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99' Valkyrie/North Central Indiana
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I just got done pulling the rear wheel on the Valk to chase a similar problem but I got to mine before catastrophe struck. I found a bad wheel bearing. Now the minute vibration I felt was at speed (55-60 mph.) thus this told me it was a bearing or possibly ring gear isolators. The vibration didn't get worse but I put on the rear brake yesterday @ 60 mph. and the rotor/pad engagement started vibrating. If you have a rear wheel bearing failure to this extreme level hopefully it didn't damage the axle, wheel, etc. Bearing failure is more common due to China being maker even for some upper end manufactures. If this is the problem go to your local power motion supplier and buy a set of Japan made bearings. Its a concensus on the Valk forum that Honda OEM bearings suck and cost way more than GOOD off the street bearings.
 

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99' Valkyrie/North Central Indiana
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Bearings, #6204-2RS and #5204-2RS street sizes. These are the same as the Valkyries. Not trying upstage PhantomRider 64 but I got to go and buy mine tommorrow so the info is fresh and written down. :shock: :lol:
 

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99' Valkyrie/North Central Indiana
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Or just take the time to tear it apart and find out whats really going on before you destroy it any further. Guessing, speculating, procrastinating, etc. is going to fix the problem. Dig in! ;)
 

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99' Valkyrie/North Central Indiana
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A hammer and a 12" piece of 1/2" round steel or aluminium (1st choice). Slip metal thru axle hole catching the inner race of bad bearing and tap one side then tap the other side alternating back and forth. If you get lucky like I did you'll will be able to reuse the seal. Save the old 6204 bearing for inserting new bearings. Grind down the OD of the 6204 on a belt/disc sander so it slides easily into the hub. On the side that faces the new bearing (press side) grind the inner race to alleviate any possible interferance with the new bearing. Set wheel in the sun to heat up good with the axle installed thru the spacer, bearing in the freezer for about an hour, and wait. A 3/4" washer over the old bearing is a good/safe "beating/pressing" surface over the drive side of old bearing if you using a hammer (lovingly) to insert bearing. After the heating/cooling process grab the bearing with a gloved hand and quickly install bearing into hub using the axle as your guide. With luck it should go into the bore enough to "press" the rest of the way with old bearing, washer, and hammer. Now if you have a arbor press available great if not a 16 oz. ballpien hammer is plenty. The hammer method is used ALOT in industry do where failure exist in industrial situations. Just use some finesse and only apply pressure on the OD of the bearing. The seal should slip in most the way then gently use same method to finish seating it. That done do the other side the same way making sure the spacer is always in assembly when going back together. Also another method is use "all threaded rod" and draw/press the bearing in but again be careful and not to apply any pressure to the inner race.
The 6204 is the outer bearing (non drive side). Don't forget to secure your caliper with a zip tie to avoid any mishap. A good NTH #6204-2RS bearing cost me $12 locally. On a note on bearing designation, the "UU" means the same as "2RS" which = two rubber seals. Now do you need anymore confusion? If so wait around somebody will step up!

>:)
 

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99' Valkyrie/North Central Indiana
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Bearings may feel good but a complete removal of the rear tire is a must. I just went thru this same senario. It felt good in the swing arm but after a 1,000 mi. still didn't feel right and after complete removal the smaller bearing #62042RS inner race was shot. I put the axle in it and it wiggled around. I just replaced the one bearing but this winter I'm replacing all the wheel bearings front and rear. My bike 17 yrs. old and the seal on the bearings are subject to deteriation which what happened to rear.
 
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