[TGR-MAVERICK]

I know it's a dead thread, but has anyone fixed this issue? I'm having the same and it's driving me nuts.

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

JPR, 2013 shadow phantom, had the tires replaced around 5500 miles, now I've got 6500. After the tires were done I felt a resonance that would present from 20 to 30 mph, and 50 to 60. I took it back to the installer and he just dismissed me, said he felt it with the tire off the ground just spinning it by hand but that was that.

This past week I checked the oil in the final drive, had a little sparkles in it but no big chunks that sunk to the bottom, I decided to change it, put some Mobil synthetic in it, did fifteen miles, no real change, figured maybe it just needed more time.

A day later I hop on the interstate to travel seventy miles away, and by the time i get to the interstate, the vibration has gotten way worse, whole bike is shaking but I have to get where I'm going, just hoping it doesn't fall apart. I make it and make it seventy miles back home. I drained the oil and as far as I can tell the gear on the wheel looks good and I see no metal at all in the oil.

Ideas are much appreciated, I'm at wits end, I'll take it somewhere if I need to but I'd rather not.

Thanks.

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

Can you lift the whole bike and spin each tire and look for out of round? You may have a cord seperation if it is getting that much worse.
But is the vibration at wheel speed? If it is very rapid that could be the drive shaft since it turns about 3 to 4 times faster that the wheel speed, because of the gear ratio.
And when it is vibrating badly at speed did you try to pull the clutch in and let the engine slow down to feel the frame, suspension, wheel motion?
Just different ways to pin point a vibration source.

I was gonna look for out of round tomorrow, I work 70-80 hours a week and don't have much time to wrench. It sounded like bearings before, I've had bad bearings in my old van and it sounded the same, at the time I couldn't believe it would be that because of the low mileage, but now I'm wondering if that is the problem.

Pulling in the clutch calms it a little, definitely in the rear wheel, I stuck my hand on the housing. I think I'll find the speed when it's really bad and see if I can get my wife to take a video driving next to me or something... Maybe I'll be able to see something then.

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

Jacked the bike up, wife was rushing me so I forgot to check the tire, but spinning it by hand definitely sounds like bearings. I'm working on pulling up the service manual now to see if I'll need any special tools.

If it is bearings, I'm completely flabbergasted that they have failed in less than 6500 miles while looking at other threads where people are getting over 50k miles.

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

A hammer and a 12" piece of 1/2" round steel or aluminium (1st choice). Slip metal thru axle hole catching the inner race of bad bearing and tap one side then tap the other side alternating back and forth. If you get lucky like I did you'll will be able to reuse the seal. Save the old 6204 bearing for inserting new bearings. Grind down the OD of the 6204 on a belt/disc sander so it slides easily into the hub. On the side that faces the new bearing (press side) grind the inner race to alleviate any possible interferance with the new bearing. Set wheel in the sun to heat up good with the axle installed thru the spacer, bearing in the freezer for about an hour, and wait. A 3/4" washer over the old bearing is a good/safe "beating/pressing" surface over the drive side of old bearing if you using a hammer (lovingly) to insert bearing. After the heating/cooling process grab the bearing with a gloved hand and quickly install bearing into hub using the axle as your guide. With luck it should go into the bore enough to "press" the rest of the way with old bearing, washer, and hammer. Now if you have a arbor press available great if not a 16 oz. ballpien hammer is plenty. The hammer method is used ALOT in industry do where failure exist in industrial situations. Just use some finesse and only apply pressure on the OD of the bearing. The seal should slip in most the way then gently use same method to finish seating it. That done do the other side the same way making sure the spacer is always in assembly when going back together. Also another method is use "all threaded rod" and draw/press the bearing in but again be careful and not to apply any pressure to the inner race.
The 6204 is the outer bearing (non drive side). Don't forget to secure your caliper with a zip tie to avoid any mishap. A good NTH #6204-2RS bearing cost me $12 locally. On a note on bearing designation, the "UU" means the same as "2RS" which = two rubber seals. Now do you need anymore confusion? If so wait around somebody will step up!

>

You're awesome for typing all that up and seriously, thank you for all the insight into the job.

I think I'm gonna go pick up a bike lift, been looking for an excuse to get one...

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

Is there a recall on that driveshaft?

Over in this thread a guy reports a dealer wants to change his driveshaft after only 8,000 miles.

That is an interesting thread, but I didn't see anything other than the bank angle sensor over on the DOT GOV...

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

I worked on cars for years and always got suspicious when a customer said "I just had a tune up", or something similar, and their car was doing something unusual now.
So I would start by going over the previous work to see if that was the cause, and many times it sure was. I can't believe it either that a bearing would go bad suddenly and just 1000 miles since a tire replacement. Things may not have been put together back there correctly when it was apart. Maybe killed a bearing!
I AM SUSPICIOUS !!!

I only noticed it after I had work done and I'm still convinced it was something the previous wrench did, I mean hell, the front axle wasn't even fully seated when I picked it up.

Good times. Just another reason to do sh*t yourself, that way you can only be pissed at yourself.


Went back and jacked up the rear again and spun the wheel, tire isn't out of round.

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

So, the wheel is off and the bearings feel perfect. I'm at a loss, I guess it would have to be in the shaft?

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

When the tire work was done was the rear diff bolts removed or the assembly taken off for some reason? If not I can't see how it would suddenly be a problem.
But make sure the previous tech has put all the spacers and washers in the correct place.
And you can put the axle through the bearings and put one end on the edge of a bench or in a vice, and hold the other end of the shaft, and spin the wheel by hand. Then you can feel the smoothness of the bearings while they have some weight on them as a double check. Also roll the axle on a table top to see if it got bent.

The previous tech had no reason to pull the diff, so I don't imagine he would've... however it is something I only noticed after he replaced the tire.

Changing the oil to a full synthetic made it way worse.

I pulled the diff and driveshaft and when aligned properly it is smooth when rotated by hand, but if it is misaligned I can feel what I seem to be feeling on the bike at any speed. I don't see how it would be misaligned in the tube though.

I started it with the rear wheel off, diff installed and still felt it. Yes, I know, abnormal testing conditions as there is no load but still told me something.

I can try the axle and bearing table top thing.

 

[TGR-MAVERICK]

This thread was started back in May and the bike isn't still fixed?

I was mainly ignoring it, as I was informed by a dismissive wrench that it was fine and as it wasn't getting worse.

Then it got worse a thousand miles later and now I'm actively trying to fix it.