[brismith]

Mine's a 2006 VLX, 38k miles on it. Great bike, but I'm curious about a problem we're having:

About a month ago I was driving home, and I knew I was running low on gas. The bike started sputtering, so I switched to reserve. A few moments later, it started sputtering again and shut down. I coasted and pulled into a lot and tried to get it to start again, nothing. Thinking I might've actually run out of gas, I had my wife bring my gas can; I put about a gallon in, but the bike wouldn't start. Crank, but no fire. Eventually spent the battery.

Had it towed to the shop, and the mechanic charged the battery up, and it fired right up, and couldn't tell anything was wrong. His guess was that I had inadvertently flooded it when trying to get it to restart.

I took it to and from work last week, everything was fine. Today, coming home, the bike started stuttering, like I was running out of gas. I knew I had gas, having filled up last week. Bike conked out again, and I rolled into a lot. Tried to restart, first time nothing, second time, it coughed, and third time it started back up, and I was able to drive home. Would've gone straight to the shop, but he's closed Monday.

I'm curious what you all think might be going on. Something some SeaFoam would cure? Something clogging the fuel strainer screen? Perhaps a faulty fuel valve?

Regards,
Brian

 

[swifty2014]

Seafoam is worth a try .
It may be that the petcock filter screen has become restricted .

 

[axman88]

Another suspect might be the vacuum operated, safety fuel shutoff. The valve opens when engine vacuum is detected. A cracked vacuum hose or hardening diaphram on this valve can shut off fuel flow.

 

[KiwiRider]

If the fuel system works out, the next I'd check is the pulse generator if your bike has a single one. I had the same symptoms on one cylinder of one of my 86's, an intermittent pulse generator.

Does your model have a rev counter, and does it keep operating normally when the bike cuts out? If it acts erratically, it's an ignition problem.

 

[swifty2014]

When it dies loosen the drain screw on the lower part of the carb bowl and see if 1 or 2 ounces of fuel runs out. That will tell about the fuel supply.

 

[brismith]

If the fuel system works out, the next I'd check is the pulse generator if your bike has a single one. I had the same symptoms on one cylinder of one of my 86's, an intermittent pulse generator.

Does your model have a rev counter, and does it keep operating normally when the bike cuts out? If it acts erratically, it's an ignition problem.

Nothing other than the speedometer. It felt exactly like when I'm all but out of gas on the main and switch over to reserve.

 

[brismith]

When it dies loosen the drain screw on the lower part of the carb bowl and see if 1 or 2 ounces of fuel runs out. That will tell about the fuel supply.

I did wonder about the carb, but if that were the culprit, wouldn't it run badly the whole time?

 

[h13man]

Petcock failure is a Valk syndrome also and can cause hydrolock if you have float needle that's not seating all the way. You can rebuild yours or put a manual Pingle shutoff valve in its place but you will have to get in the habit of shutting off all the time like we did in olden days.

Honda 16953-MN5-023 - COVER SET, PETCOCK : Service Honda

www.servicehonda.com

 

[KiwiRider]

Nothing other than the speedometer. It felt exactly like when I'm all but out of gas on the main and switch over to reserve.

When my pulse coil was failing it was quite like that as well, but on one cylinder. It'd sputter then die, then later sputter and re-start. What told me it was electrical was the tach cutting out or acting erratically as well, otherwise I'd have spent ages trying to hunt down a fuel problem.

Swifty's idea of opening the carb drain will tell you if you have a fuel problem or not.

 

[vito]

When you get to reserve, you are at the bottom of the tank and any particles and gunk down there start swirling around and going places you don't want them to go. Make sure you don't have anything in your fuel line / fuel filter first. After that, start digging a layer at a time, basics first.

 

[HomerDodd]

Mine's a 2006 VLX, 38k miles on it. Great bike, but I'm curious about a problem we're having:

About a month ago I was driving home, and I knew I was running low on gas. The bike started sputtering, so I switched to reserve. A few moments later, it started sputtering again and shut down. I coasted and pulled into a lot and tried to get it to start again, nothing. Thinking I might've actually run out of gas, I had my wife bring my gas can; I put about a gallon in, but the bike wouldn't start. Crank, but no fire. Eventually spent the battery.

Had it towed to the shop, and the mechanic charged the battery up, and it fired right up, and couldn't tell anything was wrong. His guess was that I had inadvertently flooded it when trying to get it to restart.

I took it to and from work last week, everything was fine. Today, coming home, the bike started stuttering, like I was running out of gas. I knew I had gas, having filled up last week. Bike conked out again, and I rolled into a lot. Tried to restart, first time nothing, second time, it coughed, and third time it started back up, and I was able to drive home. Would've gone straight to the shop, but he's closed Monday.

I'm curious what you all think might be going on. Something some SeaFoam would cure? Something clogging the fuel strainer screen? Perhaps a faulty fuel valve?

Regards,
Brian

"the mechanic charged the battery up, and it fired right up, and couldn't tell anything was wrong". His guess was that I had inadvertently flooded it when trying to get it to restart. Maybe a fuel pump or pump relay problem. Do an electrical test also. Check the stator, make sure battery is charging.

 

[swifty2014]

Do this test=

Put your meter across the battery and see if at rest it is at least 12.5 volts. May need a charge first.
Then watch it while you crank it for 5-10 seconds and it should be above 9.5 to 10 volts minimum.
Then while running see if it can stay up to 13.5 to 14.5 volts as you rev it above 3000 RPM.
That will tell the basic health of the battery and charging system.

 

[Rocketmouse77]

Seafoam is worth a try .
It may be that the petcock filter screen has become restricted .

is that stuff really safe for 4 stroke motors?
I know people use it...and it's been around for ages...but thought it was for 2 stroke outboard engines.
Maybe I'm wrong.

 

[swifty2014]

Hundreds of guys on here have used it. Me too.
It is not a harsh heavy-duty cleaner, but works very well with 1 or 2 ounces per gallon.
Some put it in the oil also.

 

[brismith]

Do this test=

Put your meter across the battery and see if at rest it is at least 12.5 volts. May need a charge first.
Then watch it while you crank it for 5-10 seconds and it should be above 9.5 to 10 volts minimum.
Then while running see if it can stay up to 13.5 to 14.5 volts as you rev it above 3000 RPM.
That will tell the basic health of the battery and charging system.

I've been away from keyboard for a bit; let me make sure I understand what you're saying.

I've got a sae pigtail connected to my battery. You're saying to connect the meter leads to the pigtail and make sure I've got 12.5v, then while the meter's hooked up, crank it and watch for 9.5-10v, then while revving, confirm I get ~14v out of it, right?

 

[brismith]

When you get to reserve, you are at the bottom of the tank and any particles and gunk down there start swirling around and going places you don't want them to go. Make sure you don't have anything in your fuel line / fuel filter first. After that, start digging a layer at a time, basics first.

I appreciate that: I'm trying to understand the basics yet and making sure I know exactly what I'm supposed to be doing. I do have the shop manual and I've read about removing the tank; the manual implies cleaning the retainer screen ought to be done from time to time.

 

[brismith]

When it dies loosen the drain screw on the lower part of the carb bowl and see if 1 or 2 ounces of fuel runs out. That will tell about the fuel supply.

Thanks for the tip: I'm assuming the fuel should be nice and clear, right? no gunk, particles or anything in it? I plan to do it this weekend.

 

[swifty2014]

If it is running now do that test on the pigtail for the battery voltage.

The check for the carb bowls is to see if there is fuel inside when it falters.
If not the fuel delivery system is a problem.
You should never see crappy fuel.

 

[brismith]

If it is running now do that test on the pigtail for the battery voltage.

The check for the carb bowls is to see if there is fuel inside when it falters.
If not the fuel delivery system is a problem.
You should never see crappy fuel.

Ah: so then I should check the carb bowl once it's stalled out? And if there's fuel in there, then I've got an electrical problem, but if there's no fuel in there, then I've got a fuel supply issue (eg clogged screen, etc). Am I following you?

 

[swifty2014]

Yes you want to isolate the fuel from ignition systems that way so you don't spend hours and $$$ and get nowhere.