Oh wow, this is quite useful as this is my first chain driven bike. I’ve always had shaft drive motorcycles and while I’m sure I can learn to shorten a chain and rear sprocket, I do find it a bit intimidating. Changing the front sprocket does seem a lot easier. I’d be curious to see how it works out for you once you install it. I may continue to run the stock setup for a few more weeks as I’ve gotten used to it but I do plan on taking longer trips on it and I’m hoping to do the sprocket change for that. Anyways. Thanks for the help and the information. It’s much appreciated.
Shortening is straightforward, I've done it without a chain breaker using Capt. D's method of grind pins on one side, drive them out with a punch. But shortening is a one way operation, not many riders will recommend increasing chain length with more than one master link, or have the confidence to peen a chain pin at home.
Honda says "riveted master link only", but I've ignored that advice and use a clipped link. Riveted is safer, if you do a good job. A buddy had a riveted link on his Sportster, but apparently he didn't do such a good job because the chain separated at high speed. He was lucky and didn't get hurt, but the chain shattered the engine case and locked up the engine.
Clipped master links are easier and simpler to install, but if the clip comes loose, very bad. Clipped links were always good enough in 40 years of riding, and I don't see anything different about the VLX than any of those bikes, so I elected to go with a clipped link at my last chain replacement.
A clipped link will also make sprocket changeover, and rear wheel removal easier. I can separate the chain instead of moving the rear wheel far forward to create slack. I had my front and rear sprockets off, and the front came off impressively easy, with the front sprocket cover being apparently designed for quick removal with no special tools.
Changing just one tooth, at the front is attractive for cross country to me, because I can run stock and oversize, and probably one tooth undersize, all with the same chain length. I can put my low ratio front sprocket in my saddlebag ride the distance with "long" ratio and change it over in 20 minutes at my destination to "short" ratio for local riding, getting the best of both worlds. Wouldn't want to try that with a 2nd chain and big/heavy rear sprocket. Luggage space on my VLX is pretty limited to begin with.
Years ago, I changed sprockets for a trip all around the US on my CB450K4, and I found myself in San Francisco with a big front sprocket and hadn't thought to bring the stock sprocket. Starting from a stop on those San Fran hills involved some excessive and worrisome clutch slipping and I was a long way from home.
If you are considering a 17T from the source I linked to in my other thread, be aware that they were out of stock in the 525 chain width size for half a year before coming available again recently, and they are showing only 2 available. You can run a 520 sprocket, but it's narrower, which isn't ideal, mainly because it allows the chain a little lateral movement which could possibly interfere with engine case or components. The Pro-Tek 17T sprocket looks to be good quality steel. Maybe I'll get time to install it tomorrow.
Front sprockets, other than stock 16T, seem to be a bit of a rare thing, probably because the model has been out of production for more than a decade.
