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I don't like sealers, there's the cost and it's not infrequent that the stuff fails and causes just as many or more issues than the rust.

When I internally de-rusted the tank on my '96 1100 ACE, I started with cleaning, then used Evaporust to get most of it, then cleaning, then used dilute Phosphoric acid, then cleaned, then DRIED. This is considerably more complicated and expensive than vinegar, but the special thing that phosphoric does, that other acids don't do, is to convert iron oxide into iron phosphate.

Iron phosphate, the black coating one sees on industrial hardware items like drywall screws, is inherently more resistant to re-corrosion than bare steel. This lets me leave a bare steel (gray iron phosphate) surface inside the tank without worrying about the rust coming back.


I also use this stuff for various restoration/prep projects. Iron phosphate takes paint or even solder, or I can just wax over the surface if I want a "patina" look. I don't like the sight of red rust.

An acid cleaned surface can re-oxidize in a matter of minutes. Gotta get the acid ions out and the surface dried quickly. I used moderate heat and an air mattress inflator tube to push dry air into the tank to dry it out as quickly as possible.

That 1100 tank had a LOT of internal welded structure. Lots of places for crud to hide and promote corrosion, or prevent proper adhesion of a sealer. That structure also interfered with retrieving my scrubbing media, a bunch of square 1/4-20 nuts with sharp edges, but I prevailed.
 
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