[journey]

I have a 2007 Honda VT750C shadow aero.

I am overdue for coolant flush and change. I bought a aftermarket repair book that is helpful in many ways but the info I see on the coolant flush is minimal . It refers to gas tank removal, speedometer removal, various other steps before the flush process. I went to Youtube to see if any info would help and I cant seem to find anything detailed.

Does any one know of any detailed instructions on this? If its not necessary to remove the speedomter(tank mounted) and the tank, it would seem a little less confusing.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

 

[smilie]

I have a 2007 Honda VT750C shadow aero.

I am overdue for coolant flush and change. I bought a aftermarket repair book that is helpful in many ways but the info I see on the coolant flush is minimal . It refers to gas tank removal, speedometer removal, various other steps before the flush process. I went to Youtube to see if any info would help and I cant seem to find anything detailed.

Does any one know of any detailed instructions on this? If its not necessary to remove the speedomter(tank mounted) and the tank, it would seem a little less confusing.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

Follow your manual. There's usually a reason for the removal of the peripheral parts. (Like, "do I leave the speedo and tank hang by wires and fuel line, or do you think they'd get f***** up?) Follow the manual, that's what it's for.

 

[gdb069]

Most manuals discuss tank removal, however on many models you can simply remove the tank bolts and slide the tank back. All you are doing is trying to have good access to the rad cap and of course not ruin the tank. also a "flush" is not required. Just drain the rad, the reserve and add new coolant.

G.

 

[balloonot]

I agree with Smilie and GD. Let me explain.

Smilie's view is one that my OCD tells me to do. Only because there is a reason they tell you to remove the tank. I totally agree with that.

GDs view...Is the mechanic in me. Removing the tank as instructed will let you know what you can get away with when you go back in 3-5 years and do another flush.

Meaning if you have never worked on this particular model then I would follow Smillies advise. Only because this will help you learn the "CORRECT" way first.

Then once you are experienced with this job, GDs point comes into play. Meaning you will know what steps you can skip. Both of my fellow members are correct in their advise, imo.

Just my opinion.

 

[h13man]

Most manuals discuss tank removal, however on many models you can simply remove the tank bolts and slide the tank back. All you are doing is trying to have good access to the rad cap and of course not ruin the tank. also a "flush" is not required. Just drain the rad, the reserve and add new coolant.

G.

And "burp" as the manual should explain but if it isn't an OEM manual that step might be left out thus why most of us older members have learned the hard way and thus we use OEM manuals.

 

[7xclm]

In time you will learn all the ins and outs with your bike as you tinker with her.

 

[GB6049]

You have to remove the tank to safely and easily access the radiator cap. In order to remove the tank, you need to remove the speedometer from the top of the tank. Of course you need to set the tank back on to run the engine and "burp" it to remove the trapped air to prevent an airlock that will lead to the coolant not flowing and thus overheat the engine.

 

[balloonot]

If you have small ratchet straps, you can suspend the gas tank to hover over the bike while you burp it. Only takes 1 or 2; 3 & 5 grand revs to burp it.

Use bycycle hook in the ceiling if its sheet-rocked.

 

[journey]

The threads on what appeared to be the drain bolt were stripped so I ordered a new bolt and it was advised to get 2 bolts. According to the parts diagram it is one longer and one shorter bolt on the waterpump that drain this. I am confused as to WHY 2 bolts would be needed removed to drain a radiator??? Anyone know firsthand from doing this routine on a 2007 VT750C Aero ?

 

[smilie]

Are you sure it's the bolt that's stripped and not the female end on the water pump? The pump housing is softer than the bolt. Done last time by someone w/out a torque wrench, apparently.

 

[journey]

Good question . I am not certain yet, but if time permits tomorrow, I will find out more. I was hoping to find out from a member in the know if its only one bolt or 2 bolts that need removed for coolant change.

 

[smilie]

Are you running out of a manual or flying by the seat of your pants? I'm guessing the latter considering your question.

 

[bldrums]

I just changed the coolant on my 04 Sabre 1100 today ( my first time ). Biggest issue I had was once I removed the drain plug from the WP it began to slowly trickle coolant. I checked the OEM Shop Manual to be sure I had removed the correct bolt. There are 2 identical 10 mm bolts on the bottom of the pump. Of course they they indicated to remove the hardest to see ( the right one ) which lined up almost behind the KS.
OK here is the part that may or may not help you. I slowly opened the radiator cap ( cold engine ) until suddenly the coolant shot out past the pan it was supposed to drain into and all over the floor. Fortunately I had placed big sheets of cardboard under the bike and it absorbed most all of it.