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Discussion Starter #1
So alot of you will tell me to get a chain drive bike if that's my preference.. Thing is though... I fell in love with her as she is currently. I bought another bike as many suggest, a Harley! AWEso..... Anyways moving on from my mistake, and not having the budget for a vtx 13 or 1800 I am seeking serious knowledge and hopefully some advice as to the sprocket parts name is helpful.. I have chains and swingarms and the whole "starter pack" for the shaft to chain upgrade.. Tips and tricks please
 

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06' VT1100C/99' GL1500C Valkyrie
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Everything but a motor that has a chain drive output. No nobody made a model that would interchange from one to another though it sounds practical but....
 

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Shadow VT700c 1986, ST1300 08
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If I read it correctly you are looking to go from fabulous shaft drive into crap chain...

WHY??? :rolleyes:
 

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Shadow VT700c 1986, ST1300 08
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You would have to change the swing arm from single arm to double.
Chain, opposite to shaft, will have a pull effect on the wheel's axle so you will have to reinforce it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Everything but a motor that has a chain drive output. No nobody made a model that would interchange from one to another though it sounds practical but....
So gimme the impractical answer. I'm gonna figure this **** out 1 way or another. Help me out
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You would have to change the swing arm from single arm to double.
Chain, opposite to shaft, will have a pull effect on the wheel's axle so you will have to reinforce it.
Have all that and tig experience. How specifically would you reinforce the axle?
 

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Shadow VT700c 1986, ST1300 08
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If you noticed, all chain bikes have a double swing arm. This prevents horizontal motion of the axle.
The shaft drive bikes have only 1 arm (opposite to shaft) as this is engineered to hold the wheel on just one side and there is no horizontal pull/push of the axle.
By mounting a chain you're adding the pull forward force on the axle.
The chain will try to pull the wheel forward. The way to compensate this is to add a second arm to the swing.
 

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06' VT1100C/99' GL1500C Valkyrie
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So gimme the impractical answer. I'm gonna figure this **** out 1 way or another. Help me out
Unless you are a very accomplished toolmaker to go along with your welding skills.... You seem to have a drive to do it anyway so go for it!
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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FUGETABOUTIT !
 

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You would also need to re-machine the transmission area to convert the right angle shaft drive to a transmission with an output shaft for the front sprocket as well as re-designing the swing arm and a new rear wheel.... It could be done, with enough money and time, Remember, the proper question is not can it be done? It's How much will it cost in time and money to do it.? I'd suspect it'll be more than the price of a new bike... What is it you're riding that you want to do this on?
 

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,,, And fwiw, I knew a guy, Kaw mechanic, that built a dual engine KZ900 back in the 70's, stretched the frame, built a custom setup with dual primary chain drives with the 1st engine running a primary back to the 2nd engine, which then drove the wheel via chain. Welded up and machined the custom primary housing. Unfortunately (I think it was a bearing) the setup failed during a run at Bonneville... he's lucky he was still around. And that setup was much simpler than what you're talking about.
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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FYI, I believe the shaft output actually spins backwards in relation to the direction of travel so simply converting the output drive from a shaft drive transmission into sprocket and chain would end with five reverse gears....


If I read it correctly you are looking to go from fabulous shaft drive into crap chain...

WHY??? :rolleyes:
To be fair, ignoring the maintenance aspect Chain drive is a seriously superior way to put engine power to the ground. Your average shaft drive motorcycle setup robs 18-24% of the power before it gets to the ground, Chain only soaks up 3-5%. That’s why there are no drag motorcycles with shaft drive.
 
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My answer would be, why not buy a bike with a chain drive?

This is like trying to power up a 750 to a 1100. Just buy a different bike.

To me it's like this. I want an off road Mustang so you go buy a Jeep and use it's 4 wheel drive. You have to to attach the Jeep to the Mustang engine etc. etc. Why???
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You would also need to re-machine the transmission area to convert the right angle shaft drive to a transmission with an output shaft for the front sprocket as well as re-designing the swing arm and a new rear wheel.... It could be done, with enough money and time, Remember, the proper question is not can it be done? It's How much will it cost in time and money to do it.? I'd suspect it'll be more than the price of a new bike... What is it you're riding that you want to do this on?
I
You would also need to re-machine the transmission area to convert the right angle shaft drive to a transmission with an output shaft for the front sprocket as well as re-designing the swing arm and a new rear wheel.... It could be done, with enough money and time, Remember, the proper question is not can it be done? It's How much will it cost in time and money to do it.? I'd suspect it'll be more than the price of a new bike... What is it you're riding that you want to do this on?
I need that 15% of lost power on my 2005 vt1100c2 sabre I just don't like the way other bikes feel compared to it
 

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Are you sure it's running properly? A bad carb diaphram can give you fits with running rough at higher rpms, engine vibrations at highway speeds, low power. low mileage. Just changed them on my 2000 and now realize they'd been going bad for a while. Hard to tell without mercury sticks or pulling the carbs and looking. With one bad diaphram, you can sync them at idle and they'll be way off at cruise rpm, 2 bad diaphrams - I don't know. but would have shortly, 2nd one had spots about to go. Some never check them above idle when syncing. it's only 2 years newer than mine,,,

Two new diaphrams and mine has both carbs identical when revving it, mercury rises and falls the same. Mileage went back up to 41 from the 35 or 36 I'd been getting. And the handlebar vibrations are way less now. Heck, I knew something wasn't quite right and rode it to south dakota and back like that anyway. (still kicking myself,,,)

All that said, it's still a cruiser. pretty much any 600cc sport bike will still walk away from it. Just be sure it's running like it is supposed to before doing anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Are you sure it's running properly? A bad carb diaphram can give you fits with running rough at higher rpms, engine vibrations at highway speeds, low power. low mileage. Just changed them on my 2000 and now realize they'd been going bad for a while. Hard to tell without mercury sticks or pulling the carbs and looking. With one bad diaphram, you can sync them at idle and they'll be way off at cruise rpm, 2 bad diaphrams - I don't know. but would have shortly, 2nd one had spots about to go. Some never check them above idle when syncing. it's only 2 years newer than mine,,,

Two new diaphrams and mine has both carbs identical when revving it, mercury rises and falls the same. Mileage went back up to 41 from the 35 or 36 I'd been getting. And the handlebar vibrations are way less now. Heck, I knew something wasn't quite right and rode it to south dakota and back like that anyway. (still kicking myself,,,)

All that said, it's still a cruiser. pretty much any 600cc sport bike will still walk away from it. Just be sure it's running like it is supposed to before doing anything else.
I'll pull my carbs again might as well check em while it's not running... Fuel pump went bad and had it started once since... Keeps throwing a fuse after 3-4 cranks any ideas idk if the pump was done right. Didn't come with the arrows or standard wires...
 

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Pretty easy to test, there's a fuel cut relay that ensures the pump quits if the motor dies. 3 wires - black, black-blue and yellow-blue. Under the seat or the right side cover usually. unplug it, jumper black (12v) to black-blue (power to pump) in the harness plug, half a paperclip works ok. Pump should make clicking noises (oem pulse type pumps) when key is turned on and shut off when floats shut off fuel flow, There's a spec in the shop manual for testing, jumper it, disconnect fuel line and route into a container, turn on key for x number of seconds and measure output. Sorry, can't remember how many seconds, still on 1st cup of coffee...
 

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And if the pump wasn't a direct replacement, it is a suspect for blowing the fuse. Try unplugging the relay and cranking it the same way. See if the fuse still blows. And these are only supposed to be cranked something like 10 seconds at a time and wait something like at least 30 seconds between cranks.

Also try it with the relay jumpered to be sure the relay isn't bad and stopping the pump.

We're all assuming it has fuel...

And the reason I ask is I was troubleshooting a customer's son-in-law's Bronco, died and had to be towed home, he worked on it for a few weeks, I kept making suggestions, determined no fuel pressure, still couldn't get fuel to flow, pump in the tank. When he dropped the tank, he thinks this is pretty light... It was out of gas, and the irony is it died at a gas station where they stopped for drinks.
 
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