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Last weekend I installed a Vance & Hines ProPipe HS on my '04 Sabre as well as a DynoJet jet kit (170 front, 175 rear and needle clips on 3rd position as recommended) and a K&N air filter. Also had the pleasure of meeting a fellow Sabre rider in my neck of the woods, "qartique" on these here forums, who stopped by to help wrap up the install of the ProPipe last weekend.

Next thing on the list was synching the carbs, and I'd read up on it here as well as read about the homemade manometer trick.....looked really good, so I scrounged up the parts when I got back in town from my weekday travels and whipped it up.

Long story short, bike runs GREAT now, no decel popping at all and purrs like a kitten.....well actually it growls like th'frikkin' Sabre-toothed tiger that it is!

So I just wanna give my BIG thanks to everybody and this site for all the tech tips I've read here, as well as for this forum putting me in touch with my new bud, who was also kind enough to loan me his service manual today for the carb synch. Qartique I owe ya one!

Here's a few pics of how it worked out for me if they're of interest.....there's a few of 'em and you might need to hit the "refresh" button if they don't show at first.....

If you look on the right side of the pic below you'll see my homemade Manometer hanging from the ladder which I drafted into service, this is made per the writeup at http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp :



The heart of it is this pair of vacuum fittings made from 3/16 brake line and tapped with an M5-.80 thread, topped off with nuts and nylon washers per the instructions at MarkC's site, http://users.zoominternet.net/~capronem/manometer vacuum fittings.htm :



Although I have a garage I normally work in, I didn't much care for the idea of working with a running engine and an elevated, independant fuel supply hooked up with a hose and using graviity feed, nor did I really want to leave the tank connected per the service manual (doesn't sound like it leaves much room to work with)....basically because I'm kinda tall and large and clumsy and, well, "Stoopy", it's too much of an accident waiting to happen and the wife'd cut me off for a spell if I burned the house down over this. Plus it was a decent day outside....So that's why I worked on it just outside my garage in the driveway, and used the ladder. You might spot a fire extinguisher on the floor nearby, which just tells ya how much I really trust myself.... :lol:

For the fuel source I picked up this El Cheapo little gas container and just augered a nice big smooth hole in the removable cap (which gets replaced with a sealed nozzle for everyday use, so it's still useful for other stuff)....hooked up about 3 feet of fuel line and put hose clamps on both sides of the cap too, since the outside clamp (with a large twist nut) served as a second bungee cord attachment point for hanging, and the inside clamp would keep the hose from pulling out through the cap once it's hanging:



So with it all hooked uop and ready to rock and roll it looked like this (note 2 bungies on the fuel container):



So with it all good to go, fired it up and dialed it in....carbs were indeed off, and I needed almost a half turn counter-clockwise to get them fairly even. This next pic below is interesting becuase at the time, the bike was idling nicely (with a bit of choke to compensate for the vacuum attachements) and it looked pretty much dead even - but the camera caught one side higher than the other, which hopefuly isn't off too far (opinions?) and might be just normal bumping back and forth as each cylinder fires....




Now....as for lo-tech lo-bugjit tech tips, I have one of my own....I thought I had everything nailed in preperation for this, except for one thing, which was the adjustment tool. I've read of how Honda is very proud of this tool and it's out of my range for a specialty tool for occasional use. I also read about how you can just go full throttle (with the engine off of course) and the synch screw pivots up on the linkage so you can attack it from above with a regular long flat-blade screwdriver. But for adjusting it while running, which I wanted to do, I was kinda stumped...until standing at my workbench I looked up at my tool wall and saw my hacksaw hanging there. Sure enough, a regular cheapoe hacksaw blad is long enough, flexible yet stiff enough, to reach the synch screw from the right-front side coming on over the top of the front cylinder head (apologies if someone else did think of this and posted it before). Anyhow it works just fine, except for when the screw slit is perfectly straight up and down, the hacksaw blade is just a hair too wide to turn without a little binding, but it can be done.

I might just take this blade and chuck it in my vise, then file or grind the teeth of and make it narrower in the middle so that doesn't happen. Maybe attach a cool ducttape handle to the end....who knows....but although the picture doesn't show the details on how it fits the the screw slot so well (too dark back there for the camera flash I guess), it did the trick!



So I just wanted ta say THANKS for all the great info!!!
 

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Great job on the write up. I also sync'd my carbs the same way. Gathered info from the site and went after it. I used a different tool for the adjusting tool. I used a piece of fuel hose with a screw driver tip stuck in one end.

Ronnie
 

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flashnyellow said:
I used a different tool for the adjusting tool. I used a piece of fuel hose with a screw driver tip stuck in one end.

Ronnie
Freak-kin BRILLIANT!

Bike157......wellsir, I didn't use line restrictors, it was all per the two writeups I posted links to, and the combo of the 3/16 tubing (12 feet total, 6 feet per cylinder) and the vacuum port fittings made from 3/16 brake line were small enough in diameter that I guess they had plenty of restriction as it was.

For the record I did notice that when I throttled up, one cylinder would "pull" more than the other, the level didn't stay even as it did during idle. I balanced for idle, but now I'm wondering, if this is normal and if I should have tuned for part-throttle?

Opinions certainly welcome....I can take pictures and write a book but it doen't make me an expert by any stretch of the imagination....learning as I go here.....thanks.....
 

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Nice writeup, Stoopy!

Regarding your question about the small offset in the manometer levels...

We should recall that the spec is given in inches of mercury, which is over 13 times more dense than ATF. So, if the Honda sync spec is 1" of mercury (inHg) then the ATF manometer level offset can be 13 inches, and STILL be in spec. (I forget the exact sync spec for my Spirit 1100, but I think it is greater than 1 inHg.)


Dave
 

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I did mine with Water dyed with red food coloouring. I also had a split at part throttle while dead nuts on at idle.

Great post
 

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Just did my '06 SS750 and the '94 VT600C VLX. Both sync adjustment screws were facing up at idle...so just a standard long shaft screwdriver. This was the first time I'd ever had the radiator fan come on with the 600. Was like 93 degrees so the extended park time while running finally got the temp high enough.

Transmission fluid in clear line...cut 2 pieces of dowel rod off 1/2" long and sanded them into a D shape; inserted them for restrictors.
 

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How Sweet - thanks

I just completed the carb sync described in this "sticky". Made the threaded inserts - dumb - buy them from posted source. Used Lowes for tube. To connect gas I simply used a 4' piece of fuel hose 1/4", and a plastic barbed connector, also from Lowes. I did need to use a screw type hose clamp on the hose from the bike to seal. Put the tank on a bench beside the bike and just used it as my gas source.

The adjustment from above, after moving the vent tank away, was available with full open throttle and easy to reach with electricians screwdriver. I simply moved the adjustment 1/4 turn in, then started the bike, to see which side went up. Then I started and stopped the bike to make the next adjustments. Maybe 5 times. Adjustments of 1/4 turn would move the oil column at least 2" so easy and touchy.

My bike is a 1996 vt1100c

Really great information, thanks to all.
 

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I just synced my 95 1100 ACE using the adapters from MarkC over the weekend. Truly an easy job. I felt it important to repeat what others have said about the sync screw for my model bike. With the engine shut off and the gas tank removed, look down as you turn the throttle. The screw you are looking for will rotate up so that any normal length flat head screw driver can easily reach it for an easy adjustment. My total adjustment was 1/4 turn counterclockwise.
 

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The hacksaw blade idea was brilliant, as are some of the other options others have given.

If you remove the front, chrome rocker box cover using those little hex bolts, you can get a variety of tools in there for the adjustment. It takes no time at all to remove the cover and it makes the jog even more routine.
 

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I haven't balanced the carbs yet but I did just round up all the stuff to make the vacuum gage:
- A good current sources for the 5 mm vacuum adapters is Adventuremotogear (www.adventuremotogear.com). The price is $3.00 each for the two adapters and $3.00 shipping. Easier than making them yourself. The online ordering didn't seem to work and I had to place the order by phone. The member who was selling them didn't answer my business so he must be out of the business.
- You can buy the vacuum restictors at Autozone for $2.00 each. Stores seem to only stock one piece, so I had to go to 2 stores to get the two required. They are located with all the vacuum fittings and are in a plastic blister package.
- Home Depot has a good selection of clear plastic tubing that the auto parts stores around here don't seem to carry.

Hope this helps someone.
 

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If anyone plans on doing this on the ACE 750 shadow line it is incredibly easy.
remove the fin plate from the right of the front cylinder and the left of the rear.
you will see a screw blocking the access hole to get vacuum reading.
taking the tank off reveals a hole in the frame big enough to stick a screwdriver down to reach the sync screw.

too bad I dont have enough free time to actually do this myself... paying the dealer to adjust & sync for me.... I hate messing with idle screws on 2 carbs, it just confuses me!
 

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So i was trying to figure out how to adjust my sync screw... and this is what i came up with, it reaches just fine, can even add extra length if needed.

it's 1/4" ratchet extensions with a 1/4 socket (i think) and a #2 screw bit held in with tape (so it didn't fall out). hope this helps someone else.

 

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The last two links for 5mm vacuum adapters didn't get me anywhere. So I did the next best thing: Type "5 mm vacuum adapters" into google. That gave me lots of options! I've linked the results.

Also, would someone kindly post a picture of a vacuum adapter attached to a motorcycle, specifically showing where one screws into the other? This would clear up a great deal of mystery about carb syncing.
 
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