exhaust manifold stud

334 Views 19 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Mr Breeze, 2 d ago

MarkEmory

Discussion Starter · 7 d ago

4

I broke one of the exhaust manifold studs for the front pipe and warped the other. How should I remove these without causing more damage? I bought the new hardware already. Also the mount around the pipe that the bolts go through is warped. I got new ones but is it even possible to replace it? Attached are pictures.

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KFo

· #2 · 7 d ago

It's great to be cautious. I've seen too many guys try to drill and extract exhaust studs and end up ruining the head.

This is my favorite method to remove broken studs but it takes some equipment.

The longer stud should come out with heat, penetrating oil, patience, more heat, penetrating oil, patience, etc. Heat the stud, not the head, vice grips and try to turn a few degrees both ways. If it doesn't budge then apply more heat, penetrating oil, patience and try again tomorrow.

Reactions: 4

PhantomRider64

· #3 · 6 d ago

No need to worry about the studs,,,looks to like the head is scrap or needs the attention of a very talented welder. Or is that cutout area above the broken stud supposed to be there?

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MarkEmory

Discussion Starter · #4 · 6 d ago

PhantomRider64 said:
No need to worry about the studs,,,looks to like the head is scrap or needs the attention of a very talented welder. Or is that cutout area above the broken stud supposed to be there?

Yeah I was worried about that too but it looks and feels like it factory

jpr1968

· #5 · 6 d ago

MarkEmory said:
Yeah I was worried about that too but it looks and feels like it factory

It's not factory. A piece has definitely been broken off but it doesn't look like it would effect the exhaust pipe from sealing to the head.

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torinogt

· #6 · 6 d ago

The half moon piece you’re referring is as cast from the factory

MarkEmory

Discussion Starter · #7 · 6 d ago

torinogt said:
The half moon piece you’re referring is as cast from the factory

So it is factory right?

CSRoad

· #8 · 6 d ago

MarkEmory said:
So it is factory right?

Yeah they come like that, I did research, when I found mine had a bite mark, that's back when I used to worry.
That stud I'd try grabbing it with real Vise Grips and give it a twist.
If that doesn't work I'd slot it, spray it with penetrating oil and hit it with my manual impact driver.

MarkEmory

Discussion Starter · #9 · 6 d ago

CSRoad said:
Yeah they come like that, I did research, when I found mine had a bite mark, that's back when I used to worry.
That stud I'd try grabbing it with real Vise Grips and give it a twist.
If that doesn't work I'd slot it, spray it with penetrating oil and hit it with my manual impact driver.

What do you mean by slot it?

swifty2014

· #10 · 6 d ago

If you can't get it out drill through to the same size hole, so you can put a bolt all the way through and grind a nut to fit on the back to hold it tight. It's not huge torque.

CSRoad

· #11 · 6 d ago

MarkEmory said:
What do you mean by slot it?

With a fine hacksaw or Dremel wheel, to make a screwdriver slot.

MarkEmory

Discussion Starter · #12 · 6 d ago

CSRoad said:
With a fine hacksaw or Dremel wheel, to make a screwdriver slot.

You think slotting it for a flat head and using a impact would work and not just strip/break it more?

CSRoad

· #13 · 6 d ago

I think soaked with penetrating oil over night it will come free.
There is no tension on it any longer so you are just fighting corrosion.
For impacts I have an ancient Hozan and a cheap Tekton which ever one I find first.

ckahleer

· #14 · 6 d ago

Is there enough to grip it with a vicegrip or vampliers?

www.amazon.com

VAMPLIERS Best Pliers! VT-003-7EK SCREW EXTRAKTOR Most Affordable VamPLIERS for the DIY Guy, Especially Designed for rusted damage torx specialty Screw Removal, Screw Extraction Pliers - - Amazon.com

VAMPLIERS Best Pliers! VT-003-7EK SCREW EXTRAKTOR Most Affordable VamPLIERS for the DIY Guy, Especially Designed for rusted damage torx specialty Screw Removal, Screw Extraction Pliers - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

or a left hand die and nut.
If you end up drilling it out, make a drill template out of a a piece of plate steel held in place with the longer bolt.

oldguy

· #15 · 5 d ago (Edited)

I'd double-nut the non broken one, then use a wrench on the inner nut to loosen it. After the soaking etc mentioned earlier... The other one could be a problem. soak it with penetration oil etc also... If you drill into it, start with a small bit and be very careful to get it lined up exactly right to drill through the center of the stud. Go in crooked, and you could drill into the head... then use a left-hand bit to go larger either for an ez out size or other removal tool., the left-hand bit might heat it enough to loosen it, grab it and unscrew it by itself.. Or the external reverse spiral tapered removal sockets like these may be the thing to try 1st:

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: ROCKETSOCKET | 13 Piece Impact Grade Extraction Socket Set | Made in USA | ⅜” Drive | Remove stripped, frozen, rounded-off Bolts, Nuts & Screws : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: ROCKETSOCKET | 13 Piece Impact Grade Extraction Socket Set | Made in USA | ⅜” Drive | Remove stripped, frozen, rounded-off Bolts, Nuts & Screws : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Note: The cheap chinese versions may not work as well...

Edit: a drill guide is a good idea if it comes to that. And my Irwin brand set of the above sockets does not go small enough for the 8mm stud. Had to use them a couple times now, they worked.

Edit: use the sockets with your cordless impact driver

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MarkEmory

Discussion Starter · #16 · 4 d ago

I DID IT!

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I soaked it in WD-40 for 2 days then used a fat vise grip and a needle nose vise grip to get it off. It was a tight fit didn't think it would work but I managed.

Reactions: 5

Mr Breeze

· #17 · 4 d ago

Glad you used the advice and made it work out to your advantage. It's always helps slowing down and thinking it through,taking your time will save time in the end. There are so many ways to get a good out come on jobs like this. I have used left hand drill bits and backed some out. Added a nut over the stud and welded it to the stud the heat from the weld really helps to free it up. If they are long enough some heat and stud extractors work. Last resort drill it out and install a heil coil. Biggest thing is take your time a panic rush and things turn into a mess.

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Troy Jollimore

· #18 · 3 d ago

More ways to go is to use an impact gun or driver on it somehow to try ‘breaking’ it free. Or using a torch to heat up the area around the stud (hard, because the aluminum head is designed to absorb heat) and hitting the stud with a can of ‘liquid cold’ (compressed CO2). The aluminum expands and the steel stud contracts a little, making a difference.

h13man

· #19 · 3 d ago

Now that you have it out, I suggest using anti seize on the threads before installing new stud. Stainless steel hardware would be advisable thus eliminating most future corrosion. And no Loctite isn't heat proof either.

Reactions: 1

Mr Breeze

· #20 · 2 d ago

I like the adding of anti seize, it will help for sure. The stainless hardware may work out on motorcycle use, on the automotive side I see them broken at manifold to heads. They are much harder and seem to break over flexing. If you need to drill them out cobalt bits and time drilling is needed. But they ( do not ) seem to seize to the heads as bad as a normal steel bolts most of the time you can work them free and back them out.

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