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Discussion Starter #21
I was just watching a video on why bikes back fire, and it said that there's back firing which are from the carbs, and 'After firing' which is from the exhausts.
Mine is firing from the exhausts. So, now I am confused. Is it backfiring or after firing? 🤔
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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Afterfire is the common deceleration popping heard from exhaust, backfire is by definition an ignition that goes against the normal flow, so yes back out the intake.
 

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2000 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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The hose is connected to the nipple and the nipple is connected to the hollow rod that's inside the extinguisher and submerged in coolant. But it might be sucking some air through a hole on top which I have blocked with a screw. But I have noticed some coolant leaking from that part. But it's really mild.
That extinguisher is not working as a proper reservoir, exactly like Froth suspected.
 

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2001 Valkyrie I/S
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View attachment 288895 I haven't started the bike since last night, and that is now just with the ignition on. The engine is not even running.
If you just turn on your key and the temp gauge reads half way to the red then you got a bad gauge or sensor or wiring.
 
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That extinguisher is not working as a proper reservoir, exactly like Froth suspected.
The OEM "reservoir" has high/low fill lines to be filled to after purging the air from the system.

And I believe the reservoir is only part of the sysem when the pressure cap is defeated/opened via it's spring as pressure builds.
I fill the reservoir via the syphon tube/hose at the "pressure" cap only because it's easier on my bike.
I also believe there is a small vent hole in the reservoir cap.
The oem siphon hose goes to thge bottom of the reservoir via a molded in fitting.
I would angle cut the end of the DIY siphon hose and push it to the bottom of your DIY reservoir and consider venting the top of the reservoir too.
I could be wrong on both points here and ask others more coolant system experience to post to correct me.
:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I will make a checklist of all the points mentioned and go over them one by one. It could be the wiring as I did some modifications to them. It could be the extinguisher, so I will run the hose directly to submerge it.

What should I be looking for concerning the backfire or afterfire (whichever it is).
 

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I will make a checklist of all the points mentioned and go over them one by one. It could be the wiring as I did some modifications to them. It could be the extinguisher, so I will run the hose directly to submerge it.

What should I be looking for concerning the backfire or afterfire (whichever it is).
I don't know if you have determined if the fan is running/turning on but I described test for that in this other overheating thread.

I'm not much help on the "backfire" and confused by the discriptions mentioned (backfire/afterfire).
I stopped the common crackle on deceleration by shimming the needle on my single carb bike.
I'll re-read your posts here for your discription of what you called "backfiring" for what happening for YOU and might be asking you for info.
:)
Edit: sounds like your b ike's fan is running...so nevermind :oops:
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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If that wire from the sender is shorted it will full scale the gauge with just key on.
 

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Two more points related to over heating...

So after looking at your pics I get what look you are going for now, I guess it would be "Rat Bike".
I've seen enough rat rods to know stock elements are usually replaced with something uncommon, ie a shifter mounted outside the the drivers door (if it has a door!), brass plumbing hardware, beer can overflo, or in your case a fire extinguisher.

One
I'm not sure what that red square thing on the right side is, under the tank/against the motor, but it could be restricting air flow.

Two
The hose size from the rad to the extinguiser looks to be way bigger than stock.
This could limit the ability of the vacuum to pull coolant from the tank.
I suggest you cut off the internal tank tube, drill out the passage way/elbow to accept a hose similar in size to the stock hose.
I understand the big hose wrapped in red you have now is a design element, so to keep it, thread the smaller/stock size hose thru the big hose/thru the drilled out elbow and down close to the tank bottom.
And angle cut the hose so it doesn't sucked onto the bottom of the tank.
:)
Edit: oh on the hose size but think that aluminum tube inside the extinguiser has a bigger ID than the stock tube and why I mentioned cutting it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Two more points related to over heating...

So after looking at your pics I get what look you are going for now, I guess it would be "Rat Bike".
I've seen enough rat rods to know stock elements are usually replaced with something uncommon, ie a shifter mounted outside the the drivers door (if it has a door!), brass plumbing hardware, beer can overflo, or in your case a fire extinguisher.

One
I'm not sure what that red square thing on the right side is, under the tank/against the motor, but it could be restricting air flow.

Two
The hose size from the rad to the extinguiser looks to be way bigger than stock.
This could limit the ability of the vacuum to pull coolant from the tank.
I suggest you cut off the internal tank tube, drill out the passage way/elbow to accept a hose similar in size to the stock hose.
I understand the big hose wrapped in red you have now is a design element, so to keep it, thread the smaller/stock size hose thru the big hose/thru the drilled out elbow and down close to the tank bottom.
And angle cut the hose so it doesn't sucked onto the bottom of the tank.
:)
The hose is actually the stock hose, I just wrapped thin wire around it and painted it red. But there could be a slight leak. So I will see if I can drill the top hole bigger to run the hose all the way down.
The red box on the side is a wooden box wrapped with patches of rusted metal, and it houses the fuse box and wires.

Initially I made one from metal but that was not big enough to house all the wires and the fuse box. As I was thinking what else to do, my eye fell on a small box of grapes, I said 'why not?'. So I made that one from plywood.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I was just reading something on causes of backfires, and it mentioned that running too rich or lean could cause backfires. (I am sure you gentlemen already know that) but I am just learning as I go. I used to ride bikes back in the days, but never owned one.
I noticed the fuel filter that's between the ****pit and the fuel pump it doesn't get fully filled. Could it be that the pump is sucking air that's causing the backfire?
 

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I was just reading something on causes of backfires, and it mentioned that running too rich or lean could cause backfires. (I am sure you gentlemen already know that) but I am just learning as I go. I used to ride bikes back in the days, but never owned one.
I noticed the fuel filter that's between the ****pit and the fuel pump it doesn't get fully filled. Could it be that the pump is sucking air that's causing the backfire?
Usually just removing the mufflers will cause miner drivabiliy problems. remove/messing with the air box will cause MAJOR drivability issues and a rabbit hole you don't want to go down if you can avoid.
Just removing the airbox snorkel if it has one, will get you sputtering, reduced power, slow to rev, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I don't mind cutting it down on power, as I feel 750cc is too strong of a bike for my riding skills. The last bike I rode 20 years ago was a 350cc. I took out the stock air system, but kept the element holder and use it as air filter. I have made changes to the bike but kept most of the stock parts.
 

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By removing the airbox you have reduced the ventury affect and created increased air flow.
Taping over about half of the filter length might get better drivability and avoid going done that jet rabbit hole.
Something that's adjustable/cheap and you could use RED duct tape to go along with your RED color scheme o_O
If your plan is just ride to bike nights ok but a bike that bogs or spudders is not good for riding in traffic, regardless of "power".
Restricting the air is way cheaper to do than increasing the gas, other options to reduce the air flow are putting a big washer with a smaller than carb center hole between the filter and carb, and my favorite stretching 1 or more wool socks over the airfilter...you could use RED socks (y)
jmo
:D
 

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Discussion Starter #36
By removing the airbox you have reduced the ventury affect and created increased air flow.
Taping over about half of the filter length might get better drivability and avoid going done that jet rabbit hole.
Something that's adjustable/cheap and you could use RED duct tape to go along with your RED color scheme o_O
If your plan is just ride to bike nights ok but a bike that bogs or spudders is not good for riding in traffic, regardless of "power".
Restricting the air is way cheaper to do than increasing the gas, other options to reduce the air flow are putting a big washer with a smaller than carb center hole between the filter and carb, and my favorite stretching 1 or more wool socks over the airfilter...you could use RED socks (y)
jmo
:D
I just want a bike to get back in practice. So far I have become a better mechanic than rider.
As for the air system, I have actually restricted the air flow by narrowing down, and using the element holder as filter, which further restricts the air intake. (That's what I am hoping that I have done).
I checked the tachometer, it happened that I had crossed wired it. Now it seems to be working fine.
Next I have to drill a hole for the reservoir hose to run all the way down to the extinguisher. I started it up, there was no firing so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
288972

Latest updates:
I didn't want to make a hole on the extinguisher, and the top is too thick to drill. So I change the entire thing with a propane canister, drilled a hole on top and ran the hose all the way down. Seems to be working.. but I got another issue now.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The bike seems to run too weak. The carbs are rebuilt and clean. It was running fine before, but now with 3 turns out on the pilot screw, and the idle screw almost a quarter in, it struggles between 900 and 1000 rpm.
288973


What have I messed up this time?
The battery is an old battery and it's drained out, I use a booster to start the bike. Could the weak battery causing it to run weak?
 

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The bike seems to run too weak. The carbs are rebuilt and clean. It was running fine before, but now with 3 turns out on the pilot screw, and the idle screw almost a quarter in, it struggles between 900 and 1000 rpm. View attachment 288973

What have I messed up this time?
The battery is an old battery and it's drained out, I use a booster to start the bike. Could the weak battery causing it to run weak?
By "seems to run weak" and "it struggles between 900 and 1000 rpm" does it stumble/pop/ or just not rev??
And was "it was running fine before", when before?, why are you still messing with it?

I don't really understand how putting the filter element back on/without the foam could be restricting the air flow.
Why not try some tape as I suggested earlier, it would take a few minutes and cost nothing.

I see where no one else is responding here anymore.
You have so far ignored most of my advise and gone off doing other things that did nothing.
Turning the mixture/idle screws in and out will not fix anything for you and now you are questioning the battery.

I'm gonna have to bow out it this point and let you continue on without anymore input from me.
good luck on your quest,
:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
By "seems to run weak" and "it struggles between 900 and 1000 rpm" does it stumble/pop/ or just not rev??
And was "it was running fine before", when before?, why are you still messing with it?

I don't really understand how putting the filter element back on/without the foam could be restricting the air flow.
Why not try some tape as I suggested earlier, it would take a few minutes and cost nothing.

I see where no one else is responding here anymore.
You have so far ignored most of my advise and gone off doing other things that did nothing.
Turning the mixture/idle screws in and out will not fix anything for you and now you are questioning the battery.

I'm gonna have to bow out it this point and let you continue on without anymore input from me.
good luck on your quest,
:confused:
Oh boy!🤷🏽‍♂️
It doesn't rev like before, as it was doing yesterday and all this time while I was focused on the overheat issue. It's idles for five minutes and then shuts off. It had no intentions of messing with anything else. I just wanted to change the reservoir canister (as suggested) but the bike threw this new thing at me.
This element cover is with its original foam and the inner part.
 
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