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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
repairing bike from my wreck and got it ride-able and noticed when trying to restart in gear with clutch in and stand up it wont unless I put it in neutral. I know the wreck rattled my innards a little and even put a fog on me but am I crazy when I say that I remember NOT having to put bike in neutral first to start it. Any insight from perhaps an owner of a vt1100 close to mine ( 1994) would be great!
 

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repairing bike from my wreck and got it ride-able and noticed when trying to restart in gear with clutch in and stand up it wont unless I put it in neutral. I know the wreck rattled my innards a little and even put a fog on me but am I crazy when I say that I remember NOT having to put bike in neutral first to start it. Any insight from perhaps an owner of a vt1100 close to mine ( 1994) would be great!
Check the fus, wiring, and diode that go to the clutch switch in the clutch handle. Its a 10.00 part.
 

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That is crazy, my Shadow does not have to be in neutral for me to start it generally it is just because I always put it in neutral when I park it. I do know that it will not start with the stand down if it is in gear, its a safety measure in case you try to take off forgetting to put the stand up...
 

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Check the fuse, wiring, and diode that go to the clutch switch in the clutch handle. Its a 10.00 part.
+1, it's one of those....

Switch is bad, OR handle no longer reaches it....ie, wreck? Look at how it works/engage switch "manually"....see if that works.
 

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can you tell me where the diode might be? and how to test it maybe. Thanks
If you have an electronic multimeter, use the continuity test to check the clutch switch, you should have hopefully less than 1 ohm of resistence, or continuity with the clutch lever pulled in,

to check the sidestand same thing, with the stand up you should have continuity between the green and green and white wire at the sidestand switch connector (if your wiring color is the same as my 750)

the diode is located in the fuse box.
as for the diode its alittle more tricky, you need the diode function on a multimeter, to check a diode your meter will show open with the meter leads hooked up one way and then you swap the neg and poss leads on the same terminals and you will show a .5 to .6 volt drop, thats a good diode. you have 2 diode circuits in that diode so it will get a little tricky, as 2 terminals will show open in both directions.
can anyone simplify that for me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for your suggestions/help. you got me to thinking and that is usually dangerous! Knowing from experience that it usually is the simple thing and remembering one of the messages touted in zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance and learned in the school of DUH!!! MANY times, I decided to check the switch out first and wala! It seems that the wreck and or parts replacement loosened the one Phillips screw that holds the switch in place allowing switch to move just enough to not make when pulling in clutch leaver and I could not hear the switch make so thats how I found and repaired the switch. Just a phillips in the end. Oh and it seems I wasn't loosing my mind after all..........THIS TIME!!!!
PS: And now I almost always wear what my dad likes to call the brain bucket!! So when I loose my mind I at least have a place to look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
if you have an electronic multimeter, use the continuity test to check the clutch switch, you should have hopefully less than 1 ohm of resistence, or continuity with the clutch lever pulled in,

to check the sidestand same thing, with the stand up you should have continuity between the green and green and white wire at the sidestand switch connector (if your wiring color is the same as my 750)

the diode is located in the fuse box.
As for the diode its alittle more tricky, you need the diode function on a multimeter, to check a diode your meter will show open with the meter leads hooked up one way and then you swap the neg and poss leads on the same terminals and you will show a .5 to .6 volt drop, thats a good diode. You have 2 diode circuits in that diode so it will get a little tricky, as 2 terminals will show open in both directions.
Can anyone simplify that for me?
thanks scrapdog
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That is crazy, my Shadow does not have to be in neutral for me to start it generally it is just because I always put it in neutral when I park it. I do know that it will not start with the stand down if it is in gear, its a safety measure in case you try to take off forgetting to put the stand up...
good looking bike . I like your Thomas Jefferson quote! You should probably go check out my link losthorizons.com. But don't say I didn't warn ya!
 

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Thanks for your suggestions/help. you got me to thinking and that is usually dangerous! Knowing from experience that it usually is the simple thing and remembering one of the messages touted in zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance and learned in the school of DUH!!! MANY times, I decided to check the switch out first and wala! It seems that the wreck and or parts replacement loosened the one Phillips screw that holds the switch in place allowing switch to move just enough to not make when pulling in clutch leaver and I could not hear the switch make so thats how I found and repaired the switch. Just a phillips in the end. Oh and it seems I wasn't loosing my mind after all..........THIS TIME!!!!
PS: And now I almost always wear what my dad likes to call the brain bucket!! So when I loose my mind I at least have a place to look.

Good job!!!
 

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...PS: And now I almost always wear what my dad likes to call the brain bucket!! So when I loose my mind I at least have a place to look.
Don't turn this into another helmet thread.:p
 

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Before you go too far down the checking for faults line..Yes the bike has to be in neutral to start..You can do this two ways..1. select neutral..or..2. pull in the clutch lever.

John.
 
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