Honda Shadow Forums banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello world,

i just bought an 86 Honda Shadow VT1100C and i was a new bike buyer. i bought it knowing i was naive & impatient and i'm getting what i expected (but hoped wouldn't happen)....

the tank is rusted, but this version has an auxiliary tank and i'm contemplating removing it myself. i'm not bike-savvy but i'm a student for sure- i've been researching, watching videos, taking notes, and studying the manual for every little thing i need done. it looks like i'll have to remove the rear tire in order to pull the auxiliary tank out of the frame from the rear.... a few questions:

*i have the bike on the center stand, not jacked up....if i'm committed to just using the center stand, will i have to remove the fender?

*is rust removal in the rear tank going to be the same process i'd use for the main tank (whether electrolysis or lining it...) and would it just be worth it to pay some money to get both tanks professionally de-rusted?

*anybody ever removed this sub-tank before or had experiences with it? it's intimidating to me and i don't want to be elbows deep in something i can't handle (i.e. putting it back on, removing the fuel valve, etc...)?

thanks!
Mrs. Moto
 

·
Registered
1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
Joined
·
19,336 Posts
Here are the instructions from a Haynes manual. I have never done this but the manual should help.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Mrs. Moto,

I'm doing the EXACT same thing to my bike. I have a 1986 vt1100 that I'm rebuilding as well. It was sitting out for 9 years and the main tank was rusted really bad, the sub tank rusted but useable. I'm also rebuilding the engine due to rusted cylinders and valve seats. They never held compression.

Ok, the tank isn't super hard to remove, but there is a decent amount of work involved. It'll probably take you about an hour and a half or less.

I first removed the rear wheel, which isn't too bad. It goes back together real easy. here a vid I looked at.

Then you'll have to remove the fender. It's kind of a pain. The tank is held in by some rubber mounts and 1 bolt on the top. Keep in mind there are a lot of electrical controls in the back that you may have to take apart or relocate. A clymer manual is priceless.

About the tank, I had some rust in the tank but bought some muratic acid for $7 at the local hardware in the paint isle. I used full strength muratic acid into the tank and sloshed it around for about 20 minutes. The results were awesome. I'll see if I can post before and after pics.

When I flushed it with the acid, I removed the fuel float and that helped see what was inside. You'll have to get some kind of stopper to block up out the outlets and vents before you use the acid. It really didn't take very much acid to remove the rust.

It's really not that bad and we are all here to help you out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Here is a picture of the before and after of the inside of my lower tank. If your lower rank is rusty, then your upper tank may be as well. You may want to consider tanking your upper tank off and checking the bottom of it. If you see some bubbles on the bottom of the tank, that could be rust popping through the tank. I'll post some pics of that when I get to my shop.
 

Attachments

1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top