[Cisco]

04 VTXc 1300 16k troubleshooting my front brake, after geting very little squeaze on the disc and atemping to bleed the ckt. I discovered that there is very little if no pressure coming from the resevoir. Every time i pull the front brake with fluid in place i got only drops at the caliper or the bleed screw. Wich i guess for now eliminates the caliper as the culprit. At the brake lever i notice a black rubber diaphram looking part that compresses everytime you pull the brake lever. what kind of parts in there can be replaced ,can it be a cloged hose if so with what ????? Im not a mechanic however i will try to repair it till its fubar then take it to a mech. Help

 

[dgraves49]

Is your lever firm or does it pull all the way to the grip?
If it is pulling till it touches the grip and your not getting a stream of fluid, you probably need to rebuild the master cylinder

 

[7xclm]

Sounds like the caliper also.

 

[Cisco]

Is your lever firm or does it pull all the way to the grip?
If it is pulling till it touches the grip and your not getting a stream of fluid, you probably need to rebuild the master cylinder

When i got it yester, it would pull 3/4 way with hardly any presure to the caliper just enough to lock the wheel when backing down the driveway reverse. After i tried to bleed it now it goes all the way to the grip and no brake pressure whatso ever. I havent sent for a repair manual. Anyone know of any threads/ videos...for replacing the master cylinder ?

 

[smilie]

When i got it yester, it would pull 3/4 way with hardly any presure to the caliper just enough to lock the wheel when backing down the driveway reverse. After i tried to bleed it now it goes all the way to the grip and no brake pressure whatso ever. I havent sent for a repair manual. Anyone know of any threads/ videos...for replacing the master cylinder ?

Geez, Cisco! Have you even put 20 miles on her yet? You're suppose to get the manual BEFORE you tear into it. You don't need to replace the master. Rebuild maybe.

 

[Harryc]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dUFin2ORpg

 

[smilie]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dUFin2ORpg

Thanks, Harry. Remember it well!

 

[Cisco]

Geez, Cisco! Have you even put 20 miles on her yet? You're suppose to get the manual BEFORE you tear into it. You don't need to replace the master. Rebuild maybe.

Ah yes my freind when i test drove it i knew right away it had issue but took it anyway hell at 16k for 3400$ thinking if its that bad well theirs always Kevin...on hwy 90. Yea hes the ultimate bike wizard take his dam time, come back in two weeks 80 bucks an hour grandmaster mechanic. Why u ask....cause he does good work. So ive prepared myself for either a me fix or a Kevin fix it scenario. Honestly ive never rebuilt one but im willing to try. What could posibly go wrong. Haha just kiddin. And the search begins for a rebuild kit,......

 

[Cisco]

Ok there are alot of diffrent brand kits on line. Can anyone recomend one based on past experience. If Honda makes one I havent been able to find one.

 

[smilie]

I think the kits are pretty generic. There's usually a bunch on ebay. I'm bettin' there's a manual or two as well. (hint, hint) Before you go shooting yourself in the foot, are you sure your bleeder isn't plugged or for that matter, opened enough?

 

[h13man]

MASTER CYLINDER SET

45530-MN9-305

$28.59

http://www.powershondaparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053fcb4f870021c54bea50d/front-brake-master-cylinder

 

[Cisco]

MASTER CYLINDER SET

45530-MN9-305

$28.59

2004 Honda VTX1300C A FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER | Powers Honda Parts

Thanks

 

[Furball Zen]

So the brakes were working and you STILL decided to F with them? WTH??

 

[swifty2014]

Since you had some pressure before you bled it, maybe try this trick=
When I worked on Japanese cars for years and I replaced a master or wheel cyl., I would do this. - Fill the master to the top and open the bleeder about 2 turns. It will gravity bleed quite well, and a continuous flow will keep the bubbles moving down to the bleeder screw. Just keep your eye on the fluid level and not go dry. Keep it going for a few minutes. And you can see the bubbles out of the bleeder.
Then with a helper that can pump the lever slow and steady, put one finger over the end of the open bleeder to act as a one-way valve. Your helper can squeeze about once a second and you will control flow with some finger pressure. When he starts to feel a steady resistance then close the bleeder and pressure it and release a few times. It should be tight then. If not then the master is a fault.
Just be careful not to get the brake fluid in your eye. !!!

 

[Cisco]

I think the kits are pretty generic. There's usually a bunch on ebay. I'm bettin' there's a manual or two as well. (hint, hint) Before you go shooting yourself in the foot, are you sure your bleeder isn't plugged or for that matter, opened enough?

Lord i hope so cause watever u just said sounds like a easy fix. Im not a mechanic ive never repaired or done anything to these. So in laymons terms can you or anyone walk me thru what exactly what Im looking for. In caveman speak....haha. Seems posible among other bugs being that upon squeazing the front brake lever only let out drops of fluid out the bleeder nut. With a full reservoir.

 

[swifty2014]

Take the bleeder all the way out and look for rust in the bore and clean it out with a small wire and brake cleaner. The brake fluid should dribble out when you have it out. Just keep the reservoir full.

 

[Cisco]

So the brakes were working and you STILL decided to F with them? WTH??

The front brakes were working but not corectly. They had about 10-20% their braking strength. I tried to troubleshoot by looking for anything obvious all i found was no preasure from the master cylinder to the caliper. Wich is how this carnival started.

 

[Cisco]

Take the bleeder all the way out and look for rust in the bore and clean it out with a small wire and brake cleaner. The brake fluid should dribble out when you have it out. Just keep the reservoir full.

I also removed the banjo nut atached to the brake hose/ caliper, and same,,, drops instead of stream upon squeazing brakes.

 

[Cisco]

Since you had some pressure before you bled it, maybe try this trick=
When I worked on Japanese cars for years and I replaced a master or wheel cyl., I would do this. - Fill the master to the top and open the bleeder about 2 turns. It will gravity bleed quite well, and a continuous flow will keep the bubbles moving down to the bleeder screw. Just keep your eye on the fluid level and not go dry. Keep it going for a few minutes. And you can see the bubbles out of the bleeder.
Then with a helper that can pump the lever slow and steady, put one finger over the end of the open bleeder to act as a one-way valve. Your helper can squeeze about once a second and you will control flow with some finger pressure. When he starts to feel a steady resistance then close the bleeder and pressure it and release a few times. It should be tight then. If not then the master is a fault.
Just be careful not to get the brake fluid in your eye. !!!

Thanks. Will do

 

[swifty2014]

If there is a layer of mud on the bottom of the master, clean it out with brake clean and see if you can inspect the very small hole. Also the larger hole supplies fluid to pump.They have to be clear.