Cam pulser

I doubt it. On the newer bikes the factory has a voltage of only about .7 volts.
Usually those are a small voltage generator just like the pulse generators.
You can use a DVA peak voltage adapter with a meter to see the voltage output.

Does any power go to the pulse generator at all? If anything, the metal plate passing through the magnetic field should generate its own small amount of voltage. Which is why we measure for resistance instead, though perhaps an oscilloscope would show something for output as the crank rotated.

Troy Jollimore said:

Does any power go to the pulse generator at all? If anything, the metal plate passing through the magnetic field should generate its own small amount of voltage. Which is why we measure for resistance instead, though perhaps an oscilloscope would show something for output as the crank rotated.

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I only have a test light right now the coil wires light up and pulse when cranking but theres nothing at all on the cam pulser which makes me wonder. Day before she started on one cylinder black smoke now she doesnt want to start at all. I am waiting for new coils and wires from a 04 1100 as we speak just wondering if the cam pulser would light up test light while cranking just so i know its working

NickM4964 said:

I only have a test light right now the coil wires light up and pulse when cranking but theres nothing at all on the cam pulser which makes me wonder. Day before she started on one cylinder black smoke now she doesnt want to start at all. I am waiting for new coils and wires from a 04 1100 as we speak just wondering if the cam pulser would light up test light while cranking just so i know its working

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I just re cleaned the carbs sealed the vacuums its getting fuel it has lots of compression im just thinking its not getting spark now it usually fires up in half a crank

You need a multimeter. Even a small analog one from Canadian Tire, Amazon or Princess Auto, etc. They cost under $15 for a basic one. Saves a LOT of time and frustration!

If you put a meter on the cam pulser and see what the resistance is, then crank the engine a little, it should actually show some deflection on the meter as a small voltage is changing the resistance momentarily.
I think that would work especially on an old needle type meter.

Still waiting on that guy with the multimeter but have got it to fire but its backfiring out of the carb what the f*** 🤷

Feel like lighting this bike on fire

Make sure your 2 plug wires both going to the same cylinder from each coil.

They are going where they should be

Did it run at one time and went bad?

Yeah was running beautiful then just started the one cylinder the other day been trying to fix it ever since

What color are the spark plugs? Do you know which cylinder went dead first?
Do both the carbs have about the same amount of gas in each bowl?
Loosen the drain screws to see how much runs out.

They had carbon all black in the frontcylinder the rear ones were wet and black i cleaned them off and spark got stronger. Now the rear cylinder was the one misfiring. It was being intermittent also sputtered under load would run 2 cylinders at about 1/8th throttle anything more and would cut out the rear cylinder. Now it will do this hot and cold. Again this only happened after a 100 km ride at highway speed. It killed the battery aswell i did find a broken ground on rectifier that i fixed seemed to be ok after that. Havent been able to take it out since then. I ride it everyday its my first motorcycle. I have the bike re wired to basic minimal wiring. It is a bobber now has been converted to hard tail aswell.

Any chance the re-wiring connections has come loose somewhere after the long ride?

If the rear plugs are wet, maybe the float valve on that carb got a bit of dirt and began flooding the plugs, possibly that is where the cylinder first started missing?
Maybe you don't have an electrical problem, maybe all fuel and flooding.
How about disconnecting the fuel pump and cleaning the plugs well and try to fire it up on the fuel that is in the bowls only and see if it will run for a minute or so until the fuel runs out.
That will prove the ignition system can still operate OK, just need to get the flooding under control.
Easy test anyway.

I have tried that i have cleaned out the carbs numerous times only weird thing it did was pump fuel right out of the vent hose. That black t fitting in between them. Took them off again reset the floats. Now its trying to fire but everytime it does it makes a popping sound out the carb and shoot gas out the carbs like its firing backwards if that makes sense i could emailyou a video if you send me your email it wont let me attach anything on the site

Hold on i just figured out how to attach a video one second

Is it the original pump?
These only need 2-3 pounds pressure and if a guy puts on a higher pressure model as for a car it can overcome the floats valves and flood.
Try the idea I had above about disconnecting the pump just for a test.

No its an aftermarket pump had no issue with it before. I tried to get a video for ya but it wont letme upload it. Everytime it sparks it shoots out the carb like its opening the intake valve as the exhaust valve

NickM4964 said:

No its an aftermarket pump had no issue with it before. I tried to get a video for ya but it wont letme upload it. Everytime it sparks it shoots out the carb like its opening the intake valve as the exhaust valve

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Also have already disconnected the pump and done that test.

You have to make a You Tube video and put the link on here, then it works great. Try that.
You couldn't have swapped the 2 trigger wires from one coil to the other?
Or any other cylinder specific wires after the cylinder started missing?