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Hi everyone. I bought a 2000 Shadow Ace Tourer (VT1100T) in 2001 as a leftover. I ride year round here in northern NJ and just can't find a bike I love more. I have basically kept it bone stock except for a passenger backrest and a chrome front fender tip. It's been great.
I have a question for you fellow Shadow owners. Last summer on the very hottest days and usually only on a ride of more than 1 hour, I started having a problem. Once these conditions are met - hot (80 plus degrees), and a longish ride, it will suddenly stall. It's never predictable. It's as if the kill switch has been thrown. It doesn't stutter like it's running out of gas, it just stalls. I coast to the side of the road and wait. After it sits for about 15 minutes, it starts right up and away you go. I thought it might have been some some kind of vapor lock caused by some blocked tube but have immediately removed the gas cap (mechanic's suggestion) and it made no difference. When you try to restart it before waiting the 15 minutes it just cranks and cranks. No hits at all. After waiting it starts right up as if there were never a problem. Then it may take you home or it may stall again in a few miles and you must wait again. It never happens when it is cooler weather. And I can't seem to make it happen predictably, so it can be more easily diagnosed. The service manager at the dealership says if they can't make it stall, it will be very hard to figure out. I love my bike and would like to do some trips and longer rides again but cannot while I have this problem.
Has anyone heard of this? Any suggestions?
Thanks. I love seeing and meeting other Honda Shadow riders when I'm out and about and haven't met one yet that didn't love his bike.
 

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I've heard of hot stalls like this. Could be an ignition component that goes open circuit when it gets too hot. Could be the ignition coil, ignition module (black box) or the pulse generator. Could also be the fuel pump or relay for the pump going open circuit when hot.

(Edit) Probably should try easier stuff first. Maybe it's a bad switch/connection somewhere. Have you ever had problems with the engine kill switch? Need to wiggle, on-off to start? Common shadow problem, easy to take apart the switch and clean/lube - search the forum for "kill switch clean". Another thing to try first is get the bike all warmed up, go through all connectors (coils, pulse generator, ign. module, fuel pump, etc. and wiggle them while engine is running. Feel if any of the connectors is hot, may be a loose/dirty connection. Also might try wiggling connectors for the safety switches - neutral, sidestand, clutch, etc.

Unfortunately, it needs to be diagnosed when it happens. It's a pain to do on the side of the road, but that's when it's not working, so that's when it needs to be diagnosed. First thing would be to pull a plug, re-attach the plug wire, hold the metal body of the plug against the metal engine, and crank the starter (with the run switch on) to see if you're getting spark. If there's spark, probably the fuel pump, or something fuel related.

If no spark, then it's probably ignition. Then you'd need to start testing the ignition components one by one to determine what's bad when hot. If you have a manual, it tells how to check each component. All test should be able to be done with a multimeter. The only problematic test would be the ignition module, there's no real test except swapping with a known good one. Or, if it IS HEAT RELATED, bring along a cold-pack to cool it down quickly and see if it works.

Gumpy
 

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Gumpy is right on. Bring a spare spark plug with you when you ride on a day where you expect problems. As soon as it stalls, and you get off the road, disconnect one plug wire from a spark plug, and connect it to the spare that you brought. The hold the plug up against the engine and crank it over. That way, you'll know whether you need to be troubleshooting a fuel problem or an ignition issue.

--Justin
 

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I think I've seen this before and it was a cracked coil. When it got hot enough, the crack widened enough to cause the problem. As suggested, checking for spark when you experience the problem should confirm if it is an ignition/spark issue. Good luck.... no one likes to be stopped and troubleshooting problems on the side of the road, but that may be what it takes.
JimC in NC
 
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