Question...when all the bulbs are replaced on the bike this lightens the electric need/load on the charging system. Since the regulator sends excess voltage to ground which also equals heat, isnt this hard on the reg/rectifier?
I changed just the brake and rear turns and added rear running to try to bring the system closer to factory load specs. Is my thinking correct?
Since there are no Radio Shacks near me I splurged on the $10. Diode kit from Kuryakyn (Part # 4708) to isolate the L/R blinkers. After solving that, a replacement LED flasher was needed to solve hyper flash.
The stock flasher is located just behind the fork, on the left side (just in front of the gas tank). Simply remove the plastic panel (couple of screws) and play go fish(ing) for it. Helps to buy one with compatible plug, there are cheap Chinese ones $10 on Amazon (only 2 wires needed, not stock 3-wire). Had great luck with CustomLED (Part # ELFR-1). You can use a wire tie to zip it to the harness (or frame) before putting the cover back on.
Between the single diode kit (properly installed) and the LED flasher replacement, your problems should be solved…
(But I did duct tape a flashlight to my mast when a fried alternator took out the electrical system on my boat one night). LOL… 😝
Kash,
You bring up an excellent question, and I am still learning as I go…
My problem was recurring dead batteries, so lightening the electric load was my way to un-tax the Stator (so my battery doesn’t die while driving my bike).
I am neither an electrical engineer nor a certified mechanic, unfortunately not in a position to give you a definitive answer (but look for feedback from others more highly skilled in this).
Guess that I can now add 2,400 watt Darla LED’s to my fork (or crash bars), charge my iPhone, and maybe even run heated riding gear next winter.
Time will tell… but let’s see what others about your question say in the peanut gallery…
