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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
Last winter was my first time winterizing my motorcycle. The people here gave great suggesstions and incredible responses that helped me winterize my motorcycle properly.
Now as weather is getting warmer I am going to de-winterize my motorcycle. Please provide me detailed steps on what i need to make sure i do. Mine is a shaft drive honda shadow phantom 2012.

Here are some things that I have gathered:

1) wash the motorcycle properly and clean it
2) Remove the cloth that used to cover the exhaust
3) change the oil and oil filter
4)Check air pressure of tires and brakes
5) reinstall battery

Questions:
1) I used Fogging oil on the engine and metallic parts last time. What do I need to do for that ? anything special? (what is gunk degreaser)?
2) I used fuel stabilizer and had my tank all full before storing. Can i ride my motorcycle on that same fuel or do I need to empty the tank. If i need to empty the tank how do i do it?
3) what other steps do i need to do. Its fuel injected and shaft drive not chain drive so there is no carbuerator and chain to worry about right.

Thanks for help.
 

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Sounds like you're on the right track, and I'm sure others will chime in here as well, but regarding your fuel: it's fine to run as is. That's why you put stabilizer in last fall in the first place, to keep your gas good for the spring ride. And something I'm not always good at doing: it seems from various postings I've read on here, many recommend changing oil before storing the bike for the winter. One poster gave very good reasoning from a mechanic at one point for doing this, but changing oil in the spring isn't the worst way to go either...it's the route I'm stuck with this spring myself.
 

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2001 Valkyrie I/S
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I wouldn't use gunk and there's no reason to use any fogging oil if you're just storing for the winter. I change the oil in the fall before storing, fill the tank and add fuel stablizer and run the carbs dry then once and a while hook up my battery maintainer. For my son's Bolt which is FI I do the same except i don't have to run the carb dry.
 

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I have been doing this for many, many years. For 3-5 month storage you do not need to go crazy. The nice thing about my procedure is that it is front end loaded so one it gets warm it only takes 15 minutes to get the bike ready to ride in the spring.


Winterizing procedure:

1. take bike to gas station, put gas/ethanol stabilizer in tank and top off
2. ride bike home (go at least 5 miles) and top off with fuel again
3. clean and lube chain
4. change oil and filter
5. remove battery and put in warm place
6. wash/clean bike
7. spray WD-40 in exhaust and cover outlets (to keep moisture and critters out)
8. put max rated pressure in both tires
9. store bike in garage with wheels off floor or on cardboard and cover with bed-sheets
10. Check battery voltage once a month and charge if needed.


In the spring:

1. remove sheets
2. remove exhaust plugs
3. adjust tire pressure
4. install warm freshly charged battery
5. ride
 

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I have been doing this for many, many years. For 3-5 month storage you do not need to go crazy. The nice thing about my procedure is that it is front end loaded so one it gets warm it only takes 15 minutes to get the bike ready to ride in the spring.


Winterizing procedure:

1. take bike to gas station, put gas/ethanol stabilizer in tank and top off
2. ride bike home (go at least 5 miles) and top off with fuel again
3. clean and lube chain
4. change oil and filter
5. remove battery and put in warm place
6. wash/clean bike
7. spray WD-40 in exhaust and cover outlets (to keep moisture and critters out)
8. put max rated pressure in both tires
9. store bike in garage with wheels off floor or on cardboard and cover with bed-sheets
10. Check battery voltage once a month and charge if needed.


In the spring:

1. remove sheets
2. remove exhaust plugs
3. adjust tire pressure
4. install warm freshly charged battery
5. ride
That's basically what I do on my Phantom. I did the oil change in the fall so I had less to do in the spring :) she fired up no problem at all. I also do a once over and tighten the cables, check all the fluids etc before rolling out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys fro awesome responses... One extra question. On my exhaust pipe there are these black stains that is stuck so hard. If I use a sharp object like knife to scrape it off, it does come off but i dont want to do that. What can i buy and spray on this thing that will help get it off the steel pipes?

Thanks
 

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Yes, always change oil and gear oil before storage, then in the spring just check the tires and add air, check oil, clean and ride. No need to change oil in fall and then again in spring, just not environmentally friendly and a waste of $.

Dingo.
 

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People say check your fluids and liquids?
What fluid and liquids besides oil change? I am really confused where are these fluids and how to check them
Engine oil. Check on the dipstick, or sight glass on bikes so equipped.

Final drive lube, on shaft driven scooter's. Check at the fill hole on the final drive hub....left side of machine.

Coolant, on liquid cooled engines. Check by examining the see thru reservoir, usually located behind the engine or under the seat, depending on the exact bike model.

Brake fluid. Check at the reservoir sight glass on the handlebars on the front brake lever perch....and down by the rear brake pedal on rear disc brake equipped bikes.

Clutch fluid on hydraulic clutch sleds. Check at the reservoir sight glass on the clutch lever perch on the handlebars
 

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I am a bit confused: You mentioned last July that you got a manual and most of this info is available in the manual. You mentioned last July you changed the oil and then again when you winterized in October. You certainly don't need to change it again now AND I would just stick to the recommended oil change interval in the manual rather than as part of winterizing unless the time/mileage is close to the winterizing. In my case I have low yearly mileage so change the oil once a year as I winterize. Since this is your first time doing basic service I would suggest you go to Honda and they can supply all the correct consumables you need at one time.
Air filter
Coolant
maybe Brake fluid
a few drain plug crush washers for next oil changes

Once you have more experience you will be able to make informed brand choices.

G.
 
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