Since you had some pressure before you bled it, maybe try this trick=
When I worked on Japanese cars for years and I replaced a master or wheel cyl., I would do this. - Fill the master to the top and open the bleeder about 2 turns. It will gravity bleed quite well, and a continuous flow will keep the bubbles moving down to the bleeder screw. Just keep your eye on the fluid level and not go dry. Keep it going for a few minutes. And you can see the bubbles out of the bleeder.
Then with a helper that can pump the lever slow and steady, put one finger over the end of the open bleeder to act as a one-way valve. Your helper can squeeze about once a second and you will control flow with some finger pressure. When he starts to feel a steady resistance then close the bleeder and pressure it and release a few times. It should be tight then. If not then the master is a fault.
Just be careful not to get the brake fluid in your eye. !!!
When I worked on Japanese cars for years and I replaced a master or wheel cyl., I would do this. - Fill the master to the top and open the bleeder about 2 turns. It will gravity bleed quite well, and a continuous flow will keep the bubbles moving down to the bleeder screw. Just keep your eye on the fluid level and not go dry. Keep it going for a few minutes. And you can see the bubbles out of the bleeder.
Then with a helper that can pump the lever slow and steady, put one finger over the end of the open bleeder to act as a one-way valve. Your helper can squeeze about once a second and you will control flow with some finger pressure. When he starts to feel a steady resistance then close the bleeder and pressure it and release a few times. It should be tight then. If not then the master is a fault.
Just be careful not to get the brake fluid in your eye. !!!