so i got my carb off finally. i guess every screw, nut, and bolt has lock tight on it cuz it was a pain! i wish if people are going to do this they should use allen head screws instead of phillip heads that just round offfff!!! I don't what i'm going to do to get my carb apart. spraying with breakway isn't working.:sad:
carb and idle issue
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A good quality philips screw driver helps a lot
a Punch as round as the head of the screw helps, Tap the punch with the hammer to push the burs back down from rounding out the screws then tap the screw driver in to reshape it to the screw driver.
The tapping also usually loosens the screws
If you get one screw out without damaging it take it to a tool shop and find a screw driver that fits it well
a Punch as round as the head of the screw helps, Tap the punch with the hammer to push the burs back down from rounding out the screws then tap the screw driver in to reshape it to the screw driver.
The tapping also usually loosens the screws
If you get one screw out without damaging it take it to a tool shop and find a screw driver that fits it well
sorry I didn't get back to you on this. I got all screws off, but ruined the head on one. I replaced the with hex headed screws. Cleaned out the jets in the card, the fuel lines and the tiny screen the plugs in to the carb where the fuel line attaches. this screen had varnish chips in it! no wonder it would cut out when throttling up. Everything is clean, put back together and the bike runs like a dream. starts up without the choke when warm on the first turn over, idles perfect and throws you back in the seat when accelerating to exuberantly! ha ha. Anyway, no wonder they say cleanliness is ext to Godliness.
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Hey Sheila!!!! Just so ya know, the screws are steel and the carbs are aluminum. It was corrosion you were fighting. Some dielectric grease or anti sieze when you put everything back together would have made any future endeavors of carb work alot easier.........maybe next time.
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Glad you're up and running fine! Just so ya' know. I wasn't being a wise guy when I referred to a metric screwdriver. The metric cross head screwdriver has a more blunt tip. Just grind the tip a regular Phillips head screwdriver and you'll be good to go.
Working on Japanese engine on cars or bikes can be tough. I don't know if it is the torque or plating or sealer but it is hader to get some screws to move. A couple of tricks I have used is to get an IMPACT driver tool. Harbor Freight sells some cheaper ones that work. It actually twists as you tap on the end of it with a hammer, and that impact/twist will loosen a lot of screws without twisting the bit out and damaging the phillips head. Just be carefull to have the piece supported under it to keep from breaking off an ear of the case, etc.
Another trick is when the phillips starts to "cam out" tap the screw driver with a hammer to seat it deeper and try to tighten the screw first to break it loose. Many times these will get it out.
Another trick is when the phillips starts to "cam out" tap the screw driver with a hammer to seat it deeper and try to tighten the screw first to break it loose. Many times these will get it out.
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2,129 Posts
I agree. One tool to have on hand when needed and you tell yourself "that was worthwhile investment".
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