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Discussion Starter #1
Hello I done created a headache for myself taking my clutch apart to replace the friction plates. I reassembled it 6 times now and it's still not right. I'll shift in to every gear and the bike will just roll around as if it's in neutral! I know the friction plates I got are for this bike and I followed directions as the manual showed but I can not figure what's wrong. I'm curious if the clutch rod is supposed to be free and loose or of it supposed to have a bit tension to it when the clutch slave is bolted on. I'm getting ready to just bring it to a shop but thought I'd ask you guys first to save myself some money, Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The last washer you install is slightly cupped. If you put it on backwards, this will happen.
That what I figured so i flipped it and the same thing happens! BTWot has a smaller washer as well and maybe I'm putting that one in the wrong spot? Thanks for the reply
 

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Hey Trvalle94, I did the clutch on my 1983 VT750C last year, I thought I had some pictures but I can't seem to find them.

Suggestion, disconnect the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder, so there is no pressure on the clutch. Then see if the bike will roll in gear. If it won't roll, you clutch plates are working. If it does roll in gear, the plates are messed up. While you have the slave cylinder off, it's a good time to check it out and clean it if needed.

-andy
 

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Did you remember the thermal washer that sits under the clutch slave. It's about 1/8" thick. Without it your slave will be pushing the clutch pushrod as soon as you tighten it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey Trvalle94, I did the clutch on my 1983 VT750C last year, I thought I had some pictures but I can't seem to find them.

Suggestion, disconnect the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder, so there is no pressure on the clutch. Then see if the bike will roll in gear. If it won't roll, you clutch plates are working. If it does roll in gear, the plates are messed up. While you have the slave cylinder off, it's a good time to check it out and clean it if needed.


I will try that out that you , the clutch rod does seem really stiff when the slave is bolted down

-andy
Did you remember the thermal washer that sits under the clutch slave. It's about 1/8" thick. Without it your slave will be pushing the clutch pushrod as soon as you tighten it down.
I don't think I put that back on, does it come off when I pull the slave off I do not remember a washer coming off with if on other thing connected to a bolt looked to be a bracket that held some wires next to it



Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Trvalle94, I did the clutch on my 1983 VT750C last year, I thought I had some pictures but I can't seem to find them.

Suggestion, disconnect the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder, so there is no pressure on the clutch. Then see if the bike will roll in gear. If it won't roll, you clutch plates are working. If it does roll in gear, the plates are messed up. While you have the slave cylinder off, it's a good time to check it out and clean it if needed.

-andy
I'll be sure to try that out thank you
 

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Attached are pics of the "insulator" and the exploded view of the clutch slave. The insulator (thermal gasket) is about 1/8" thick and fits between the clutch slave and engine case/cover. Its purpose is to insulate the slave from engine heat, since if the clutch fluid gets too hot, it will lose its hydraulic "push" and you clutch won't release. If you forget to put it on, the slave piston mates up right against the pushrod and you lose 1/8" of slack, with the piston engaging the pushrod and releasing the clutch as soon as you tighten the slave down to the case. But, maybe yours doesn't have this. Just a thought. but that might be the problem if your test of loosening the slave allows the clutch to engage and the bike resists pushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Attached are pics of the "insulator" and the exploded view of the clutch slave. The insulator (thermal gasket) is about 1/8" thick and fits between the clutch slave and engine case/cover. Its purpose is to insulate the slave from engine heat, since if the clutch fluid gets too hot, it will lose its hydraulic "push" and you clutch won't release. If you forget to put it on, the slave piston mates up right against the pushrod and you lose 1/8" of slack, with the piston engaging the pushrod and releasing the clutch as soon as you tighten the slave down to the case. But, maybe yours doesn't have this. Just a thought. but that might be the problem if your test of loosening the slave allows the clutch to engage and the bike resists pushing.
Ya I checked my manual out and it does show I need the insulator. Never had it on I just ordered one. I'll be sure to throw that on right away thanks for the info this site is great! I could tell every time I mounted the slave the push rod would be engaged and be stiff on the clutch side. I'm sure that is the problem I'm having.

Again thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Attached are pics of the "insulator" and the exploded view of the clutch slave. The insulator (thermal gasket) is about 1/8" thick and fits between the clutch slave and engine case/cover. Its purpose is to insulate the slave from engine heat, since if the clutch fluid gets too hot, it will lose its hydraulic "push" and you clutch won't release. If you forget to put it on, the slave piston mates up right against the pushrod and you lose 1/8" of slack, with the piston engaging the pushrod and releasing the clutch as soon as you tighten the slave down to the case. But, maybe yours doesn't have this. Just a thought. but that might be the problem if your test of loosening the slave allows the clutch to engage and the bike resists pushing.
Ya I checked my manual out and it does show I need the insulator. Never had it on I just ordered one. I'll be sure to throw that on right away thanks for the info this site is great! I could tell every time I mounted the slave the push rod would be engaged and be stiff on the clutch side. I'm sure that is the problem I'm having.

Again thank you
Any other ideas why it would keep clicking back to neutral? Even with the slave off I can tell the clutch is messed up when I push the rod in it feels like it's all loose
 

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If you take the bolts out of the slave, the clutch should be as tightly engaged as it can be. So if you put it in gear and try to roll it, it should not move but slide the rear wheel.

If the shifter is not selecting gears properly the 2 shift shafts are not aligned.
That can happen when you take the side cover off for clutch repairs.
 

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I had tbe same thing happen to my 84 VT700 after disassembly several times I added a uses friction disc to the stack worked perfect and its been over a year
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you take the bolts out of the slave, the clutch should be as tightly engaged as it can be. So if you put it in gear and try to roll it, it should not move but slide the rear wheel.

If the shifter is not selecting gears properly the 2 shift shafts are not aligned.
That can happen when you take the side cover off for clutch repairs.
That very well may be my problem, ya I have the slave off and it just rolls around when I shift it, and when I mess with the clutch rod on the slave side and push it in I can hear and feel the clutch is all loose and not stiff at all, how exactly do I align the shift shaft's? My manual only shows how to disassemble the whole thing which is something I'd rather not do if I don't need to. Thanks for the info you been a big help
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had tbe same thing happen to my 84 VT700 after disassembly several times I added a uses friction disc to the stack worked perfect and its been over a year
Now how did you manage that? It looks like I wouldn't be able to add another friction plate to the stack and wouldn't you need to add another steel plate too? I'd like to know exactly what you did it be a big help to me thank you
 

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You probably need to pull the right cover off anyway. There is a opening under the clutch area you can peek into to see the 2 shift rod teeth assemblies, and you can line them up in their centers. With the cover off find out why the clutch is not tight with the slave rod unloaded.
The plates should be under pressure .
Did the lock nut go back into the same position as before on the threads? It can be possible the clutch basket has pulled out of the 4 dowel pins in the rear for the one way clutch and not be sitting all the way onto the transmission input shaft.
 

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You probably need to pull the right cover off anyway. There is a opening under the clutch area you can peek into to see the 2 shift rod teeth assemblies, and you can line them up in their centers. With the cover off find out why the clutch is not tight with the slave rod unloaded.
The plates should be under pressure .
Did the lock nut go back into the same position as before on the threads? It can be possible the clutch basket has pulled out of the 4 dowel pins in the rear for the one way clutch and not be sitting all the way onto the transmission input shaft.
Or put the B sprag in backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You saiQUOTEd it will roll while in gear, was this going forward only or forward and backwards?
It will roll forward and backward. When I shift in to a gear and start to roll it I hear a little click as if it put itself back to neutral
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You probably need to pull the right cover off anyway. There is a opening under the clutch area you can peek into to see the 2 shift rod teeth assemblies, and you can line them up in their centers. With the cover off find out why the clutch is not tight with the slave rod unloaded.
The plates should be under pressure .
Did the lock nut go back into the same position as before on the threads? It can be possible the clutch basket has pulled out of the 4 dowel pins in the rear for the one way clutch and not be sitting all the way onto the transmission input shaft.
I'm not too sure I'm putting it on right because it has no pressure at all. O can stick my finger in and move the clutch around it's all loose. I used the right about of disks and thought I kept everything in order. I know the lock washer goes in a certain way and I know it also have a dished shaped washer that faces in but I have to have something wrong here. The manual doesn't show it exact for me it just labels stuff as "washers" it's not very precise. Also I did have the basket come off and I tapped it back on and see the it's back aligned with the main gear on the right side. Never looked at dowel pins. I'm gonna take the whole cover off this time not just the clutch cover. Thanks
 
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