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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 04 Shadow vt750c, I need to replace the front tire. Now I can change and balance the tire, my problem is getting the wheel itself off.
I’ve got the brake caliper off, the front fender off, I loosened both of the bolts that clamp onto axle. Problem is I can’t get the nut loosened on the end of the axle, is there a trick to breaking it loose, looking at front of the bike it’s the left side of wheel. At this point I starting to wonder which way turn it?
So can you help me out so I don’t end up taking it to a shop?
 

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There is no trick. Lefty loosy. Righty righty. IIRC the torque spec is about 45 lb-ft


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I’ve been using the smaller end of the spark plug tool to insert into end of axle and using an impact socket and my gun trying to break it loose. I haven’t wanted to apply heat because that part of fork is aluminum. Is there a specialty tool that fits that?
 

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2001 Shadow Spirit 750
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Shouldn't be that tight. I use a long phillips screwdriver on the one side and an adjustable on the nut. you may need to soak it with some PB Blaster for a bit and try it tomorrow.
 

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I’ve been using the smaller end of the spark plug tool to insert into end of axle and using an impact socket and my gun trying to break it loose. I haven’t wanted to apply heat because that part of fork is aluminum. Is there a specialty tool that fits that?
I think your choice of tools may be the issue. You need one of these:



And or one of these:



I know that the spark plug tool fits in there but it’s not meant for serious torque and certainly not suitable for impact duty.


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2000 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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I’ve been using the smaller end of the spark plug tool to insert into end of axle and using an impact socket and my gun trying to break it loose. I haven’t wanted to apply heat because that part of fork is aluminum. Is there a specialty tool that fits that?
Wrong tools for the job, I'm afraid.
 

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Another suggestion that I neglected to mention. Under no circumstances should you apply heat to a fully assembled fork. Only bad things will happen if you do.


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Um, you loosen the axle nut before loosening the axle clamp bolts.
His bike doesn’t have an axle nut. The axle is threaded directly into the left fork slider. You must loosen the pinch bolts before you can turn the axle.


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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the lead on the socket, I’ll have it tomorrow, hopefully it works. I don’t think it’s ever been taken off the bike...thanks everyone
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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Things I did not know...they really went all out on the Aero models, they deleted the holes from the end of the front axle, wow. Noted.
 

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2000 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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Thanks for the lead on the socket, I’ll have it tomorrow, hopefully it works. I don’t think it’s ever been taken off the bike...thanks everyone
To be on the safe side, use an impact wrench on your socket set to low torque and flip the switch from loosen to tighten a crap load of times to gradually break free any corrosion between the threads. Then increase the torque slightly and repeat the process a bunch of times. Keep doing the above till the screw eventually backs completely out.

The thing to remember is that there are no awards presented to the guy who can back it out the fastest. Work slowly and methodically.

You said earlier you are a retired Tool Maker, so you are well versed in the practice of 'sneaking up on the line' of the part you wish to machine.

Chuck - Tool and DieMaker with over half a century of time in the trade. :)
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Good advice Chuck.
I always did that too when I was turning wrenches= Sneak up gradually to the BFH (hammer).
Do as little damage as you have to while getting the job done.
 

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06' VT1100C99' GL1500C Valkyrie
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Maybe some numb nuts Loctited the threads thus a little heat may be needed. Removing the fork cap for venting purposes would be a option if heat is used. I would use a high heat gun not flames. 150 degrees should soften Loctite enough to move axle. Definitely using a worthy 17mm AH socket is a must.
 
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