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Discussion Starter #1
Alright ya'll I got a probably obvious to you guys, but hard to snag doozy on my hands here.
Just did a clutch rebuild Plates and Springs on my '02 A.C.E. 750 cause I figured after 60k miles it was in dire need of it.
But even after paying super close attention to how everything goes back together via the manual, making sure all of the steel plates were facing the same direction, offsetting the Type B Disc with the judder spring in the right orientation and putting every washer properly together.. I can't seem to get the clutch lever to pull any further than maybe 10*? It's as if there's a massive force stopping it from going any further, I checked the lever and it works perfectly fine without it on the crankcase, but when everything is put together I can't even get enough freeplay to put the clutch cable on.

I put a picture of how far max it'll go no matter HOW hard I push it.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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That is weird.
My guess and it is just that, is the lifter piece wasn't lined up with the cam slot on the lifter arm when the cover went on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is weird.
My guess and it is just that, is the lifter piece wasn't lined up with the cam slot on the lifter arm when the cover went on.
I thought that too originally, but I took everything apart several times to try to remedy this, but no matter how many times I take things apart and try to realign.. it doesn't seem to wanna work proper
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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OK my next guess, the tangs on the clutch outer are not engaged with the slots in the oil pump drive gear and it is sitting out too far.
My one after that is do a plate count, too much stuff and it has no room to disengage beyond that I'm at a loss of what it could be.
It has to be something simple, other than the Honda strangeness of having the pressure plate on the back not the front it is a pretty common multi-plate clutch type.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright, now there's another potential issue that's popped up lmao.

I put everything back together (after getting an exhaust gasket online finally.)
And now it's making this whack noise

also please excuse the complete wreck that my garage is in lmao.
We've been moving things around and my tools being all over the place doesn't help.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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If you mean the noise as soon as the engine stops on the left side,that is OK, as it is the starter one-way clutch spinning as it stops.
The other ticking is something else. Try to pinpoint that with a stethoscope of piece of hose held up to your ear to find the source.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you mean the noise as soon as the engine stops on the left side,that is OK, as it is the starter one-way clutch spinning as it stops.
The other ticking is something else. Try to pinpoint that with a stethoscope of piece of hose held up to your ear to find the source.
I put my ear up to the crankcase and it seems to be coming from there, but I followed everything according to the manual when it comes to putting it back together and specs,so i'm just plain confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, after going through and putting a stethoscope to things, It def sounds like it's coming from the crankcase..

Is that sound possibly the clutch plates breaking in with the new springs??
It sounds like a grinding noise, I haven't figured out my cable adjustment completely, could it also be that??
 

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It should not be from the clutch plates because they are under pressure until you pull the clutch lever.
Does it change when you pull the lever?
Does it change when you pull the clutch and put it in gear?
Did you have any issue with the gear teeth?
If the cable is operating the clutch I doubt it is from that.
Can you feel it in the lever when you pull it slowly and the vibration is transferring up the cable?
The lever on the bars or the small release lever down below.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It should not be from the clutch plates because they are under pressure until you pull the clutch lever.
Does it change when you pull the lever?
Does it change when you pull the clutch and put it in gear?
Did you have any issue with the gear teeth?
If the cable is operating the clutch I doubt it is from that.
Can you feel it in the lever when you pull it slowly and the vibration is transferring up the cable?
The lever on the bars or the small release lever down below.
I kept it mainly in Neutral. But now that I tried to put it in first, I figured out that it keeps lurching forward while trying to start it.
That's with the cable adjusted and the clutch fulled pulled it, to the point where it "bottoms" out.

So I think something is wrong here. Time to take it apart.

Again.

For the 5th time lmao.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the weird thing is..

I followed exactly the instructions on the ACE manual for installing my clutch, not just once but TWICE and it's still having issues?
The only thing i've been confused about is 2 washers.
Idk why we need one behind the basket, AND under the mainshaft nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It should not be from the clutch plates because they are under pressure until you pull the clutch lever.
Does it change when you pull the lever?
Does it change when you pull the clutch and put it in gear?
Did you have any issue with the gear teeth?
If the cable is operating the clutch I doubt it is from that.
Can you feel it in the lever when you pull it slowly and the vibration is transferring up the cable?
The lever on the bars or the small release lever down below.
This ****ing post right here just saved my ass Swifty.
You're a god amongst men you know that? LOL

Just a guess but there are alignment tabs on the back side of the basket for the oil pump drive that may have not aligned with the piece behind it and it may hold it out to far. That is if you put everything back in the correct stack position and didn't add plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay, now the lever is limp up till it hits it's "Limit"
then it goes from Limp to impossible to pull any further.

Why has a simple clutch change turned into the biggest nightmare?
 

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Curious, did you soak the new clutch disks in motor oil overnight before assembly?
 

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another thought, will the clutch cable itself slide freely the full length of travel when not connected at either end? If some strands have worn and broken in the cable, they will dig in to the lining and cause all kinds of strange issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
another thought, will the clutch cable itself slide freely the full length of travel when not connected at either end? If some strands have worn and broken in the cable, they will dig in to the lining and cause all kinds of strange issues.
Yes to both of those, The cable was working just fine prior to opening it the first time; These are photos of the clutch, it seems that everything looks correct and installed, but SOMETHING is just not clicking right and I have no idea what yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
1579180073977.png


According to the Manual, there's not supposed to be a second washer, but according to the Bike Bandit diagram there is???
I've followed the assembly here almost exactly (I'm reusing the "out side" Washer).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I ordered a new clutch lock nut instead of using the one from Oreilly's I got.
Cause it looks like the stake nut's lip actuates with the bottom of the throw bearing and allows everything to connect at once.
 

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you might be on to something.
 
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