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83 Shadow VT750 overheating and temp gauge issues

3K views 66 replies 10 participants last post by  Troy Jollimore 
#1 ·
So, I finally fixed every other issue that the bike could throw at me. But now I am having an issue with the bike running very hot from the first minute, after I changed coolant. And the temperature gauge keeps going up even with just the ignition on. With the engine on, the needle goes way past the red zone. The fan works fine as it does come on, I did the bleeding as well. I can't quite understand what's going on with it now.
 
#46 · (Edited)
Updates on the after fire.
I fired up the bike on open carbs, let it warm up. At first when I would cover the left side carb mouth with my hand (not fully covering it) the bike revved up, but when I did the same thing to the right side, the rmp dropped.
I put back the air box and took it for a round, it didn't after fire much. Now after the bike is warm, When I try to cover the right side carb mouth, it reves up. But when I do the same to the left side carb, there's a suction and I get fuel on my hand. And left side exhaust is not as hot as the right side.
And I have to keep the throttle idle screw way turned up to maintain the rpm on 1000
 
#48 ·
No, I did not sync the carbs. I didn't separate the two carbs when I opened them to clean them.
But I found the problem. There's a vacuum leak in one of the intake boots.
I had some PL construction glue at hand that I used, and it fixed the problem for the time. I will open it up tomorrow after work and see if I can seal it with something. Any suggestions?
 
#49 ·
Don’t you just love problems that move around? White smoke at startup can be one of two things, condensation burning out of the exhaust, or you’re leaking a little coolant into the cylinder which then burns off. Which boot was leaking? Left side exhaust being cooler could be that coolant leak, or a much richer mixture. It’s a pain, but you need to find and solve the issue of each carb/cylinder first. Then make sure they’re synced.
 
#50 · (Edited)
As I have said it, I am becoming a better mechanic with this bike than a rider. I am hoping it's not a coolant leak. It's the left boot that has the leak. And when I covered up where it seemed to be leaking from, I had both sides running equally warm, and that fixed the after firing issue to a certain level. So I am assuming, and hoping that it's just that boot leak that's causing all the current issues.
289102
 
#51 ·
There should be no coolant at the carb boots. Unless the cylinder is full of coolant, or running down from above. That may be someones sealer on there.
 
#57 ·
View attachment 289108 This is where the core of my problem lies. Well, at least it's not a coolant leak, eh!✌
Could JB weld fix this?🤷🏽‍♂️
You either need a cylinder head or a really experienced TIG welder that’s stubborn enough to let you leave the head on and try the weld.

I would NOT JB weld that, you take a bad bump or something doesn’t cure right and you’re sucking chunks of metal into the cylinder and it’s only going to be ugly after that. Really ideally the head should be removed even for a weld repair on that part, this isn’t a “make it work” scenario this is a “fix it right or not at all” scenario.
 
#53 ·
You could try jb, if you going to keep the bike for a while I would consider another head.
 
#65 ·
What happened to the teeth???
But if the case is not damaged behind the gears where the support shafts hold them it isn't so bad. The gears can be replaced easily, not the engine case.
 
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