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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have been putting off this issue for a while. We are almost roadworthy except for the dang blinkers. I had led in the front and regular bulbs in the back, the right rear bulb was blown, so when I turned on right blinker only right front would work. By turning on left blinker ( led in front, bulb in rear) all working blinkers, except blown rear right bulb, would flash a normal flash, not fast, normal speed. I have swapped the flasher relay for a custom LED elfr-1 led flasher relay. I have also tried putting inline led load equalizers to no avail. At this point I might just mount painted flashlights on to use as blinkers. If anyone has any advice or can point me in the right direction it would be very appreciated.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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If you have a single indicator bulb on the dash for the turn signals, it back feeds the other side when you have one side on. Many guys have a trick with 2 diodes that fixes it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you have a single indicator bulb on the dash for the turn signals, it back feeds the other side when you have one side on. Many guys have a trick with 2 diodes that fixes it.

So one diode kit would cure the whole bike? Or would I need more? Thankyou for your time!
 

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2003 VT1100C Spirit
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Here's what I used...
Kuryakyn Diode Kit

Here's the kit installed...
Cable Electrical wiring Computer hardware Magenta Electronic component


The Kuryakyn kit comes with instructions.

In the meantime, you can replace both front or both rear blinkers with the old bulbs and the system should work properly. Also, you shouldn't need the resisters. They're for equalizing the load for a standard flasher relay.
 

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Been several write-ups on this in the last 6 months. do a search of the forum. The kit is just 2 diodes, some heat-shrink tubing and a couple feet of wire. Practically any diode rated for 1 amp and 12V or more will work. An industry standard 1N4002 diode is plenty heavy-duty enough.
 

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2013 Honda Shadow Phantom 750
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The first step would be to replace the burned out bulb in the rear. Then put standard bulbs in the front. If all works then just do the diode fix. Oh yeah,,,get rid of the load resisters, they negate the benefit of the power savings of LED’s.

I just bought some diodes at Radio Shack and soldered them in, no need to spend extra money for the same thing wrapped in plastic with general instructions. There is plenty of info on the forum to do this, that is where i got the info to do it about four years ago.

Eric


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I wired the diode kit in using the picture D’s spirit shared on this thread, and the left blinker worked fine. The headlight and tail light blinked instead of the right blinker... after removing diode kit and connecting wires back with their mates all blinkers worked as they should. Weird. Thought I was out of the woods but that wasn’t the case, we are back to all four blinkers blinking at the same time. My new question is if I disconnect the single indicator light would this problem continue? Or would that make the blinkers not work at all? Taping painted flashlights on the bike to use as blinkers is starting to not seem like such a bad idea.
 

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The headlight should not have been involved (unless it was used as a ground point?, wrong wire ? )

Normally, the turn signal indicator had a power wire on either side, and used the non-working side's filament as a path to ground. the filament only adds a few ohms of resistance to the circuit.. So you put a diode in each wire going to the indicator, silver band toward the indicator, then tie both those wires to the same contac or wire to on the indicator, then ground the other side of the indicator. the diodes act as one-way current check valves in this setup. keep them from cross-feeding.

Some of the aftermarket LED lamps still have an issue as they used the same LED's for run and turn, just routed the run wire through a resistor internally to dim them, bypassed it for turn to make it brighter. On those, you need to add a diode to each turn signal wire at each turn signal assembly or somewhere in the path, whichever is easier, again silver band (negative end - direction of flow towards ground) to keep them from backfeeding to the other side. .
 

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And there's a newer type of aftermarket turn signal out that has it's own sequential flasher built in, so you might need to bypass the factory flasher completely, just jump the power wire to the wire leading to the turn signal switch, cap off the 3rd wire.
 

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And there's a newer type of aftermarket turn signal out that has it's own sequential flasher built in, so you might need to bypass the factory flasher completely, just jump the power wire to the wire leading to the turn signal switch, cap off the 3rd wire.
Since there are no Radio Shacks near me I splurged on the $10. Diode kit from Kuryakyn (Part # 4708) to isolate the L/R blinkers. After solving that, a replacement LED flasher was needed to solve hyper flash.

The stock flasher is located just behind the fork, on the left side (just in front of the gas tank). Simply remove the plastic panel (couple of screws) and play go fish(ing) for it. Helps to buy one with compatible plug, there are cheap Chinese ones $10 on Amazon (only 2 wires needed, not stock 3-wire). Had great luck with CustomLED (Part # ELFR-1). You can use a wire tie to zip it to the harness (or frame) before putting the cover back on.

Between the single diode kit (properly installed) and the LED flasher replacement, your problems should be solved…

(But I did duct tape a flashlight to my mast when a fried alternator took out the electrical system on my boat one night). LOL… 😝
 

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Question...when all the bulbs are replaced on the bike this lightens the electric need/load on the charging system. Since the regulator sends excess voltage to ground which also equals heat, isnt this hard on the reg/rectifier?
I changed just the brake and rear turns and added rear running to try to bring the system closer to factory load specs. Is my thinking correct?
 

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Question...when all the bulbs are replaced on the bike this lightens the electric need/load on the charging system. Since the regulator sends excess voltage to ground which also equals heat, isnt this hard on the reg/rectifier?
I changed just the brake and rear turns and added rear running to try to bring the system closer to factory load specs. Is my thinking correct?
Since there are no Radio Shacks near me I splurged on the $10. Diode kit from Kuryakyn (Part # 4708) to isolate the L/R blinkers. After solving that, a replacement LED flasher was needed to solve hyper flash.

The stock flasher is located just behind the fork, on the left side (just in front of the gas tank). Simply remove the plastic panel (couple of screws) and play go fish(ing) for it. Helps to buy one with compatible plug, there are cheap Chinese ones $10 on Amazon (only 2 wires needed, not stock 3-wire). Had great luck with CustomLED (Part # ELFR-1). You can use a wire tie to zip it to the harness (or frame) before putting the cover back on.

Between the single diode kit (properly installed) and the LED flasher replacement, your problems should be solved…

(But I did duct tape a flashlight to my mast when a fried alternator took out the electrical system on my boat one night). LOL… 😝
Kash,

You bring up an excellent question, and I am still learning as I go…

My problem was recurring dead batteries, so lightening the electric load was my way to un-tax the Stator (so my battery doesn’t die while driving my bike).

I am neither an electrical engineer nor a certified mechanic, unfortunately not in a position to give you a definitive answer (but look for feedback from others more highly skilled in this).

Guess that I can now add 2,400 watt Darla LED’s to my fork (or crash bars), charge my iPhone, and maybe even run heated riding gear next winter.

Time will tell… but let’s see what others about your question say in the peanut gallery…
 

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Question...when all the bulbs are replaced on the bike this lightens the electric need/load on the charging system. Since the regulator sends excess voltage to ground which also equals heat, isnt this hard on the reg/rectifier?
I changed just the brake and rear turns and added rear running to try to bring the system closer to factory load specs. Is my thinking correct?
Well, yes,,, but brake and turn signals are intermittent loads anyway. 4 running lights normal incandescent draw is only around 12-20w, depending on bulb. The old 1034 dual filament was rated to draw 3w for running and 21w for turn/brake. The newer stuff is a couple watts higher on each filament Think the Shadow stators are rated around 300 watts output, I do not know just how much of that 300 is needed for ignition and ICU and fuel pump. Maybe add up the fuses and subtract 20-25%? Just be aware of what you're changing, LED headlights could drop the load considerably more, depending on specific unit, I've seen some anywhere from really low watt LED up to what the original headlight draws.

The much larger, heavier duty Shindengen SH775 or FH020 R/R units can handle pretty much anything you throw at them if you have room for one.

I suppose a good test would be to feel the heat sink on your R/R after a highway run, see if it's hot or not... Sportbike riders were switching to the FH020 Mosfet type as they run cooler than the SHxxx series type. with the R/R mounted up under their bodywork they were melting expensive plastic. Maybe because they switched to LEDs? Or were running at 9000 rpm a lot? Who knows...

Edit: Watts =Volts x Amps.
 
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So I have been putting off this issue for a while. We are almost roadworthy except for the dang blinkers. I had led in the front and regular bulbs in the back, the right rear bulb was blown, so when I turned on right blinker only right front would work. By turning on left blinker ( led in front, bulb in rear) all working blinkers, except blown rear right bulb, would flash a normal flash, not fast, normal speed. I have swapped the flasher relay for a custom LED elfr-1 led flasher relay. I have also tried putting inline led load equalizers to no avail. At this point I might just mount painted flashlights on to use as blinkers. If anyone has any advice or can point me in the right direction it would be very appreciated.
So I have been putting off this issue for a while. We are almost roadworthy except for the dang blinkers. I had led in the front and regular bulbs in the back, the right rear bulb was blown, so when I turned on right blinker only right front would work. By turning on left blinker ( led in front, bulb in rear) all working blinkers, except blown rear right bulb, would flash a normal flash, not fast, normal speed. I have swapped the flasher relay for a custom LED elfr-1 led flasher relay. I have also tried putting inline led load equalizers to no avail. At this point I might just mount painted flashlights on to use as blinkers. If anyone has any advice or can point me in the right direction it would be very appreciated.
You’ve probably got this sorted out by now. Not sure if this will help or not, I had similar issues with mine only it was the back lights that were acting crazy. First off, I discovered that I’m a little colour blind and had mixed up a connection when I wired mine it. Props to my six year old son for pointing out what I couldn’t see. While doing this I also had the fronts disconnected nothing worked right. Once I reconnected all the fronts, and had corrected the wiring mishap in the rear the system worked perfectly. I would say replace the bulb for a start it may be disrupting the way the circuit operates. Like having the fronts undone in my case. Failing that, check all the connectors.
I figured mine out with little pain and I have limited experience with such things.
 

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Question...when all the bulbs are replaced on the bike this lightens the electric need/load on the charging system. Since the regulator sends excess voltage to ground which also equals heat, isnt this hard on the reg/rectifier?
I changed just the brake and rear turns and added rear running to try to bring the system closer to factory load specs. Is my thinking correct?
I looked into this a good bit before changing my bulbs to LED. I simply added the wattage for all of the stock bulbs, including the headlight, and even the intermittent bulbs (turn signals, high beam indicator and TS indicator) for the stock incandescent bulbs. Then did the same for all the LED bulbs. There was enough of a difference that I was able to add an auxiliary set of tail/brake lights, two LED fog lights and two LED driving lights to my bike. Since the driving and fog lights would not be on at the same time I only counted them once.

This was the simplest way for me to compare the loads and I have had no issues for six years.

Eric


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