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1. Does tender on their website mention to not charge the battery hooked up?
2. Is there a one way diode in the voltage regulator so current only goes one way?
3. Is there a way that a low amp charger is going to heat up a stator and run thru all those wires, let alone jump the key switch so it competes a circuit to cook it getting there?
 

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99' Valkyrie/North Central Indiana
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No. .750ma. is all a Tender should put out.
I suggest buying a Deltran Tender Jr. Haven't much faith in other brands. I use mine about twice a winter layup to keep battery in check so to speak but my bike is in a insulated garage though not heated but never below freezing.
 

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Now I'm curious, do a lot of folks keep a tender on regularly? I only use mine during winter storage and for that I remove the battery and keep it in the house on the tender. Wish I could take the bike in the house but don't think the wife would go for that :D
Hi, I have 3 classic cars my vt700c 2 riding tractors I put my Deltron battery tender on religiously once a month overnight for years .My toys always run on demand. Battery's last years. Great product.
 

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2006 Honda Shadow Spirit VT750DC
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275 Posts
I used this one over this last winter, and the bike fired right up. Was also using it this year while working on carbs.


Then I got this one a few weeks ago because I like flashy lights, and it seems to be working just fine. I hook it up if I am not riding more than a day or so for no particular reason.


I have had absolutely no issues with either of these.
 

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2003 ACE 750CD, 1998 ACE Tourer
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The tender won't ruin the stater.
Only 3/4 amp or so is protected by the regulator/rectifier diodes.
OMG. I've never even considered the idea of damage being caused to the components upstream of the battery from a mere trickle charger. What's the max recommended for a trickle charger when the AGM battery is off bike to get is charged fastest? Is is 1/10th of the crank amps? Also, What happens if the trickle charge is too great while its on the bike - does it only damage the R/R? How fast does this happen?

This is critical information that appears to be far from common knowledge! There are so many trickle chargers that are around1, 1.5 or 2 amps online. Are they smart in that they reduce amperage as the battery nears full charge, thus both charging as quick as safely possible, while protecting the R/R?

Wow this is a huge can of worms as far as I'm concerned and shocking. Just when I feel like I've got this charging stuff reasonably sorted out, something like this comes to light. When you answer, I will add it to a long response I gave elsewhere just today summarizing my research into stators and rectifiers. The information on this subject is fragmented at best, and there's ton of misinformation and missing information at worse.

Thanks @swifty2014 and @Bentone.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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The diodes in the regulator probably have to be rated at least to 30 amps because the stater can put out about 350 watts or up to 25-30 amps so the diodes have to protect that changing into DC volts.
I am sure a 1-2 amps charge current into the battery won't kill the diodes.
The battery is acting like an absorber anyway.
It is not like you are trying to jam a lot of AC volts backward to ruin the diode function.
The factory would not reccomend up to 1 1/2 amps charge to the battery if it were dangerous to the diodes while still in the circuit.
Notice the chart shows up to 6 amps for a quick charge even.
 

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Throwing my 2 cents in: Battery Tenders are great! I had 4 that I used on many on cars, motorcycles, commercial mowers and lawn tractors. Long story short, the motorcycles and lawn tractors were all used, and over 7 years of using Battery Tenders on them, I never had to buy any replacement batteries. I mostly used them on the batteries over winters.
I'm sure there are other good brands of Microprocessor controlled chargers. These types are all vastly superior to plain Trickle Chargers.
 

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I'm sure there are other good brands of Microprocessor controlled chargers. These types are all vastly superior to plain Trickle Chargers.
Found 2 cents you thru: Figures if Jay Leno uses this brand for his fleet of cars I'll give it a try. Bought a 1.5a charger, but it's not a trickle type. It was for the rating of a 12N14a, needing at least a 1.4a rated, so I found this one. Now having two running bikes, I had to buy a tender type.

When I read the info on the site, figured I'd try the 'restore' mode just to salvage an old battery. Hooked it up first to the salvaged batt, and that red light meaning, 'ain't coming back', never went into charge mode. Wet the new battery, charged it with the 1.5a first. Topped it off with the CTEK.

Watched the green LED process showing this much has been cycled thru. Whatever hours it took, saw the full sequence of green lights all lit. Had maybe 13 point something. Static about 12.7 - 12.8v range. Threw it on the sitter. It's been over 2-3 months on the temporary sitter, and that thing is cooking at 12.7v with the charger plugged in all this time.
 

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I use a Battery Minder Model 2012 https://www.amazon.com/BatteryMINDe...jAifQ==&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=AR8XJJ19SNPNX
Has the desuplhator circuit. I used it on the original battery in Trinity which was a year old when I got her in 2017 and I just replaced that battery this year! It would still crank the bike once, but if it didn't start, you did not get a second try...

They also make a 2012-AGM which I also have. I use it for my 2018 Ford F150 AGM battery. Since I don't drive that truck much, it is always dconnected to that charger. Has the original battery.

If a battery is really low, I first hook it up to my 6 amp charger to do the bulk charge quicker, then switch over to the 2 amp Battery Minder for final top off and desulphating.

If you ever have a situation where a charger refuses to charge a battery (NOT due to a bad cell) then simply connect that battery in parallel with another good battery for about 3 minutes, That will force the weak battery to take enough of a charge that the trickle charge will then finish charging it.
 

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2013 Honda Shadow Phantom 750
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Something to keep in mind,,,chargers charge and tenders tend.

Most chargers do just that and usually do not tend, maintain, a battery. Of course I am sure there are expensive models that do it all out there.

If you leave a battery on a trickle charger that does not have a float or maintain setting you will fry the battery eventually.

I have a Schumacher battery tender on the Phantom if I am not riding it. The battery that is in it now has been in it for around five years now,,,still works.

Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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If you ever have a situation where a charger refuses to charge a battery (NOT due to a bad cell) then simply connect that battery in parallel with another good battery for about 3 minutes, That will force the weak battery to take enough of a charge that the trickle charge will then finish charging it.
I've used that trick often myself, and it can help a battery come back or at least take a charge (eg when you're broke and need the car to run in the morning).

When I read the info on the site, figured I'd try the 'restore' mode just to salvage an old battery. Hooked it up first to the salvaged batt, and that red light meaning, 'ain't coming back', never went into charge mode.
That trick might have worked in this case. Give the battery enough of a boost to cause the charger to recognise it, and maybe bring it back to life (some).
 

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1998 750 ACE
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I`ve NOT heard of a tender causing problems with no stator...

We got no need for a tender here, We RIDE ;)
 

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'07 Shadow Aero 750
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I always keep a Battery Tender Jr. handy in the winter here in Virginia. I keep the pigtail connection permanently fastened to the battery terminals and threaded down, out, and then duct taped (black) to the frame.
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'97 Spirit 1100 - Chandler, AZ
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OK... my 2¢ as well.

A lot has to do with our Honda's unique charging system and its' ability to only partially charge the battery, yet still allow the bike and the accessories to work somewhat normally. Most any malady as our bikes age like: loose connections, burned stator wire plugs, corroded connections in the charging system all can cause the battery to only partially charge, even on a day-long ride. Mine is currently all good, particularly after finding two crispy connector pins on the starter solenoid plug that resolved a measly 13.1V max charging voltage.
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All that said, if everything is working fine and with a battery in good shape, a month of non-use should be fine w/o requiring a tender. Add any of the prior mentioned conditions and its probably wise to keep it on a tender to assure the battery gets (and stays) fully charged.

Even with everything now AOK, I keep a 3-Amp Deltran Battery Tender connected when not riding. My bike can sometimes sit for several weeks and I'd rather keep it topped-off so to speak. 3 Amps is just the maximum rating. A microprocessor oversee's charging, so it only provides what's needed to keep the battery optimally charged. I have a 1-year old yellow AGM battery and it tolerates the charger just fine.

On a recent ride out to NM we had stopped at a scenic overview. Didn't realize I left both the petcock and the ignition on. We were hanging around for about 20 minutes before getting ready to move out. Walking back to the bike I noticed the headlight was on... oh damn! Upon trying to restart, realized the engine had flooded so had to crank it with a wide open throttle (carburetors) to clear the cylinders. Took a good 15 seconds of cranking and she finally fired-up. Thought for sure there wouldn't be enough reserve to get her restarted without getting a jump.

That tells me the battery is still in good condition and its getting a really good charge from the bike.
Definitely wasn't the case before discovering the burnt red wires on the solenoid plug - Kevin 🌵
 
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