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Discussion Starter #1
It looks like time to replace my drive chain and I have a few questions:
What pitch and link # should I get
Whats a good type of chain? I want something strong and long lasting but I am obviously not a street racer!
I do not want to remove the rear wheel. Can I use a chain breaker to remove the chain?
I have seen 2 types of master links rivet and clip. Which is best? The rivet type appears to need a tool to replace.
As always thanks for everyones help and input!
 

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If memory serves me, the pitch is 525, 120 link (cut to proper length).
When I replaced mine two summers ago I changed sprockets at the same time. I went with a 41T rear and stock front. I think I spent a little over $100 for the package.

If you have a way to secure the bike with the wheel off the ground it is very easy to remove.

I used a Dremel and cut off wheel to remove the chain, and the same to cut off the extra links of the new chain.

As far as master links, I originally asked my local shop where I buy all my stuff for a clip type. I figured if a clip type holds up on the dirt bikes of today, the 30 or so HP of the Mighty VLX should be no problem. Even with the clip style you may still need to shorten the chain by a link or two.

So when I pick up the chain set it has the rivet type master link. He let me borrow his link tool overnight to get the chain replaced.

I would check the spockets to make sure there is no wear before installing a new chain on worn sprockets. Conventional wisdom says the worn sprockets will wreck the new chain pretty quickly.
 

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I recently did mine myself on my '03 750 Spirit and I'm a newbie to bikes. I've worked a lot on my own cars plenty over the years, but this is my first bike and NC House of Motorcycles (I'm also located in Oceanside) wanted like $500 for parts and labor! So, I figured this was one more job I was gonna have to learn how to do. I shopped a lot of places and ended up finding a nice deal on ebay for like $100 shipped, including front and rear sprockets- best deal I'd found by far, everything was brand new and the deal was legit.

Key thing on chains is just to make sure it has a high tensile strength and you might as well do new sprockets at the same time- it just makes sense. To break the old chain I just used a good pair or wire cutters, borrowed them from a neighbor who's an electrician- cut through it like butter in just a few seconds. I also didn't want to have to remove my rear wheel, but there was no way around it if you're doing chain and sporckets. But, it wasn't that big of a deal, I jacked up the bike with my car jack and kept it secured with standard car jack stands.
 

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Wire cutters? Are you serious? Those must have been some pretty heavy duty wire cutters man.:shock: If the bike and chain manufacturers specify a riveted link there's probably a good reason. Losing a chain on a dirt bike is not exactly like losing a chain on a VLX going down the asphalt at 90 miles an hour. I put a D.I.D. X ring on my VLX two years ago and I seriously don't think that chain is ever going to wear out. I've only had to adjust it one time.
 

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I've hit 90+ on my 1998 dual carb VLX. Didn't hold it for long and I'm not saying I believed the speedometer, but that’s what it read.
 

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I use an O ring chain on my vlx and use a regular clip master link. The trick here is to make sure to get one built for that chain. Just because it is a 525 chain they are different. It is a bit harder to install than the old non O ring dirt bike chains as you have to put the O rings on the link and then compress them enough to get the clip on. Make sure to put the clip on the right direction. Open end of the clip should face rear on the top run of chain.
 

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If you borrowed a tool from me that was designed to cut copper wire and used it to cut a steel chain you would never borrow any of my tools again. And I have never had any problem getting a VLX up to 90 plus (indicated). If your VLX won't do at least 90 then there's something wrong with it.
 
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