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2005 Honda Shadow VT600CD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2005 Honda VT600CD with 19,000 original miles has been mis-behaving. Tried to take her for a ride for the 1st time in ~15 months (shame on me!) and it won't keep running. After grinding the starter with the choke on, finally got it started and it won't run unless the choke is fully on. You can rev up the engine (coughing & sputtering!) only IF you keep the choke fully on. It will even idle at ~1,500RPM IF you feather the choke 1/2 way off BUT if you try to open the throttle at all, the engine stalls. Took off clean air cleaner - no change. Spark plugs are 1,600 miles old & not wet or fouled - cleaned & re-gapped them anyway. No smoke from exhaust. Plug wires are tight to the spark plugs. I was an auto technician before retirement and it feels like fuel starvation, not electrical. Ran for 5 minutes until the exhaust was hot & still stalls the moment you try to open the throttle with the choke off.

Drained the fuel tank and the 91 octane gasoline is not stale (put it in my wife's 2021 Rogue with 1/8 tank fuel and drove for 20 miles with no issue). The fuel strainer is not clogged (was replaced 1,600 miles ago). The air cleaner was replaced 1,600 miles ago.

Hopefully you agree that it's time to rebuild the carb. If so, I have a few questions:
1. Where would you recommend that I buy a carb rebuild kit from?
2. Where can I get accurate step-by-step instructions on how to rebuild this carb?
3. Is this a good way to get a factory service manual: Honda 2005 VT600CD Service Manual | eBay

Thanks!

Dave Weinstein
[email protected]
 

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My 2005 Honda VT600CD with 19,000 original miles has been mis-behaving. Tried to take her for a ride for the 1st time in ~15 months (shame on me!) and it won't keep running. After grinding the starter with the choke on, finally got it started and it won't run unless the choke is fully on. You can rev up the engine (coughing & sputtering!) only IF you keep the choke fully on. It will even idle at ~1,500RPM IF you feather the choke 1/2 way off BUT if you try to open the throttle at all, the engine stalls. Took off clean air cleaner - no change. Spark plugs are 1,600 miles old & not wet or fouled - cleaned & re-gapped them anyway. No smoke from exhaust. Plug wires are tight to the spark plugs. I was an auto technician before retirement and it feels like fuel starvation, not electrical. Ran for 5 minutes until the exhaust was hot & still stalls the moment you try to open the throttle with the choke off.

Drained the fuel tank and the 91 octane gasoline is not stale (put it in my wife's 2021 Rogue with 1/8 tank fuel and drove for 20 miles with no issue). The fuel strainer is not clogged (was replaced 1,600 miles ago). The air cleaner was replaced 1,600 miles ago.

Hopefully you agree that it's time to rebuild the carb. If so, I have a few questions:
1. Where would you recommend that I buy a carb rebuild kit from?
2. Where can I get accurate step-by-step instructions on how to rebuild this carb?
3. Is this a good way to get a factory service manual: Honda 2005 VT600CD Service Manual | eBay

Thanks!

Dave Weinstein
[email protected]
Yep, sounds like your main jet is clogged. For parts I pretty much stick with bikebandit or partzilla. With the way the nations supply chain is its anyone's best guess.
There are some decent videos on YouTube and there should be a sticky up above for your bikes maintenance manual. Plenty of folks on here will give you a hand if you find yourself in a jam.
 

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2005 Honda Shadow VT600CD
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's "there should be a sticky up above for your bikes maintenance manual" mean?
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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With the carb you will likely not have to replace anything just clean it up.
Spray carb cleaner is probably good.

Stickies are permanent messages in the forum index.
Like here: Technical Discussion
The messages above the triple width blank line are stickies.

This place should have a service manual, but I'm having trouble reaching it right now.
 

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This place should have a service manual, but I'm having trouble reaching it right now.
Looks like their security certificate needs an update. As I understand it they go bad on predetermined dates. Hopefully some admin. there will update it.

I agree with CSRoad, a good clean and blowing out the passages with moderate pressure air should fix you up. You might even be able to see what caused the issue. I'd caution you to be careful with the disassembly and note the position of all the parts. I find the Keihin to be complicated, and I've had at least 5 or 6 apart, a few multiple times. Check the rubber diaphram and get it back in the correct position. A failed CV diaphram could be the cause of your issue. While you are in there, have a look at the condition of the intake "Y" manifold.

Your late model is a blessing, in that it only has a single carb, which makes access and diagnose quite a bit simpler, in my opinion. But it's still a fair amount of work, the seat, gas tank, air filter and air box, choke and throttle linkage all need to come off first.

I've never heard of anybody trying this, but I wonder if back-flushing the float bowl, by forcing a few ounces of a moderately potent solvent like Seafoam up through the drain spigot, and letting it drain out again repeatedly, might be an effective short cut cleaning operation. Gotta be careful though, the rubber and plastic parts will suffer if exposed to a strong solvent and there is a fair amount of these vulnerable materials in these carbs.
 

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Looks like their security certificate needs an update. As I understand it they go bad on predetermined dates. Hopefully some admin. there will update it.

I agree with CSRoad, a good clean and blowing out the passages with moderate pressure air should fix you up. You might even be able to see what caused the issue. I'd caution you to be careful with the disassembly and note the position of all the parts. I find the Keihin to be complicated, and I've had at least 5 or 6 apart, a few multiple times. Check the rubber diaphram and get it back in the correct position. A failed CV diaphram could be the cause of your issue. While you are in there, have a look at the condition of the intake "Y" manifold.

Your late model is a blessing, in that it only has a single carb, which makes access and diagnose quite a bit simpler, in my opinion. But it's still a fair amount of work, the seat, gas tank, air filter and air box, choke and throttle linkage all need to come off first.

I've never heard of anybody trying this, but I wonder if back-flushing the float bowl, by forcing a few ounces of a moderately potent solvent like Seafoam up through the drain spigot, and letting it drain out again repeatedly, might be an effective short cut cleaning operation. Gotta be careful though, the rubber and plastic parts will suffer if exposed to a strong solvent and there is a fair amount of these vulnerable materials in these carbs.
My 2005 Honda VT600CD with 19,000 original miles has been mis-behaving. Tried to take her for a ride for the 1st time in ~15 months (shame on me!) and it won't keep running. After grinding the starter with the choke on, finally got it started and it won't run unless the choke is fully on. You can rev up the engine (coughing & sputtering!) only IF you keep the choke fully on. It will even idle at ~1,500RPM IF you feather the choke 1/2 way off BUT if you try to open the throttle at all, the engine stalls. Took off clean air cleaner - no change. Spark plugs are 1,600 miles old & not wet or fouled - cleaned & re-gapped them anyway. No smoke from exhaust. Plug wires are tight to the spark plugs. I was an auto technician before retirement and it feels like fuel starvation, not electrical. Ran for 5 minutes until the exhaust was hot & still stalls the moment you try to open the throttle with the choke off.

Drained the fuel tank and the 91 octane gasoline is not stale (put it in my wife's 2021 Rogue with 1/8 tank fuel and drove for 20 miles with no issue). The fuel strainer is not clogged (was replaced 1,600 miles ago). The air cleaner was replaced 1,600 miles ago.

Hopefully you agree that it's time to rebuild the carb. If so, I have a few questions:
1. Where would you recommend that I buy a carb rebuild kit from?
2. Where can I get accurate step-by-step instructions on how to rebuild this carb?
3. Is this a good way to get a factory service manual: Honda 2005 VT600CD Service Manual | eBay

Thanks!

Dave Weinstein
[email protected]

Spray
 

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'99 VT750CD ACE
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Looks like their security certificate needs an update. As I understand it they go bad on predetermined dates. Hopefully some admin. there will update it.
Just last week i was looking through the "Honda Service Manuals" sticky for my bike. First link one I found was "outdated" and led nowhere, I kept scrolling and came across another that someone had posted and it worked fine. Moral of the story is if the first link you find doesn't work, keep looking there's probably one there that does.
 

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My 2005 Honda VT600CD with 19,000 original miles has been mis-behaving. Tried to take her for a ride for the 1st time in ~15 months (shame on me!) and it won't keep running. After grinding the starter with the choke on, finally got it started and it won't run unless the choke is fully on. You can rev up the engine (coughing & sputtering!) only IF you keep the choke fully on. It will even idle at ~1,500RPM IF you feather the choke 1/2 way off BUT if you try to open the throttle at all, the engine stalls. Took off clean air cleaner - no change. Spark plugs are 1,600 miles old & not wet or fouled - cleaned & re-gapped them anyway. No smoke from exhaust. Plug wires are tight to the spark plugs. I was an auto technician before retirement and it feels like fuel starvation, not electrical. Ran for 5 minutes until the exhaust was hot & still stalls the moment you try to open the throttle with the choke off.

Drained the fuel tank and the 91 octane gasoline is not stale (put it in my wife's 2021 Rogue with 1/8 tank fuel and drove for 20 miles with no issue). The fuel strainer is not clogged (was replaced 1,600 miles ago). The air cleaner was replaced 1,600 miles ago.

Hopefully you agree that it's time to rebuild the carb. If so, I have a few questions:
1. Where would you recommend that I buy a carb rebuild kit from?
2. Where can I get accurate step-by-step instructions on how to rebuild this carb?
3. Is this a good way to get a factory service manual: Honda 2005 VT600CD Service Manual | eBay

Thanks!

Dave Weinstein
[email protected]
As others have said I don't think you'll need to actually rebuild your carb but best money sez your main jet is clogged. You described the symptoms perfectly. In a perfect world you just need to pull the carb, remove the jets and toss them in a sonic cleaner over night. Minus that, clean the jets with a thin wire and spray everything out real good. Should be a simple fix.
Not to add to an ongoing debate but I believe you're wasting your pesos on that 91 octane gas. A good tier one 87 octane will serve you well, maybe just add an amount of SeaFoam to each tank for awhile.
 

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02 1100 Spirit / 2012 Goldwing
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Doesn't sound to me like you can even the the bike correct? If that's the case seafoam probably wont do much idling in your driveway. Your a wrench. If you've had any carburetor experience you can easily rebuild this. Like the others said Bike Bandit or Partzilla is a good resource.
 
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Doesn't sound to me like you can even the the bike correct? If that's the case seafoam probably wont do much idling in your driveway. Your a wrench. If you've had any carburetor experience you can easily rebuild this. Like the others said Bike Bandit or Partzilla is a good resource.
Yep. SeaFoam only works if you can get it to run with 1/2 choke or less.
 

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I would remove the carb, the bowls and any plastics. Then chemdip the entire thing for 24 hours then rorate it around for another few hours. This comoletely cleaned my 02 shadow carb that sat for 2 year by previous owner. I still ride this bike and have not had to rebuild the carb since i got it 6 years ago.

Try not to seperate the carbs, just remove the jets, floats, needles and any plastic parts. There are tons of carb rebuild videos and many are roughly the same.

It sounds like your pilot jets are clogged.

For sitting that long i suggest new fuel filter, air filter, carb chemdip made by Gunk. I used Berrymans and it did not do as well. Use the gunk brand instead.

Gunk CC3K Carburetor & Parts Cleaner with Drip Basket - 96 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ABGA4...abc_ZFFB14RN9S510Q7P3QYM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 

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2005 Honda Shadow VT600CD
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well... The saga continues. I removed the carb and dis-assembled it. Found a bit of gunk at the bottom of the main jet (see photo) but not that bad. Scrubbed the carb parts with a degreaser (I don;t have carb cleaner in my home shop) then rinsed with hot hot water. The parts gleamed. Replaced the fuel tank strainer not because it was dirty but slightly crushed. Replaced the fuel with fresh gasoline. Put it all back together using YouTube videos and it's worse. It will start and run IF AND ONLY IF I keep squirting starting fluid into the carb throat.

I cannot find any fuel filter other than the strainer in the tank.

My question is this: what is the diaphram/regulator pictured in the attached? 1 hose comes from the fuel tank petcock and the other hose goes to the carb. Could that be the cause of the fuel starvation?

Any suggestions?!?
 

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2005 Honda Shadow VT600CD
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well... The saga continues. I removed the carb and dis-assembled it. Found a bit of gunk at the bottom of the main jet (see photo) but not that bad. Scrubbed the carb parts with a degreaser (I don;t have carb cleaner in my home shop) then rinsed with hot hot water. The parts gleamed. Replaced the fuel tank strainer not because it was dirty but slightly crushed. Replaced the fuel with fresh gasoline. Put it all back together using YouTube videos and it's worse. It will start and run IF AND ONLY IF I keep squirting starting fluid into the carb throat.

I cannot find any fuel filter other than the strainer in the tank.

My question is this: what is the diaphram/regulator pictured in the attached? 1 hose comes from the fuel tank petcock and the other hose goes to the carb. Could that be the cause of the fuel starvation?

Any suggestions?!?
Oh, and are there any adjustments? The only screw I find on the carb is screwed all the way in and if I loosen it, it feels like it will screw itself our from vibration.
 

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02 1100 Spirit / 2012 Goldwing
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If the two hoses are switched yes! That wouldn't let any fuel to the carb. The only adjustment would be idle mixture. That screw would have a cap covering it unless PO already removed it.
 

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2005 Honda Shadow VT600CD
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If the two hoses are switched yes! That wouldn't let any fuel to the carb. The only adjustment would be idle mixture. That screw would have a cap covering it unless PO already removed it.
The hoses aren't switched.
 

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The vacuum petcock is basically a safety device that is supposed to stop the flow of gasoline when the engine stops. Engine not running = no vacuum = diaphragm closes fuel valve in vacuum petcock.

They have a serious downside, in that depending on how the particulars of the plumbing, on some models when the diaphragm fails, gas can seep straight into the intake manifold, into a cylinder, and hydro-lock the engine. This can do serious engine damage in the time it takes to press the start button. I don't think this has been reported on our late model VLXs, but I try to be careful about using my manual petcock nevertheless.

You can bypass the vacuum petcock for purposes of testing. If you are so inclined, somewhere in the forum you can find a description of how to disable the vacuum petcock in the on position, which would then allow capping the vacuum line.

The idle mixture screw is hidden under a pressed in cap on some later model Honda's. I think this was an EPA compliance thing. You can find instructions on how to access the screw by drilling out the cap, if you are so inclined.
 

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2001 Valkyrie I/S
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They sell a cover set for your auto valve #26 here. It includes the diaphragm. If you don't have good vacuum to the diaphragm or the diaphragm leaks a little that can affect your fuel flow. There should be three hoses there, the smaller one should be vacuum. You can test it by directing the hose that goes to the carb into a jar and creating a vacuum on diaphragm to see if fuel flows out.
 

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So if you loosen ‘that screw’, keeping track of the number of turns (and don’t ever ‘tighten‘ it all the way, which can damage it), is there any change to the bike trying to start? If the carb bowls have gas in them, you might have to clean them again. The passages inside of them are TINY, and it’s easy to miss something.
 

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Oh, and are there any adjustments? The only screw I find on the carb is screwed all the way in and if I loosen it, it feels like it will screw itself our from vibration.
So if you loosen ‘that screw’, keeping track of the number of turns (and don’t ever ‘tighten‘ it all the way, which can damage it), is there any change to the bike trying to start? If the carb bowls have gas in them, you might have to clean them again. The passages inside of them are TINY, and it’s easy to miss something.
It sounds like the OP may be talking about the bowl drain screw? From the diagram it looks like the idle mix screw might be on the bowl side of the carb?

Advice from the forum is awesome, but I advise also getting information from other sources, like looking at the manual:

Some folks like to watch videos:

I personally, prefer diagrams: Carburetors
 
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