Honda Shadow Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
No Lighting after battery positive touched frame. I just bought it with low miles in immaculate condition. The guy apparently half ass installed an AGM battery and it just stopped on me. After getting it home I found the terminals loose. After recharging the battery I installed it and a bit of chaffing touched the frame. I redid all that and inspected the rest and it looked good. Now it has absolutely no lighting and no switching when key is turned on. The fuses on the side panel box are all 10 amp and are good. The 30 amp on the starter solenoid is good. What do yall think is now blown, the cdi box which Im praying its not or could the starter relay solenoid cause this no nothing symtom? Thanks a lot and any info and help appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,270 Posts
First thing to do is to verify the volts in the battery, you also need to know this number for reference while you chase the problem.

There may be another fuse between the battery and the starter solenoid, look for a bulge in the wire, it most likely will not be in a standard fuse holder. Also check the negative cable for a fuse, same situation as above. Make sure all connections are clean and tight.

You can “chase” the power if you have a multimeter or test light. Start at the battery, on the wire connector not the battery posts, then check every connector along the positive cable. Next go to the fuse block and check for power on each side of every fuse. There are small “****” on the fuse on either side of the fuse amp number where you can check for power on each side of the fuse.

There may be fuses in the headlight bucket as well that you can check. You may be able to find a copy of the service manual for your bike, or close enough, in the Tech section. It should be a sticky thread.

One thing about electrical problems is that connections can pass voltage but not pass much or any amperage. As an example if a connector is corroded you may see voltage beyond it but whatever it powers still does not work (no amps). Also a connector could only be partly connected, the insulating parts could be connecter but the wire connectors are not connected. I actually chased a problem like this for 8 hours when I was building M1068’s, I just happened to see a connecter that was not pushed all the way together.

Hope this helps and when you do find the problem please post back what you find.

Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: madpenguin

·
Registered
1997 Honda Shadow ACE VT1100C2
Joined
·
205 Posts
Check to see if kill switch is off. This still happens to me from time to time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
First thing to do is to verify the volts in the battery, you also need to know this number for reference while you chase the problem.

There may be another fuse between the battery and the starter solenoid, look for a bulge in the wire, it most likely will not be in a standard fuse holder. Also check the negative cable for a fuse, same situation as above. Make sure all connections are clean and tight.

You can “chase” the power if you have a multimeter or test light. Start at the battery, on the wire connector not the battery posts, then check every connector along the positive cable. Next go to the fuse block and check for power on each side of every fuse. There are small “****” on the fuse on either side of the fuse amp number where you can check for power on each side of the fuse.

There may be fuses in the headlight bucket as well that you can check. You may be able to find a copy of the service manual for your bike, or close enough, in the Tech section. It should be a sticky thread.

One thing about electrical problems is that connections can pass voltage but not pass much or any amperage. As an example if a connector is corroded you may see voltage beyond it but whatever it powers still does not work (no amps). Also a connector could only be partly connected, the insulating parts could be connecter but the wire connectors are not connected. I actually chased a problem like this for 8 hours when I was building M1068’s, I just happened to see a connecter that was not pushed all the way together.

Hope this helps and when you do find the problem please post back what you find.

Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just ran a battery test on the agm battery and it load tested good with 13 volts. I ordered a new starter solenoid because that's the first thing in line from the battery. A parts guy at Honda dealership said Cdi could have fried when the wire touched. The previous owner ran the power cable wrong and it Chaffed the sleeve and that's when it blew something because after that I had no lighting or nothing. I would figure someone here has seen this and knows the solution. If it turns out to be Cdi where is the best place to get one. All this due to loose battery connections which causes things to get hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
There is a wire coming from the headlight that was wired to a toggle switch on the side panel and from there the PO had it plugged into a fuse on the fuse panel. I'm not sure what this was for. It does have a modern headlight bulb. The white light type.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
The CDI would not prevent any light from coming on.
Ok so what would cause absolutely nothing. Battery charged and tested good on autozone tester. It's an arm also. It will turn over if I jump the solenoid. Is there more fuses besides the main starter relay and the ones on the side. I've been sick but gonna open head light and have a look the modern headlight wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Not sure because now it's unhooked but the headlight which is a modern bright light type works on dim and bright. However I don't have rear running lights on the signals. I'm not sure if Hondas don't have them running when on. I thought PO wired a toggle to have running and signal lights like the front. For now it's working as it should I believe. Thanks.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top