Battery Life
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I just replaced one in my four wheeler that was 07 also. It was ABUSED! I let it sit for months on end with out starting it or charging it, it lasted until this spring. So, I think if you keep them charged it helps a bunch, until it starts draging you are probably ok. When in doubt take it and have it tested, wont cost anything but time. Put it on a battery tender when/if it sits for prolonged periods, or take it inside if its going to sit a long time in the cold. I have quick connects on everything I own so I can use my tenders on it all, if I remember is a different story.
Coop
Coop
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457 Posts
I still have the original battery in my 08 Aero with close to 35,000 miles on it. I just checked it yesterday with a multimeter and the resting voltage was hovering around 13 volts.
Its worth noting that I ride almost every day with some of that time at freeway speeds for a distance of at least forty miles.
Its worth noting that I ride almost every day with some of that time at freeway speeds for a distance of at least forty miles.
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1,495 Posts
I don't change batteries until they start showing signs of trouble. If they start turning engine slower than usual, check them out. Get an inexpensive meter and learn how to use it. Batteries usually don't go dead in an instant.
Now, if you have an old battery and run it dead by leaving lights on, then replace it, as they usually won't recover.
Another exception is if you are leaving for a road trip, have an old battery, and just want peace of mind.
Dan
Now, if you have an old battery and run it dead by leaving lights on, then replace it, as they usually won't recover.
Another exception is if you are leaving for a road trip, have an old battery, and just want peace of mind.
Dan
Might want to check the fluid level weekly in this summer heat. Two times a month otherwise.
Just a extra note: get the fluid level waaaaaaaay above the level line when the bike is sitting level. This keeps water on the "plates" if you don't check them enough for water level. Leaving them high-n-dry makes the lead paste flake off and settles in the bottom of the battery case and then shorts out the battery.
Just a extra note: get the fluid level waaaaaaaay above the level line when the bike is sitting level. This keeps water on the "plates" if you don't check them enough for water level. Leaving them high-n-dry makes the lead paste flake off and settles in the bottom of the battery case and then shorts out the battery.
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269 Posts
My 97 Spirit 1100 original battery lasted 10 years. Got 4 years on this one so far. I know lots of people here hate the T battery, but they have obviously worked for me. I don't live where is hot very often, mostly only when I travel. I pull the battery every spring & check the water level, in the winter I keep it on a batter tender. Nothing else. Works for me.
Change the battery every four years. You don't want to get straned somewhere away from home like I did. Also don't ever jump start a bike from a running car, to much voltage. Ended up trailering my bike home to have it fixed $500.00 plus the cost of a trailer. Blew the main fuses and relays its eaiser to just replace it and forget about it.
I am not sure why this keeps getting mentioned. A Car battery is 13.2V just like your bike. The alternator on a car charges the battery with 14.5 V just like your bike. In fact you can put a GM alternator on a Goldwing instead of replacing the stator.
The only difference in the electrical systems on a car is CURRENT. The electrical system on a car is capable of delivering more CURRENT (AMPS).
That being said if you need to jump the bike from a car ensure the car is not running to ensure stable voltages.
Blowing fuses during a jump start results from hooking the cables up wrong or creating too much draw on the system. CURRENT NOT VOLTAGE blows fuses thats why they are rated in AMPS.
A Battery or Alternator will only supply as much current as is needed by the electrical system. If you need 8 amps for lights you will get 8 amps. If you need 200 amps for starting you will get 200 amps.
The battery in my car has been in there for 11 years and has no signs of deterioration. It has been dead twice and sits all summer without being charged. NEver an issue.
I personally have never replaced the battery in my bike in 3 years I have owned it. I have no idea when it was replaced. I have drained it twice. (left GPS plugged in for a week when it was raining once and couldnt start it the other time) I have used the de-sulphation setting on my charger (forced restart) to condition the battery and desulphate the plates. It is usually on a tender if sitting for a few days or more. It has never let me down.
I will replace it when it shows signs of impending failure
The only difference in the electrical systems on a car is CURRENT. The electrical system on a car is capable of delivering more CURRENT (AMPS).
That being said if you need to jump the bike from a car ensure the car is not running to ensure stable voltages.
Blowing fuses during a jump start results from hooking the cables up wrong or creating too much draw on the system. CURRENT NOT VOLTAGE blows fuses thats why they are rated in AMPS.
A Battery or Alternator will only supply as much current as is needed by the electrical system. If you need 8 amps for lights you will get 8 amps. If you need 200 amps for starting you will get 200 amps.
The battery in my car has been in there for 11 years and has no signs of deterioration. It has been dead twice and sits all summer without being charged. NEver an issue.
I personally have never replaced the battery in my bike in 3 years I have owned it. I have no idea when it was replaced. I have drained it twice. (left GPS plugged in for a week when it was raining once and couldnt start it the other time) I have used the de-sulphation setting on my charger (forced restart) to condition the battery and desulphate the plates. It is usually on a tender if sitting for a few days or more. It has never let me down.
I will replace it when it shows signs of impending failure
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