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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all
I don't post much but I have this problem. I saw on line in another forum that the problem could be the rectifier. So bought I a new rectifier, charged the battery up in full and ready to install.
So a second problem that could be an attributing factor is that the turn signals don't work properly. I rewired the signals wires in the headlight. they were briefly working rear signals stopped. Moved some wires on the right and then the fronts and rear got all messed up.
Is it safe to replace rectifier until i get new signals for the back?
 

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The RR won't be affected by the signals not operating properly. In fact, the non-working signals reduces the amount of work the RR has to do, which is producing electricity.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
But what I am worried about is and small short that there may be. I disconnected some aftermarket B.S. I just now have to find why they don't work correctly.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Take the negative cable off the battery for a minute. Then touch it very lightly back on the post and look for a spark. With key and all switches off there should be none, unless you have a radio or computor memory which is tiny.
Replace your regulator and do this easy test=

Put your meter across the battery and see if at rest it is at least 12.5 volts. May need a charge first.
Then watch it while you crank it for 10 seconds and it should be above 9.5 to 10 volts.
Then while running see if it can stay up to 13.5 to 14.5 volts as you rev it above 3000 RPM.
That will tell the basic health of the battery and charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With this bike not having a tech is not easy knowing what the correct rpm and volt should be . The. Voltage now is at 12.5 after the bike was sitting for 6 hrs. I will see how it goes and hope for the best.
 

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The RR is isolated from the turn signal circuit by the fuse. An arc large enough to damage the RR will blow the sacrificial fuse before reaching the RR further downstream.
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You don't need rpm for testing the health of the battery only for testing peak voltage er the stator/RR output at the specified rpm.

At the very moment you press in the start button, voltage should not dip below 9.5V. You could load test the battery at a parts store instead but their tester doesn't do rpm either. The largest 'load' that the battery encounters is starting the engine. If it's capable of that, generally it's up to snuff. Again, no lower than 9.5V.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Take the negative cable off the battery for a minute. Then touch it very lightly back on the post and look for a spark. With key and all switches off there should be none, unless you have a radio or computor memory which is tiny.
Replace your regulator and do this easy test=

Put your meter across the battery and see if at rest it is at least 12.5 volts. May need a charge first.
Then watch it while you crank it for 10 seconds and it should be above 9.5 to 10 volts.
Then while running see if it can stay up to 13.5 to 14.5 volts as you rev it above 3000 RPM.
That will tell the basic health of the battery and charging system.
I did notice that those are the number on the meter. Will see in time have the voltage runs.
 
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