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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 98 Tourer did not come with a temp gauge. I got tired of the idiot light coming on at unknown temps. So I installed an auto gauge. Just to balance it out, I added the voltmeter. It is a bit rough and I am still tweaking....



This is how it was done.....

Temp Gauge pictures by sonotx - Photobucket
 

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The 98 Tourer did not come with a temp gauge. I got tired of the idiot light coming on at unknown temps. So I installed an auto gauge. Just to balance it out, I added the voltmeter. It is a bit rough and I am still tweaking....
Looks good from riding position! I just love homemade ingenuity! Good job!

looks cool. are the gauges water tight?
Hopefully the "still tweaking" statement contains that notion. ;-)
 

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good work--i think i would go with the electric sensor type gauges, rather than the mechanical type--they have come a long ways in the past few years

also, they make housing cups for the gauges--they are not made water proof, but a little clear rtv in the right spots and viola':mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Working on the 2" pipes to make them watertight and cover the wiring. Also going to look at the tie in with copper tubing to make a neater installation. I have an electric gauge but need to work out the mounting to get into water flow. Not real sure what the deal is with the heating idiot light. This is the second one I have put on it but it does the same as the first. Sometimes it will come on at 180 or 190 or 200... Can't trust them. With a gauge I know where I am. It has been running 190 to 200. I did over heat it when the temp here was 106. New t-stat, hoses are good. rad is clear. Only other thing would be water pump and it appears to be working.
 

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Just for grins I emailed a couple of companies requesting the accuracy specifications of their temp gauges. Let's see if any reply.

In the meantime it looks like you are using a temp gauge that uses a capillary bulb /w line that in turn causes a mechanical movement of the needle by means of the pressure in the line. Unless you paid in excess of $300 for the gauge the accuracy probably sucks. Mechanical gauges are notorious for huge hysteresis curves which directly affects their repeatability. Most of these types of mechanical indicators are more accurate as the reading is "Rising". If you are getting your temp readings as the engine is cooling you could be way off.

High end gauges typically have a +/-1% accuracy of full range. This means that a gauge with a top range of 300 deg F could be off as much as +/- 3 deg F of any given reading which is pretty good for most general applications.

Low end gauges can range from 5% to over 10% of range and if they are really cheap 20%+ is not unheard of.

The short version of where I am going is the typical mechanical auto gauge is slightly better than the idiot light. A digital meter with an RTD sensor is by far more reliable and accurate.
 

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Wow fast response from SunPro. I asked them for accuracy spec on the CP8201 Sunpro®



Their reply>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

+/- 10 degrees at 240 degrees


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just for grins I emailed a couple of companies requesting the accuracy specifications of their temp gauges. Let's see if any reply.

In the meantime it looks like you are using a temp gauge that uses a capillary bulb /w line that in turn causes a mechanical movement of the needle by means of the pressure in the line. Unless you paid in excess of $300 for the gauge the accuracy probably sucks. Mechanical gauges are notorious for huge hysteresis curves which directly affects their repeatability. Most of these types of mechanical indicators are more accurate as the reading is "Rising". If you are getting your temp readings as the engine is cooling you could be way off.

High end gauges typically have a +/-1% accuracy of full range. This means that a gauge with a top range of 300 deg F could be off as much as +/- 3 deg F of any given reading which is pretty good for most general applications.

Low end gauges can range from 5% to over 10% of range and if they are really cheap 20%+ is not unheard of.

The short version of where I am going is the typical mechanical auto gauge is slightly better than the idiot light. A digital meter with an RTD sensor is by far more reliable and accurate.
I can't argue with what you have said. As I said this is ******* engineering. Before I spend a lot of money on a high quality gauge, I had to first prove it could be done. Like I said, I am tweaking the design till I am comfy with it. Besides... I am a cheap [email protected] and 10% is what I had it figured on. The new fan switch is supposed to kick on at 206. When it starts I am showing about 220 0n gauge. As long as the gauge stays under 210 I think I am safe. I will eventually upgrade.
 
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