2006 Honda Shadow 600 Headlight, Kill switch, and Ignition wiring

384 Views 17 Replies 6 Participants Last post by axman88, 3 d ago

aburmylo

Discussion Starter · 7 d ago

2

Novice here. I've relocated and rewired my kill switch to a new toggle switch and my ignition to a new push button following TJ BC's videos and wiring diagrams. In his videos he ditches the blue and white wire that kills the headlight when starting and also rewires his headlight to an high beam only or off switch. I cant find instructions on how to keep the stock headlight functionality; high beam/low beam, kill light when starting. My headlight is not currently working and I assume that's because the blue and white wire is disconnected at the end that used to plug into the stock ignition/kill switch housing. How should I wire the blue/white wire for stock lighting functionality?

Here is my current setup (from TJBC)

Honda shadow VT600 VLX 600 ignition circuit Diagram (also from TJBC)

See less See more

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

oldguy

· #2 · 7 d ago (Edited)

I've lost track of the number of posts containing TJBC and "now my bike doesn't run/work/etc. "

In a nutshell, there were four wires to the start button, tie the other two together, One should come from key-on power, the other goes across to the dimmer switch, then to the hi and low beams in the headlight. If you eliminated the dimmer and turn signal switch assembly, you will need a single pole/double throw switch (on/on) for a dimmer

Edit: 6 wires counting the kill sw. Black-red to blue-white should be the two headlight wires.

Reactions: 1

aburmylo

Discussion Starter · #3 · 7 d ago

oldguy said:
I've lost track of the number of posts containing TJBC and "now my bike doesn't run/work/etc. "

In a nutshell, there were four wires to the start button, tie the other two together, One should come from key-on power, the other goes across to the dimmer switch, then to the hi and low beams in the headlight. If you eliminated the dimmer and turn signal switch assembly, you will need a single pole/double throw switch (on/on) for a dimmer

Edit: 6 wires counting the kill sw. Black-red to blue-white should be the two headlight wires.

Lol his videos are helpful and I don't usually have any problems following. It's just when you decide to go with a slightly different setup than his, like in this case, you're SOL.

I didn't eliminate the dimmer and turn signal assembly (yet). If I connect the Blue/White (wire that runs across to the dimmer switch) and the black/red (wire for key-on power) to each other, where do those then connect to? Back to one of the two poles on the new ignition?

oldguy

· #4 · 7 d ago

from key-on power somewhere, through a fuse hopefully,,, otherwise it has to come off the battery and that means adding an on/off switch and fuses for the headlights, another for the tail lights, , radiator fan, brake lights, horn,,, The Honda harness was actually pretty efficient already, the less you do to it, the better off you'll be.

Only exception might be to run the headlights direct from battery power through a relay controlled by key on. using heavier wire from bat to relay and relay to lights through dimmer.. 12 ga, 14ga minimum. for brighter lights.

theblooms

· #5 · 6 d ago

Okay, someone has to ask, why on Earth would you want to do this? What's the endgame here?

Reactions: 1

aburmylo

Discussion Starter · #6 · 6 d ago

Do what? Swap out the switches? Plenty of people swap out those, in my opinion, hideous and gigantic stock switch housings. But since you asked I’m bobbing my shadow and cleaning up the wires running to my bars. Moving them to my side cover looks much cleaner (again in my own opinion). It’s cool if it’s not you’re thing but definitely not the most outlandish thing I’ve seen asked on this forum.

Reactions: 2

axman88

· #7 · 6 d ago

If I was doing this, I'd take the BL/RD wire that is coming from the fusebox headlight circuit and going to the starter switch, and instead of running into the momentary N/C contacts in the starter switch, I'd run it through a Toggle switch to the BL/WH wire that goes to the Hi/Lo dimmer switch. Instead of the headlight being switched OFF only while starting, I'd be able to switch it ON or OFF whenever I wanted, as I saw fit. I'd switch if OFF while starting, and OFF when I was working on the bike's electrical system, and OFF when my battery was failing, but I still needed to ride. I'd switch my headlight OFF when I was stuck on the side of the road and wanted people to see my taillight and running lights for safety while I was stuck there, but didn't want to deplete the battery down to nothing in just a few minutes. I'd switch the headlight OFF when my charging system had failed, but I needed to get home.

There's lots of times when one might want their ignition ON, but headlight OFF. This is a feature we had back in the day, before the federal government decided it was easier to force the manufacturers to eliminate the possibility of running headlights off, than to give out tickets to individuals. Machines made for certain other markets, can still be ridden with the headlight off.

And I'd keep the Hi/Lo beam option, because when one filament burns out, it's nice to have a spare. I paid for it, I might as well be able to use it.

The "Engine Run" (A "Kill" is similar, but different) switch is relatively useless, in my opinion, especially if one is planning on moving it physically next to the ignition key switch. The idea of having it on the handle bars is to be able to stop the engine from a location that is accessible if the bike is down and the ignition switch is inaccessible. If I retained it, I'd at least put it on the opposite side of the bike as the ignition switch.

See less See more

aburmylo

Discussion Starter · #8 · 6 d ago

axman88 said:
If I was doing this, I'd take the BL/RD wire that is coming from the fusebox headlight circuit and going to the starter switch, and instead of running into the momentary N/C contacts in the starter switch, I'd run it through a Toggle switch to the BL/WH wire that goes to the Hi/Lo dimmer switch. Instead of the headlight being switched OFF only while starting, I'd be able to switch it ON or OFF whenever I wanted, as I saw fit. I'd switch if OFF while starting, and OFF when I was working on the bike's electrical system, and OFF when my battery was failing, but I still needed to ride. I'd switch my headlight OFF when I was stuck on the side of the road and wanted people to see my taillight and running lights for safety while I was stuck there, but didn't want to deplete the battery down to nothing in just a few minutes. I'd switch the headlight OFF when my charging system had failed, but I needed to get home.

There's lots of times when one might want their ignition ON, but headlight OFF. This is a feature we had back in the day, before the federal government decided it was easier to force the manufacturers to eliminate the possibility of running headlights off, than to give out tickets to individuals. Machines made for certain other markets, can still be ridden with the headlight off.

And I'd keep the Hi/Lo beam option, because when one filament burns out, it's nice to have a spare. I paid for it, I might as well be able to use it.

The "Engine Run" (A "Kill" is similar, but different) switch is relatively useless, in my opinion, especially if one is planning on moving it physically next to the ignition key switch. The idea of having it on the handle bars is to be able to stop the engine from a location that is accessible if the bike is down and the ignition switch is inaccessible. If I retained it, I'd at least put it on the opposite side of the bike as the ignition switch.

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much. I found an on/off/on switch that should work perfectly for this.

Also agree with the kill. I was going to eliminate it totally but ended up keeping it and routing it to the opposite side of my key.

swifty2014

· #9 · 6 d ago

A double throw toggle switch with the center as off would let you have low and high beams by switching either up or down on the toggle.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

aburmylo

Discussion Starter · #10 · 5 d ago

swifty2014 said:
A double throw toggle switch with the center as off would let you have low and high beams by switching either up or down on the toggle.

Exactly what I need. Thanks for the post

Troy Jollimore

· #11 · 5 d ago

theblooms said:
Okay, someone has to ask, why on Earth would you want to do this? What's the endgame here?

The premise is a little dumb, (or overbearing, anyway), but makes sense if you want a minimized custom bobber that most likely would never be ridden at night.

aburmylo

Discussion Starter · #12 · 5 d ago

Troy Jollimore said:
The premise is a little dumb, (or overbearing, anyway), but makes sense if you want a minimized custom bobber that most likely would never be ridden at night.

Overbearing? Never ride at night? Haha I’m not removing my headlight and asking if I can ride with my eyes closed. Not sure why people feel like posting these comments if they don’t have any actual advice. But thanks for reading I guess.

swifty2014

· #13 · 4 d ago

Many guys shrink down their lights, black out their turn and tail lights, so at night, can you imagine why a car driver man not see you on a dark road?
Safety is important with so many distracted drivers.

aburmylo

Discussion Starter · #14 · 4 d ago

Yeah that stuff is crazy to me but hey to each their own. Maybe I misspoke on here but I’m just looking to rewire my headlight to a double throw switch, as suggested on here, since I moved my kill switch and ignition to new switches on the side cover. All of my lights are staying. Thanks to those that responded with solutions to my questions.

axman88

· #15 · 4 d ago

aburmylo said:
Yeah that stuff is crazy to me but hey to each their own. Maybe I misspoke on here but I’m just looking to rewire my headlight to a double throw switch, as suggested on here, since I moved my kill switch and ignition to new switches on the side cover. All of my lights are staying. Thanks to those that responded with solutions to my questions.

Personally, I wouldn't want to mount any electrical components to either side cover on my '01 VLX. Its side covers are mounted via plastic studs into rubber bushings, and just not very secure. And, those side covers need to come off, fairly often, for access to various components. I wouldn't want my side covers hanging by my improvised electrical wires while I'm working on this or that. This would be asking for a broken wire or blown fuse.

If I was doing this, I'd create a new bracket, mounted securely to the frame, to mount my switches to. And, I'd make sure that the switch handles were recessed far enough that they weren't going to be interacting with my leg while riding, or be broken off if I dropped the bike. Also, I'd give a bit of thought to how I was going to strain relieve my wiring. There's a LOT of vibration on a motorcycle.

Reactions: 1

Troy Jollimore

· #16 · 3 d ago

aburmylo said:
Overbearing? Never ride at night? Haha I’m not removing my headlight and asking if I can ride with my eyes closed. Not sure why people feel like posting these comments if they don’t have any actual advice. But thanks for reading I guess.

Well, I wasn’t talking to you, for one thing. I was addressing @theblooms question. Yours has already been answered, though my mentioning that it’s fine if you never ride you bike at night might have given you a clue… With TJ’s wiring, you ONLY have high beam. The overbearing part would be intentionally wanting to blind oncoming traffic at night? 🤔 It makes sense during the day, as it makes you more visible.

aburmylo

Discussion Starter · #17 · 3 d ago

Troy Jollimore said:
Well, I wasn’t talking to you, for one thing. I was addressing @theblooms question. Yours has already been answered, though my mentioning that it’s fine if you never ride you bike at night might have given you a clue… With TJ’s wiring, you ONLY have high beam. The overbearing part would be intentionally wanting to blind oncoming traffic at night? 🤔 It makes sense during the day, as it makes you more visible.

Ahh I gotcha now. Misunderstood you at first. Yeah I’m not a fan of the high beam or off but some people (not me) feel like the low is too low and pointless. I haven’t had that problem yet.

axman88

· #18 · 3 d ago

3

aburmylo said:
Yeah I’m not a fan of the high beam or off but some people (not me) feel like the low is too low and pointless.

Personally, I almost never use my high beams. Here in the big city, they are never appropriate. In fact, I see folks in cars with out of state plates who don't even seem to realize that they are driving with their headlights off, the illumination of the urban roads is so bright, it's hard to tell if your lights are on or off.

Besides, the only real difference between high and low beams is the angle they are aimed at. Prior to the mid 20s, there were only single filaments in electric lights. It was kind of a big deal when, in 1917, Cadillac introduced a system that had a lever on the steering column so you could manually and mechanically "dip" the headlights. This 1917 model 55 was equipped with the new technology:

Prior to this innovation, you'd have to stop, get out and tilt the headlamps manually.

Improvements came fast in the next decades, but dual filaments was only one solution. This patent, from 1925, discusses switching a resistor inline with the headlamps to reduce the light intensity for the purpose of dimming.

Going the other direction, by the early 1930s, Packards were equipped with no less than 3 beam settings for their headlights.

On a motorcycle, I could see myself reaching out and manually moving my headlamp, even while underway, if it accomplished some benefit. It's certainly a lot easier to accomplish than on that 1917 Opera Coupe Caddy.

All this said, It is nice to have the high beam available for SMIDSY avoidance. My Royal Enfield has a momentary button on the left hand control, specifically for this purpose, which momentarily flashes the high beams while held in, the spring loaded trigger switch falls naturally right under the left hand index finger. Seems like the sort of thing that a top tier moto company like Honda should have thought of, but I've only seen it on the RE. In the time it would take a Shadow rider to switch from low beam to high, I could be halfway through spelling S O S in morse code with my RE's high beam flasher.

See less See more

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

Top