Honda Shadow Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was in the process of cranking my bike the other day, I heard a sizzle, a pop, and the bike went dead. No power. I checked all the fuses. NO problems there. I took the starter relay off and had it checked by a mechanic. It was toast!! I got a new one put it on and still nothing. What should I check next???
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,531 Posts
I checked that fuse too. It was also part of the starter relay exchange. The battery is fine. It is a 2004 Shadow Sabre.
Have you ruled out the starter? If you're getting voltage at the starter (when you push the button) and it's not cranking you need to take a look at the starter......

Phil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your help Phil,

I can't check the starter yet, because there is no power. When I turn the key nothing happens. I have used my volt meter to check the ignition, the kill switch, and a few of the other main components. I going to have the regulator/rectifer checked tomorrow, and posibally the Ignition Control Module. The ignition switch checks out for current, but, like I said, right now it is a dead stick. I get no lights, gauges, or anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,257 Posts
Thanks for your help Phil,

I can't check the starter yet, because there is no power. When I turn the key nothing happens. I have used my volt meter to check the ignition, the kill switch, and a few of the other main components. I going to have the regulator/rectifer checked tomorrow, and posibally the Ignition Control Module. The ignition switch checks out for current, but, like I said, right now it is a dead stick. I get no lights, gauges, or anything.
If you have nothing you have a bad battery connection, ignition switch, blown fuse or fuses, possibly a bad ground.
do you know how to do a voltage drop test? that will check for high resistence/ poor connections poss/neg batt cables and anything else you want to check for poor connection or high resistence.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,352 Posts
someone can shoot me down if I'm wrong but you have a thick wire that goes straight from the positive lead on your battery straight to the starter solenoid (starter magnetic switch) and from there another thick wire goes straight to your starter motor..simply link those two wires and the starter will crank if it is ok, you don't even need the ignition on..If you can't find the starter solenoid run a thick wire from the battery to the starter motor..if the motor is seized the wire will get hot fast, if the motor is open circuit the engine won't crank.

John.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,257 Posts
someone can shoot me down if I'm wrong but you have a thick wire that goes straight from the positive lead on your battery straight to the starter solenoid (starter magnetic switch) and from there another thick wire goes straight to your starter motor..simply link those two wires and the starter will crank if it is ok, you don't even need the ignition on..If you can't find the starter solenoid run a thick wire from the battery to the starter motor..if the motor is seized the wire will get hot fast, if the motor is open circuit the engine won't crank.

John.
You are correct, I've done stuff like that B4 but use large needle nose to jump the terminals.
And if the motor cranks your problem lies elsewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
You can do the quick starter test as suggested to rule out any starter motor trouble. You already said you have power at your ignition switch? Ok, I would check the battery connections to start with anyhow just to rule out any problem there, always a good thing. But then you need to chase it from your ignition switch cause it sounds like that is where the weak link starts. Check all fuses, but you said you have, cause you say you have no lights no nothing so the main power that feeds from the switch to your fuse panel something there maybe, I do not know have no schematic but is logical, from the switch I am sure is where you will be getting power to feed everything like power for your lights, starter switch, etc.
You said you have power to the ignition switch but not out of it? is this correct? If you do are any of these wires burnt coming out of the switch going to like the starter solenoid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Then if you have power coming out of your ignition switch to your fuses then check your 10 amp fuse for your ignition, if that is good then you need to see if you have power to your starter/ignition switches if you do then maybe a problem there, if not then a problem before there. but since you have no lights and such I believe your problem lies from the ignition switch to the fuse box or the fuse box or fuse themselves or the ignition switch itself and if that is the case you could just jump it to diagnose. I can't find your wiring schematic but I used another that should be close. But then again this over the internet and all is according to descriptions so anyones guess.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top