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Been several write-ups on this in the last 6 months. do a search of the forum. The kit is just 2 diodes, some heat-shrink tubing and a couple feet of wire. Practically any diode rated for 1 amp and 12V or more will work. An industry standard 1N4002 diode is plenty heavy-duty enough.
 

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The headlight should not have been involved (unless it was used as a ground point?, wrong wire ? )

Normally, the turn signal indicator had a power wire on either side, and used the non-working side's filament as a path to ground. the filament only adds a few ohms of resistance to the circuit.. So you put a diode in each wire going to the indicator, silver band toward the indicator, then tie both those wires to the same contac or wire to on the indicator, then ground the other side of the indicator. the diodes act as one-way current check valves in this setup. keep them from cross-feeding.

Some of the aftermarket LED lamps still have an issue as they used the same LED's for run and turn, just routed the run wire through a resistor internally to dim them, bypassed it for turn to make it brighter. On those, you need to add a diode to each turn signal wire at each turn signal assembly or somewhere in the path, whichever is easier, again silver band (negative end - direction of flow towards ground) to keep them from backfeeding to the other side. .
 

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And there's a newer type of aftermarket turn signal out that has it's own sequential flasher built in, so you might need to bypass the factory flasher completely, just jump the power wire to the wire leading to the turn signal switch, cap off the 3rd wire.
 

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Question...when all the bulbs are replaced on the bike this lightens the electric need/load on the charging system. Since the regulator sends excess voltage to ground which also equals heat, isnt this hard on the reg/rectifier?
I changed just the brake and rear turns and added rear running to try to bring the system closer to factory load specs. Is my thinking correct?
Well, yes,,, but brake and turn signals are intermittent loads anyway. 4 running lights normal incandescent draw is only around 12-20w, depending on bulb. The old 1034 dual filament was rated to draw 3w for running and 21w for turn/brake. The newer stuff is a couple watts higher on each filament Think the Shadow stators are rated around 300 watts output, I do not know just how much of that 300 is needed for ignition and ICU and fuel pump. Maybe add up the fuses and subtract 20-25%? Just be aware of what you're changing, LED headlights could drop the load considerably more, depending on specific unit, I've seen some anywhere from really low watt LED up to what the original headlight draws.

The much larger, heavier duty Shindengen SH775 or FH020 R/R units can handle pretty much anything you throw at them if you have room for one.

I suppose a good test would be to feel the heat sink on your R/R after a highway run, see if it's hot or not... Sportbike riders were switching to the FH020 Mosfet type as they run cooler than the SHxxx series type. with the R/R mounted up under their bodywork they were melting expensive plastic. Maybe because they switched to LEDs? Or were running at 9000 rpm a lot? Who knows...

Edit: Watts =Volts x Amps.
 
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