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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all. I accidentally left ignition on "P" instead of "Lock" for a few weeks and subsequently killed a very tired, old leaky battery. This battery was also being overcharged by a bad R/R, which I have replaced.

I have good spark, and compression, known since before this issue. Bike was running quite well.

Replaced battery, bike turns over fine, but is obviously not getting any fuel at all. I come to you all seeking the most likely culprit on a 13,000 mile bike. Bad pump relay? This seems most likely to me. All fuel lines look great, and there is an appropriate amount of fuel in the filter.


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Matt, say it never had a service at 13,000 miles. So top of the head, a two week sitter, add 3 or a month, it's not a fuel problem. Well, it could be, but a fresh set of 4 plugs, one air clear is the interval, kill two birds, if it's all stock it fires right off fresh plugs and can breath again.
 

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It was running good before killing the battery?
Easy test of fuel delivery is to loosen the drain screws on the bottom of each carb and see if 1 or 2 ounces of fuel runs out.
 

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I would chase electric suspects first. Did you check all the fuses? When you first turn on the key, kill switch set to run, you should hear the fuel pump running for a couple of seconds. If not I would diagnose that first.

Eric


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When you crank the engine the pump is supposed to run also.
Crank for 5 or10 seconds, shut off, and loosen the drain screws on the bottom of each carb to see if 1 or 2 ounces of fuel runs out.That telsl about the fuel supply into the carbs.
 
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1. Capture each bowl drain and measure against each other.
2. Bowl screws are still open, I know the floats are equal, no removal needed. Key on and crank.
3. Here I see how fast the fuel runs out, and it's more like tap the start button. Should start moving out of the bowl drain.

Without book, it's more like just guessing. Like a 'hold and a stop' is maybe 6 or 7 full cycles and that should pour out. I'm after a tap out. The less pulses made, the faster it shows out of the bowl drain it gets there. Says the vac is not leaking, says the pump can push that 2lbs quick out the clogged filter.

Only a sparkplug read knows for sure.

Signed,
Page 35 (says the plugs have yet to be pulled) Betting Club
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
1. 1/2 oz fuel left side carb, 1/4 oz fuel right side carb if you're curious

2. I opted to close drain screws fully and and crank. After a few on/off crank sessions zero gas flowed out of either carb drain upon reopening. Not sure what book you are referring to. I do refer to the service manual online.

Without book, it's more like just guessing. Like a 'hold and a stop' is maybe 6 or 7 full cycles and that should pour out. I'm after a tap out. The less pulses made, the faster it shows out of the bowl drain it gets there. Says the vac is not leaking, says the pump can push that 2lbs quick out the clogged filter.



Only a sparkplug read knows for sure.



Signed,

Page 35 (says the plugs have yet to be pulled) Betting Club
The rest of your message is a bit unintelligible and cryptic, but I thank you for it anyway. Your comments prompted/reminded me to buy fresh plugs and install them, as the bike is new to me this season and I always assume the P.O. is a lazy **** who does zero maintenance when I buy a new bike. Which for this bike was absolutely true as the final drive oil came out a deep blue...something I hadn't seen before...

Not sure what you mean by "a spark plug read."

For now I will wait until new fuel pump relay arrives in mail.
 

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Revise: It means by having the bowl screws open, the starter motor turning over the engine, it shows how fast the gas will drain.

Saying the book has a procedure and you followed it, shows no filling of the bowls, then not the plugs at this point. Buy a new fuel filter with the pump coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Revise: It means by having the bowl screws open, the starter motor turning over the engine, it shows how fast the gas will drain.

Saying the book has a procedure and you followed it, shows no filling of the bowls, then not the plugs at this point. Buy a new fuel filter with the pump coming.

Thanks brotha. Yeah I totally spaced buying a new fuel filter with the plugs I bought today. Darn it
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Revise: It means by having the bowl screws open, the starter motor turning over the engine, it shows how fast the gas will drain.

Saying the book has a procedure and you followed it, shows no filling of the bowls, then not the plugs at this point. Buy a new fuel filter with the pump coming.
Well I bypassed the relay to confirm the pump is working and it pumps fine. It turns out I did lose spark somehow. Who knew a simple dead battery could cause me so much anguish and lost time

So I have 4 new spark plugs installed, no spark.
 

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Keep the coils at their mounts, take an ohm meter to the two wires at the back. So say they are two single wires inside the coils. Key on, kill on, I can see the thinner wire burn out on the flat prongs coming out of the coil.

So the idea is to match ohm resistance at both coils. Set to 1x ohm, or 100, it does not matter, you just want to see a number off the crossing of the two prongs to see if that wire cooked the epoxy down so as to melt on another bare wire strand?

Since that's the first side to build up voltage, the wires are thinner, and are waiting for the collapse to the thicker wire side, and that too is one coiled up wire from end to end are those sparkplug wires. You can read that resistance, but the quick and dirty is to ohm both coils at their flat prongs to see if that shows the same reading.

Those coil numbers read?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Also, double-check your Kill switch…
Holy F U C K this was it. I can't f u c k i n g believe it. The kill switch contacts were completely gummed up and black. Thank you kind stranger, another arrow in my quiver for old bike maintenance.

This makes the most sense too, because it was running so good before...and might have been sitting out in a few rainstorms..
 
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