Almost like it was a side job for an employee. Nothing wrong with the item. Just didn't like giving debit card info over the phone. I haven't tried Venhill yet, but I like their option of selling kits so you can make your own. Well, if you're sure on your ability to solder the barrel to the end of the wire.
 

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I ordered several custom length cables from Motion Pro. The thing is they direct you to file it and pay for it at a phone number. Almost like it was a side job for an employee. Nothing wrong with the item. Just didn't like giving debit card info over the phone. I haven't tried Venhill yet, but I like their option of selling kits so you can make your own. Well, if you're sure on your ability to solder the barrel to the end of the wire.
The Venhill universal kits are what I used and they include multiple different barrel ends, some are a set-screw style that clamp the cable and because of this the only one you must solder is the engine side of the clutch cable. All of the control sides are factory soldered already so you only need to do three if you choose to and with a solid 40W soldering iron it's not that difficult, just takes patience. I used their set screw style ends on the throttle cables to make sure I got the length right and once I had it set I also soldered them, have never had a single issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks man I appreciate it. I have to say though, I would much rather have your set-up. Your narrow 18's look great. I will definitely look into the HD risers. I was skeptical about drilling out the triple tree but the result will be worth it in the end, I would really like to run a one piece clamp setup. Yes the bars dance a little bit. My 97 Spirit 1100 had the same problem when I added Biltwell 9" bars to the risers. It doesn't bother me unless I'm moving the bike around in the garage.
 

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I recently swapped out my handlebars on my 03 Spirit 750. I had a really hard time finding the proper part no.'s for cables, I had a lot of questions in regards to the job, and I had a lot of concerns. There wasn't a plethora of information on YouTube and such in regards to this job. But after proper consideration and a lot of research I took a chance and did the job. It worked out really well and I hope that this thread could help somebody in the future.

All cables were made by Motion Pro.
The Pull cable is +12" over stock , part #: 02-0605 Cost $17.87+tax, free shipping.
The Push cable is +12" over stock , part #: 02-0606 Cost $18.03+tax, free shipping
The Clutch cable is +12" over stock , part #: 02-0607 (This cable was supposed to be shipped in stainless steel, but I received vinyl black and didn't complain.) Cost $17.80+tax, free shipping.
My handlebars are made by Emgo, Rise 14", Width 32", Center width 5.5" with a Pullback of 7.5". 1" bar diameter of course. Part #: 07-12505. Cost $51.67+tax
, free shipping.
My brake hose was made custom by a company in Boston, MA, if you PM me I will give the name of the seller. The hose cost $37.50+tax & $12.95 shipping, it is stainless steel coated and made to fit multiple models. I had mine made at a 48" length. This length works for me though I should've ordered 50" for a bit more slack. My forks have 2" extensions so it makes the 48" a little tight. But if your forks are stock then 48" should work just fine for your application.
I swapped out my risers, the ones I used are off of a 750 ACE, much shorter than the Spirit, they were $31.99+tax. Exact match to the triple tree. Otherwise, any other risers I would probably have had to drill out the triple tree spacers.

In regards to the handlebars that I used, I wouldn't totally recommend them only because the center bar (where the risers clamp) isn't long enough. It is a 5.5" width (the risers width is 5") but i didn't take into account that the bars start to bend where they rise and this posed as a problem when I clamped my risers. There is a little space on both sides which bothers me. It is safe, they won't move but I would prefer them to be fully seated. I will probably change to a T-bar (window style) in the near future.

Overall, was a simple job, took me 3 hours but I also had to mess with my carburetor for a good 45 minutes.

Notes:
-I'd say 14" is the max height with handlebars unless you want to re-wire the harnesses. My stock wires are maxed out right now, but I have the perfect amount of slack.
-Each control has a post that inserts into a hole on the stock bars. This prevents them from moving. I've heard of guys grinding them down. To each his own but I don't like that. I just measured and drilled a hole on each side of the bars.
-Brake hose came with brand new banjo bolts and crush washers; I ended up putting them aside and just re-used the stock bolts and crush washers, if it doesnt leak you're fine.
-I purchase everything from eBay, always.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you so much for this post, I'm sure it will prove to be a major time/headache saver. The cables part #s you have mentioned, are they already at the +12 lengths or do I need to specify this somehow when ordering ?
Sorry for the late response, I have been inactive on this forum for a while. No you do not need to specify, these come standard 12" over. I'm sure you've already found your answer but in case you haven't, hope this finds you..
 
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