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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I just bought a 2011 VT750 Aero, an upgrade from my 1984 VT750C. This new bike has ABS brakes and fuel injection and all this modern stuff. The ABS light came on and is staying on. Has anyone else ran into this problem and if so what was the cause for you? Apparently it can be scanned by the dealer to find the problem, but I would prefer not paying $100/hr for them to do it if I can do it myself. Where would the scan port be?

I have tried to find information doing a google search but couldn't find anything. I have tried to find a service manual that has ABS in it, but only found an older one without ABS information. These bikes are the same from 2004-2011 from what I have read, but I don't think the ABS came out until recently.

Anyways, if someone could shed some light and point me in the right direction, I would surely appreciate the help. I am always open to the challenge and learning and this new bike will be a learning curve as was my diesel truck when I got it.
 

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This will explain the basics of how it is supposed to work.

You are going to have to get it scanned to know where the problem is but before doing this if it were me, I would disconnect the battery for maybe 30 minutes to see if it will clear the error. Then when that fails to resolve it I would remove any and all connectors that I could find going to the wheel speed sensors, motor units and the ABS control module and make sure they are clean and tight. The third thing to do is then take it in and have it scanned. Oh and you can check the fluid level for both front and rear brakes to make sure it's just not low.

Here's a link to the video.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the tips. I will try them to see if it resolves the issue. The bike only has 8000km (5000 miles) so I was surprised to see the ABS light come on, but I guess with all the electronics there is always the possibility of early failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, so far I have removed the battery and disconnected both front and rear ABS sensors and they are clean. Unfortunately I forgot to take my key with me so I can't check to see if ABS sensor stayed off. So after I removed the seat and removed battery I got carried away and took off the tank, the crash bar in order to remove plastic shrouds to trace ABS sensor wire at the front. Half the bike is apart, but that is fine, I learn as I go.

One thing I noticed on this bike being fuel injected is the is no fuel shutoff (petcock) on the tank just 2 hose. It will suck to say the least to drain it without siphoning most of the fuel out and then pulling a hose and spilling some fuel in order to remove the tank completely. I just took the tank and spun it around and set it when the seat would be for now because I had no hose to siphon the almost full tank of fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
UPDATE: I went back tonight and put the battery back in after it sat for a few days and reassembled all the parts I had removed and the ABS light is still on, so it is something else. I hope is is only one of the sensors which would be the cheapest fix.
 

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It's too bad Honda didn't put in some type of diagnostic/error code display for the complex ABS system, but then again that would add to the price of the machine so maybe it's not feasible. I'd be interested in what the dealer uses for a 'scanner' for the ABS on these bikes. If you don't mind asking when you bring it in that would be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Phantomjr for the manual information. I just downloaded it and started to read about the ABS system. It says that the ABS light should come on when key is turned to the on position and the light will stay on until the bike has reached or exceeded 10km/h or 6 mph and if the system pre-checks properly it will go out. If it detects an error it will either blink or stay on. I just got the bike and due to winter roads, I have not been able to ride it to get it over the necessary speed. I assumed like a car/truck if the light is one there is a problem. I will get a motorcycle jack to raise the bike (since there is no center stand) and get it over 10km/h to see if it is actually an issue or not.

If it wasn't for the service manual I would have never thought it was designed this way. I may not have an ABS issue after all. When I was going some other work on the bike I noticed a 3 prong male connector inside a rubber boot just in front of the battery cover. I figured it must be the computer diagnostic connector, but it is actually the ABS diagnostic test port. The dealer would connect their scanner to this port to check for errors if there is such. Can't wait to test to see if I actually have an issue. I hope not, it will save me a few hundred dollars I am sure not having to have it scanned and replace part(s).

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, I will update one the next test of running the bike over 10km/h to see if ABS light goes out.

I just ordered a rear rack, saddlebag supports, floorboards, heel shifter, tires and I am going to get a light bar for extra night driving lights. Going to have some work ahead of me. Should be ready for riding once the snow disappears, hope it is soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After jacking the bike and putting it in first gear I was able to spin the front tire fast enough to get over 10 km/h and sure enough the light goes out. No ABS problem means no cost for repairs so maybe more accessories for the bike.

Can't wait to ride, melt snow melt.
 

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Too bad you did waste some time fixing something that wasnt broken. But at least you learned something and now have clean sensors :D

But do me a favor, please do not use the ABS to compensate for poor driving. I cant tell you how many people ive heard say "itll stop faster, it has ABS". Tests may 'show' this to be somewhat possible, but in real world situations it just aint so. ABS doesnt make the brakes more powerful, they make then ANTI LOCK brakes :)

Learn to come to a complete emergency stop without it intervening. Youll be better off for it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I agree on the use of ABS brakes. I have never thought or considered ABS brakes to be a big influence on stop-ability. It provides enhanced braking on unstable surfaces like hydroplaning or on ice, but just how much better are they. I have had many instances of sliding on ice in my car and even with the anti-lock brakes surging, it didn't seem to make much if any significant stopping distance.

When I ride, I leave plenty of space when braking so I am not put in a situation that requires hard/threshold braking, after all when riding we already have the odds stacked against us with automobiles cutting us off or worse because they didn't see us.

It will be interesting at the least to see what ABS brakes on a bike are really like.
 
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