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You've found the notorious p-connector a known trouble spot on all bikes regardless of brand. If you extract the terminals from their slots in the p-connector you'll find this .....

Or, maybe this ....

If electricity can't make it through that juncture your battery won't charge and it'll will gradually flat line your battery and maybe your wallet. Most owners snip off and solder the wires directly to each other eliminating the plastic connector all together. Others replace the corroded blade terminals and p-connector with new. I prefer the solder option, but that's doing things in a confined space. Btw, 15-volts might fry the electronics. Think that's the max volts for solid state thingies.

To test the stator you'd set your multimeter on AC volts. Red lead and Black lead to all the possible combinations of pairs of stator wires, p-connector disconnected, engine running, in neutral of course. AC reading should be approximately the same for all 'pairs' and AC should increase the same with higher rpm. 2nd Test, multimeter on the continuity setting (beeper). There should be no continuity between any of the stator wires and to Ground (frame). Both tests takes 2 minutes flat.
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